Well, just got back from having the 390 checked in my 1966 F-100. Looks like it needs a total rebuild according to the engine guy. He said by the time he gets through fixing it up we might as well rebuild the whole thing. Our family knows him pretty well for many years so I don't think he would intentionally rip us off. He said he could do it for $2,500.

I know this kind of question is loaded with unknowns but do y'all think that's a fair price? We're in north Alabama so it's not exactly a high cost of living area. Does anybody have a recommendation in this area to get another quote?

Thanks a ton!

 

Seems high to me but ive always pulled my own motor and had a shop only do the machining and assembly of the short block. You can buy a kit online for $700 that comes with everything including freeze plugs, timing set, and a comp cam. If hes doing the heads also he is in the ball park. I would also set side a couple hundred for unseen problems.

 

Well honestly 2500 is not a bad price when you consider the fact that you may need to have a lot of machining. Which is very expensive, and time consuming, you will also want to consider whatever other mods you would like to do at the same time.
for the about the same price you can buy a new engine with a spiced up top end that would do you good, and that also comes with a 7 year warranty. but that would be my opinion.

 

If you are gonna drive it to him, have him do all the work, then drive it away $2500.00 is not out of line at all. IMHO





John

 

Seems good to me. As perspective when I had my 289 completely rebuilt in 1986 with all the parts (not including heads as I took care of them separately) and all the machine work the cost was $1800.

Also, for more perspective, I have looked into a Eagle stroker kit for my Mopar 360. A kit costs $1180 which includes 8 I beam rods, new crank, pistons, rings and bearings. That is a pretty good price as reconditioning rods could be close to $250 and the new rods are just over $288. Same goes for going over an old crank especially a 360 crank.

 

I own my own engine machine shop and 2500 isn't out of line. Ask him what 2500 gets you besides rebuilding the short block. Also ask him if that's rebuilding the heads? If that's rebuilding the short block and rebuilding the heads....

 

Thanks a bunch, guys. I really appreciate the input. Sounds like he's in the ballpark. I'm gonna take it to someone else just to get a second opinion but it looks like I'll be going down the rebuild road. I guess the good news is that I figured this would have to be done at some point.

 

I always like to stick my nose into things when I'm not doing the work. If you have it pulled apart, stop on by and look at the condition of the insides before he proceeds. This will also give you a chance to see what the crank looks like, verify it is a 390 and what-not and what the cam was. I would also pick his brain as to what he plans to do to upgrade the performance during the build, then when it's ready to go back together, stop on by and check his progress.

Sorry SixtySix, I'm one of those customers....
--Mike

 

Why are you sorry Mike? I always invite my customers over to see what they are paying for...... Its their hard earned money not mine. I also offer shop time for those who want to help building their engine.

 

Hello , new to the forum. My name is James. I have been going around to different sites trying to find info and keep coming back to this site so I signed up.
I just bought a 66 off of ebay for $310 it definitely does not run but it does turn by hand pretty easily.

I was looking at codes. the data plate say 171hp
The head code is C1AE-6090A I determined them to be low riser ? They have Thunderbird valve covers.
Block is C3AE-8015E I suppose it's a 352. I have not checked the stroke yet.

I was going to do a stroked 390 from survival motorsports but I think I want to get it running sooner than saving up for all the trick stuff.
I pulled a valve cover , it's got sludge pretty bad. I guess I should pull it as opposed to building it in frame to hot tank it.

 

Congrats on your purchase. I would try and get that thing running, but make sure your brakes work first. Mine was not running and all sludged up when I bought it from a farmer. It was up and running within a couple of days. Come to find out, it came with a smoke screen option... It was fun to play before the tear down.
--Mike

 

Ok , thanks. maybe I'll try that. no brakes right now. I'm sure I could bleed them but it is likley the pistons are rotten.

 

This is extremely important to understand, because the definition of "rebuilt" varies wildly.

Rebuilt - Cleaned, new bearings, rings, valve job(which consists of what?), and a real nice paint job!

or

Rebuilt - Cleaned, crank fluxed and ground, bored cylinders, indexed block, line bored, new cam, cam bearings, lifters, new valve guides, valves, springs, and keepers, hardened valve seats installed. Honed w/ torque plates, etc, etc, etc.

Which engine would you rather have for $2500?

Find out, post his answer and we'll have a better idea. I had $1,800 in just my short block and I've been good friends with the shop owner for 20 years.

 

Hello. I haven't been here in a long time and I am sorry to revive such an old post but thought I could jump on this one.

I bought my husband a '64 Ford F250 with a 390 a year ago. We drove it 1500 miles before we broke down 20 miles from home on our way back from picking it up. Fuel was spewing out of the top of the carb. We eventually got it in for a carb re-build last week but the same thing happened. So... Long story short.. Had it towed to a machine shop and they pulled the engine apart yesterday. Said we pretty much need a complete re-build.

Here is what I gathered from our conversation this afternoon...
timing chain and gears, cam shaft and lifters all need replacing, cylander heads and exhaust manifolds need resurfacing, oil pan is full of debris and needs to be pulled so it can be cleaned and he can check out the gears...he needs to pull the engine and it's just shy of a total rebuild at this point...close to $3000 to do what needs to be done and he won't know everything until he can pull the motor later today.

I am going down to the shop to find out more. He seems trustworthy and has an open door policy so I can pop in at anytime. Been in business 45 years. Very good reviews.

So... Does $3k at this point seem like a fair deal? We are in San Diego.

Thank you very much for your reply.

 

Welcome to FTE

The engine has been swapped, it's from a car. The heads are from a 1961 Galaxie, the block casting number: C3AE-6015-E dates to 1963.

It could be a 352 or 390 from a Galaxie, or a 390 from a T-Bird. Both the 390 Galaxie & T-Bird used the same THUNDERBIRD valve covers, they were painted gold originally.

1958/64 FE engines were only installed in cars. The valve covers are rounded without holes for smog valve/oil cap, there's an oil fill tube located on the right (passenger) side-front of the block.