Hi guys,

I just moved away from home and left my 2001 Ranger Edge 4x4 ext cab, auto 4.0L, with my parents for a few weeks.

My mom took it out to run some errands today and when she got back into the truck, it wouldn't start -- wouldn't even turn over -- and the "Theft" light blinked on the dash. Prior to this, the truck hadn't been driven in about a month.

Can the little chip in the key go bad or lose power? (this truck has one of those keys with the fat head on it)

There are no aftermarket security systems on this truck. I bought it as an ex-government truck (used to be a DC police truck, drove around giving parking tickets). I got a pretty good deal on it and it has been extremely reliable up until today.

I would REALLY like to disable this anti-theft device so that we won't have to worry about it anymore . . . I did some research online and it looks like the system is called PATS, and there is a way to disable it . . . for things like remote-start applications.

Can anyone help me out on this?

I'm not sure if this is a connected problem, but the truck also has an issue where it always "dings" when you open the door (even when the key is out). Could that be a contributing factor, or is this a completely different problem?

Thank you all!

 

Tgis is texas instruments 4D-60 crypto key. Immo transponder faults are very rare.

Fist of all check pick-up coil and immo unit wiring. May be previous owner installed immo by passer ore security system interrupting transmitting immobilizer code to transponder ore synchro code to PCM. Try to rewire by factory wiring diagrams.

Sometimes they put one key with transponder inside bypasser for remote star. may be something go bad.

Well, start with cheap sings, like wiring and pick up coil.

else you need a dealer....

 

I was doing some surfing, and this appears to maybe be a solution . . .

Ford Transponder (PATS) Bypass Kit (PKUF1) :: FORD IMMOBILIZER BYPASS MODULE :: IMMOBILIZER CUSTOM APPLICATIONS :: IMMOBILIZER KEY BYPASS KITS - TRANSPONDER BYPASS KITS :: DATA INTERFACES & IMMOBILIZER BYPASS MODULES :: Car Alarm & Remote Start :: AU

Does anyone have any experience with this sort of device?

Thanks!

 

HAH! to add one ore transponder you need two immo keys that work well. Ore sacrify one key to put inside bypass unit.

 

Pablo,

I don't really understand your post . . .

I got the part about taking the chip out of the key and sticking it in the ignition, but I'm worried that it might fall out and then I'd be up the creek without a paddle.

 

Ouh, you dont know why your truck won't start. What DTC codes?

Is CSM unit (immo unit) powered, is pick-up coil ok, wiring is not broken?







You try to fix system w/o OBD codes, you do not know why PCM cant get immo synchro code!

Sysytem look simple, but it is not primitive Megamos 5 byte key, this is crypto key! more sufisticated system, not so easy to bypass, easier to fix

 

I thought that PATS bypass thing that I had pasted in the earlier post would be a plug-in solution to bypassing the computer in the key-hole that requires the special fat key with the chip in it.

I have looked and all the wiring appears to be in good shape.

This truck does have power locks, but no remote or anything like that.

 

well, I try to tell you ways how this system works. First way - put one key inside, the other way - there is immo chip inside this system and you learn additional key in CSM but you must have two stock keys.

How CSM works - system logs in KEY, then KEY sends TRANSPONDER CODE in CSM, and CSM sends SYNCHRO CODE to log in PCM and PCM allow start. So twisting wires under steering column to start engine is just a myth

 

Wow . . . It works when I flip the key around . . .

Whenever this theft light starts blinking, I just pull the key out of the ignition, turn it 180 degrees, put it back in, then varoom, it starts!

Weird . . .

Thanks all for your posts!

-Joe

 

You might want to have a locksmith take a look at the truck, the key should work in either direction. One thing that you can check is if you have other transponder keys on the same ring. Often this can cause a problem like you describe

 

Thanks for your reply, Roger . . .

I didn't have any other keys on the ring. However, the truck does have another problem, and now I think it may be related . . .

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to stop the annoying "ding ding ding" whenever I open the door. Even with the key out and the lights off, the truck always "thinks" that the key is in the ignition and it dings at me.

I have tried putting some lubricant in the lock, moving the key in and out rapidly.

I also tried getting a pick inside the lock cylinder to try and free whatever is stuck. Nothing worked.

Do you think that this may be a related problem?

 

This is good to know. I have this system on my truck and was wondering what type of chip was in the key - I was thinking it was some kind of RFID chip. I've had the RFID chips go bad in the HID Prox cards we use at work... However, HID Prox cards don't use cryptography...

 

In my mind, I'm thinking the lock cylinder is damaged somehow and is affecting the wiring attached to it. Maybe something in the steering column...

I'm with Roger1960 - I'd take it in to a locksmith or a dealer - they might have some quick-n'-dirty way to check to see if the cylinder is damaged.

 

The mechanical portion and the transponder portion are not connected.

To solve the ding ding problem, remove the shroud around the steering column and insert the key. Turn the key to the ON position and depress the retainer pin. (Located on the lower side about an inch or so behind the ears.

With the lock cylinder in hand, inspect for wear and crud problems. The buzzer switch contacts are exposed so it is easy to diagnose the problem.

The transponder antenna is attached to the lock housing by one to three screws. Inspect this part for loose connectors and to see if the antenna ring is crooked somehow.

What happens when you try to start the car is that the antenna sends out a pulse and that pulse is enough to energize the circuitry in the little glass pellet located in the head of the key. The circuitry in the key just sends back a code number and the memory in the cars computer checks to see if the code is on file. If it is on file then the car gets fuel, spark, and will crank the starter. If it is not on file then you get a flashing light instead.

It is rare that the circuitry goes south in the key or the antenna, but sometimes the antenna can get loose.

Beyond that it probably needs to be plugged into a diagnostic machine.

Oh, check your local locksmith if your lock cylinder is buggered. Often they can repair your cylinder and if it needs a new one often it can be purchased from the locksmith for less then you can get it from the dealer or a parts house. Often the locksmith might have the scan tool to check the system also.

 

Roger,

Thanks for your advice. I solved the ding ding ding problem and it does not appear to be related to the theft-light-blinking-no-start problem. The small wire was loose in the ignition and it was completing the circuit on the ignition switch, hence the ding all the time

I found out some additional information on the truck. The guy I bought it from purchased it from an auction for dirt cheap because it had no key. It was sort of a gamble, and he ended up doing pretty good because once he ordered a new key system, it started right up.

So this tells me that the ignition cylinder has been replaced . . . i.e. messed with. Are there any connections I should check that may be causing this no-start problem? It hasn't happened in a long time.