I am curious about the removal of the pump itself, is it absolutely a necessity? I mean could I just take the pully off of it and by doing so would it leave enough room to add the shorter 47.50" belt.

By doing it this way, I think I would not have to worry about plugging the holes etc and just leave that junk alone until it is absolutely needed. As you can tell I have not climbed under this beast to look at it. I guess my main reason for asking is it seems a little over whelming to me having to trace down all those hoses and leaks etc.

Also now this will sound like a doozy but ok yes its a 460 and all that jazz, is the Dayco #5060475 the correct belt, I ask because I noticed that the poster states that his truck is a f250 with a 460, mine is a f350 with a 460, I know 460 is a 460 but I want to ask before I go and buy the belt. I hate making trips to the auto parts store I always feel like an idiot by the time I walk out of there and like those guys just really felt sorry for the stupid chick that just walked out the door.

So breaking it down, I have a 1993 f350 with a seized smog pump, rusted it appears, I would like to by pass it by removing its pully. and use the Dayco #5060475 belt.

last question how tight should I make the belt and do use the alternator bracket for those adjustments?

 

Its the same belt. I have a 94 with this motor. The 250s and 350s all use the same engine and setup, manual or automatic. The numbers in the earlier post are the right belts.

 

Quick question:

Is there acually a usefull point in removing the air pump rather than just let it be?


The 88 F150 300-6 I bought a while ago (not on road yet) has no air pump.

 

no gains but more room, and a cleaner looking engine compartment when all the smog just is removed (except the egr)

 

Wow, this thread was brought back from 2003!! i'm so glad too, since i have been searching for a fix to delete my loud Squeaking Smog pump..

Thanks
Mario

 

This has been an extremely useful thread, however I believe there was 1 question that went unanswered.....is it possible on the 460 to just remove the pulley on the air pump as opposed to removing the whole pump? I am getting ready to put new belts on mine and I removed the cat and put new exhaust a while back so the air pump isnt needed anymore, (if it ever was), because if I have to remove the whole pump I wont bypass it, I will just get a OEM belt size for what I need to run it all since my pump doesnt have any problems, I really dont relish the thought of removing the whole thing at this time. thanks guys.

 

Am I correct that on the 460 the air pump ONLY feeds the catalytic converter? I don't see any plumbing into the exhaust manifolds or heads on mine after a cursory look-see. Mine is a '90 F250. I am doing exhaust work now, and I notice that Summit has 3-way cats that don't need an air supply (how do they work?) so if that is so, and the air pump is only feeding the cat, I might delete mine too and replace the cat with one that does not need an air line, just to make things cleaner under the hood.

 

I know it's an old post but you were in the same boat I'm in now so I was wondering if you have any advice? I put headers on my 460 equipped 95 F350 and now the A.I.R. pump doesn't hook to anything and just makes a ton of wind noise under the hood and I want to remove it. I don't want to go through the BS of removing the pump itself since I just got done putting a lot of stuff back together under the hood but I want to remove all the emissions garbage that isn't working anyway. My question is, do I just cut the lines at the pump and cap them or will this explode the pump? Or should I just remove all the lines and leave the pump so I don't have to buy a new Alt. belt since mine is only 1 week old?

 

I was told that the air pump or smog pump what ever people call it. i was told that it only works on start up to clean the exhaust up by adding more fresh air in to clean i up for air care testing. so after tha engine is running it stops working and just spins making a noise that is very irritating.............

 

(AIS) is designed to introduce clean air to the engine exhaust as it exits the exhaust manifold or exhaust headers. Exhaust gases are at their hottest as they leave the combustion chambers. Introducing oxygen to the exhaust at this point allows continued burning of the fuel mixture as it travels down the exhaust system and ultimately out the tailpipe.

Its a constant catalyst...

As far as law governing the system ( just for info we all dont care)


Note: During the smog test the air injection system is only visual inspected. The smog technician will not insure the proper operation of this system, rather he or she will only verify that the system is installed and properly connected.


Will aftermarket headers cause my car to fail the smog test?

The answer is yes. Exhaust headers, not to mention the entire AIR Air injection system is an "emissions component". Any modification to the headers, intake manifold, or exhaust manifold, including removal of a "Y" tube from the exhaust pipes (if equipped) is considered an emissions tamper. Your vehicle will fail the smog inspection even before the tailpipe exhaust is checked.



Just make sure to know your areas testing place and if they care/check.


I post this caz IN MA we are emission exempt with this era truck. Some places check , some don't.. I have a "friend" and can pass anything, new or old.

 

Jeff Dodson--do you have the belt length/sub model for a 351W air pump delete still?

 

mike460 was right for the passenger side set up with the serpentine belt.

I just removed my air pump and measured for the belt around the alternator, water pump, and crank pulleys. 47" is the length at which the alternator tension bracket is halfway along the bolt slot.

My motor will be running tonight and I will find out if this is going to mess with the tension/balance on the crank pulley.

BTW THIS MAY NOT APPLY IN V-BELT APPLICATIONS...

 

I used a 5060475 and found it a titch long, the 470 length works better and places the alt adjust slot right in the middle. Take the pump off, get rid of the garbage, the check valves will hold the ex back and you'll have a much NEATER engine compartment. Saw the bottom off the alum pump bracket while its off

 

removed the cat and other polution stuff. got the egr plug in module for the $20.00, replaced the fuel filter under driver feet and the recommended alternator belt (shorter due to pump removal). Truck runs great. thanks for the tips! The 475 worked great it fit my adjustment in the middle.
I have 460, C6, 4X4, F-350 crew cab Bronco

 

Good to hear ciclone. My EGR eliminator did not keep my CEL off. Mine is a 97 with an EEC-IV computer, and yours should be also. The only difference is I have and E4OD. Did your CEL stay off?