I decided to start a new post on my window motor repair, big thx to LCAM-01XA for his original post on how to fix broken dowles in the motor. Below I have outlined his post with my own photos and comments. My windows work awesome now!

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Remove door panel and speaker.<br>
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Find dimple and notch locations.<br>
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Drill holes with 1/2 drill bit, I drilled a smaller pilot hole first and then notch slot with grinder.<br>
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Motor disasembled... note the pile of greasy broken plastic dowles on the left.<br>
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Everything cleaned up and ready to put back together.<br>
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Insert 2 1/4 nuts as shown then install gear to wedge assembly in place.<br>
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This shows gear assembley with first 2 nuts installed.<br>
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Use a screwdriver to push the remaining 4 nuts into place.<br>
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This shows all 6 nuts and gears assembled and ready to go back into motor.<br>
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I packed with grease and reassembled.<br>
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Motor reinstalled and working perfect, notice the piece of duct tape I used over the ground out slot to protect wires from chaffing.<br>

 

nice post warozz! the pictures along with LCAMs instructions will make for a perfect repair! also love the snap-on tools, great choice!

 

Cool, cause I just put my door panels back on after running coax for the mirror-mount antennas, and only then realized I never took pics of where to drill and grind for the motors. And I should have also swapped my motor out too, oh well, some other day when it ain't raining (literally) on my parade...

 

Thx guys, glad ya like. Snap On is about all I buy anymore when it comes to hand tools. I am always buying new tools for work and recycle the older ones home

 

sounds like me, started out with all craftsman tools and tool box and top chest at work now that whole setup it settin in the garage with all new snap-on for work

 

Hey!! Thank you WarOzz!!
The instructions were perfect.
One of the best DIY experiences from the web I've had.
I just finished repairing the motor on my 1992 F-250.
I can't thank you enough!!

-cmack110

 

FYI guys,

I purchased replacement plastic dowels at autozone for 8 bucks. they are sold in sets of three and look like clear mini marshmellows. Windows are working great for 6 months now.

 

Good write up. I recently had to do this to both windows in my 86, greasy, chunky fun.

 

I need to do this in my MIL's truck...

One thing to note, i'm told those plastic pins are a safety device to keep you from getting injured should you be stupid enough to roll the window up on your arm, leg, or neck (yea....i said stupid...). By fixing it with 1/4" nuts, you take away that safety feature, but guarantee you'll never have to replace broken plastic pins...


Your choice...

 

Six 1/4 nuts are about $.18 total. Either fix works, but the nuts will not break if you hit resistance and lose the safety feature thay provide. The nuts will also not get brittle and break which results in doing this repair a second time.

I did the 1/4 inch nuts repair on my truck, discovering on my own to use them. Working good for near 2 years now.

 

Sweet write-up. Thanks so much. I just repaired the motor in my '88 in about an hour for less than $.50

 

I had to read it twice to catch the fact that you DID NOT remove the regulator assembly. I just replaced two regulators/motors on mine, and it seemed quicker to just remove the whole assembly to do this fix. Guess I was wrong. Nice DIY!!

 

I've been doing some power window repairs lately, and have found that if needed the motor can be swapped without a lot of effort with the gear box from the opposite side too. As it stands now, I think I have 3 or 4 spare motors for windows! Helped I got some from the wreckers recently.....

 

Damn, thanks for ressurecting this old thread, my windows have gone to crap when rolling up, was gonna just get a new motor, this could help.

 

If they are going up, but need help, it will either be the nylon pins have crapped out, or the motor is getting tired. Replacing the motor (if you are going new) will fix it, as the pins are part of that assembly. A used one, may have a good motor, but those pins could be not far from giving up too. I would take it apart and see if the pins are shot, if so, replace them, or replace them with the nuts, and run it a while.

I had one motor this fall that stopped all together, turned out that it was corroded between the motor housing and the gear housing and wasn't making good connection back to ground.

I'll try to expand on this thread in the next couple days and take some pics of the actual motor and gearbox guts.