Research this endeavor carefully.There are definitely issues when installing a custom exhaust system on a 2011 or 2012 F-250 Super Duty with the 6.2 gas engine. I just had a Flowmaster 53073 70 series installed. Not good. There is barely any noticeable difference in sound, it's mostly just a droning sound. This was after jury-rigging the rear outlet to fit correctly. The inlet/outlet on the 53073 is 3 inches. The inlet is correct, and will attach easily. The outlet will not. The outlet to the tailpipe is 3 and 1/2 inches. Flowmaster mentioned this little tidbit after the fact. Nice of them to let me know. Flowmaster does not sell this muffler, or any other muffler for this vehicle with the correct outlet. You will need an adapter, unfortunately, there is very little room to do this. The option I used was to just weld in the gap. That worked quite well. A good welder will make it look stock. The biggest issue, by far, is the resonator. Because of this big lump of useless metal, there are no true "cat-back" systems available, no matter what you read, or what the manufacturer tells you. You will have to remove the resonator to get to a true cat-back installation. Here's the bitch part. The resonator has dual inlets, and a single outlet. This is one tricky part to bypass. My mechanic could not believe his own eyes. That was a first. This has been my experience. The one thing I do know is that no matter what you put behind the resonator, you will not get the results you are looking for. The resonator has to go. I'm currently researching a way to do this without hacking the hell out of my system. Possibly a dual inlet, single outlet bypass pipe ? Any ideas ?

 

It's gonna cost you ! The resonator is a huge hinderance. Read my post.

 

The ideal way to go would have been to cut the pipes going INTO the front resonator, then running dual pipes from there into Flowmaster #530513, a dual 3" inlet muffler with a 3-1/2" outlet, which would make for a VERY clean setup, allowing you to weld the stock tailpipe to the muffler without "booger-welds". Should sound decent, too. One should always look at the ENTIRE catalog to know what all is available, then think outside the box when figuring out a system that will not only work, but work well. The main expenses here are the muffler and (2) lengths of 3" tube to connect the headpipes to the muffler. This system should pretty efficient.

 

I'm on it ! I was just trying to get better sound without going crazy. It's a brand new truck. Thanks ! I'll let my pride heal for a while, then tackle that.

 

Glad I could help! I think.....(Receiving free advice hurt your pride? New to me...)

 

Not really. I have a very obsessive personality. I researched the hell out of this, but it seems like every time I do, there's just one or two major details that are overlooked. It just kills me how Flowmaster, Borla, etc. all claim to have a cat-back system for this vehicle, when in reality, they don't. The devil is in the details. I find that every single time, without fail, there are litttle minor details that are overlooked. These details are what kill me. Take, for example, the AFE cold air intake part # 54-11972. This part has fittings in the plenum intake tube for replacing the crankcase vent lines. The Airaid cold air intake, part # 401-273 does not have these fittings. Which is correct ? They both claim to fit my vehicle, yet, they are different. It's these details that kill me. But, I do thank you for your help. It just gets so dam frustrating !

 

Well, the reason some air intake kits don't include as many parts as others, is that they don't need them, as they reuse existing parts.
Other kits have more parts because they fit differently enough to warrant them for a better fit.
The only thing cat-back really means is that the system does not start at the manifold, but at some point after the converters. In the case of the Ford F-250, that means the first clamp joint available is that behind the forward resonator. Evereything between the converters and the end of that resonator is welded from the factory for ease of assembly. None of this is a plot or conspiracy to foil anybody. In the case of air intakes, find the one you like, buy it, install it with any parts included PLUS any original parts needed, and you will be happy. You will still get EVERYTHING required to complete the job. Some just use more original parts than others. It's a matter of how each kit is designed.
In the case of exhaust systems, what is available are ALL better than the factory setup, but none are perfect because a certain amount of assembly ease must be figured in, and that would be a lot tougher if they had to make a kit that bolts to the rear of the converters instead of in back of the first resonator. To get that last degree of improvement, one must do a bit of "rolling one's own" at the local muffler shop, any of which can easily do what I described in my previous post.
So take it a little easier, do your homework on finding the right parts(read the WHOLE catalog) and try not to be so obsessive, since you DO know how you are. Best of luck in your future endeavors!

 

The Dynomax system looks like a true catback for our SD's

http://www.8-lug.com/tech/1109_8l_dy.../photo_06.html
http://dynomax.com/exhaust_details.p...l-engine-39506

 

Looks like somebody finally got it right.....

 

Well, who's going first?

 

Waddayamean?

 

LOL...I've been waiting and wondering the same thing.

I'm about ready to pull the trigger on exhaust, but am undecided. I like the looks and simplicity of the Flowmaster system I mentioned earlier, but with so many other choices out there, I was hoping to hear some more sounds clips from others.

That dynomax system above looks great, except for one little thing...I'd prefer dual outlets out the rear.

 

(Like how I did that?;-) Here's an idea for you- cut off the first resonator at the inlet pipes, then continue those pipes to a dual-inlet/dual outlet Flowmaster going into twin tailpipes that end wherever you like. Any good muffler shop should be able to handle this, plus it should sound GOOOOD!

 

That dynomax system above would be great if it had dual in and dual out. I'd prefer dual outlets out the rear exiting on the same right side 3" apart and to the end of the bumper. Looks like all that Dynomax would need to do is build the dual inlet / dual outlet muffler.

 

Ok, first off, i'm a long time visitor of this forum, new as a member. love it, have gotten lots of great info and help from it. I followed this thread and found that link to the dynomax exhaust. I already had installed the mbrp exhaust from the large resinator and back to a single exit. sounded ok, but wanted more. Didn't want to buy the complete dynomax system so called them to find out if I could just get the y pipe to eliminate the LARGE resinator. answer was yes and any auto parts store that carries walker or dynomax exhaust will have it or get it quick. So I got it, installed it with a reducer from 4" to the 3" going into the mbrp muffler. sounds AWESOME!!!!!! have had it on for about a month now, but here is the problem I am finding......I've lost 2 miles per gallon and have noticed a significant loss of power!! I'm going to assume its due to a lack of back pressure? too free flowing for a gas engine?? any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Gary