Can I remove the cat on a 96 Ranger 2.3 without problems??
#1
Can I remove the cat on a 96 Ranger 2.3 without problems??
Hey, I have a 96 ranger 2.3 5spd and the converter has a rattling noise inside. I want to just take it off because I don't have the money for a new one. But I noticed that there is an O2 sensor behind it. Is that going to cause a computer issue? I dont care if the cel is on, I just don't want a rough running rich or lean burn issue. Anyone have experience with this?
#3
#4
Yes it is but so it taking cigarettes across state lines.
That said the cat for that truck is relatively cheap. $205 for the direct fit unit from rockauto.com. It's not worth screwing around with emulators for for that kind of money. Your fuel trim will never be right with an emulator and stock ECM.
That said the cat for that truck is relatively cheap. $205 for the direct fit unit from rockauto.com. It's not worth screwing around with emulators for for that kind of money. Your fuel trim will never be right with an emulator and stock ECM.
#5
#6
Yes, I happen to know about the federal law thing. But I live in a hole in the road town where there is never any checks or emissions testing around here. I know that some people have used a spark plug non-fouler on the O2 sensor with good results on some vehicles, but I wasn't sure about these trucks. I know $200 doesn't sound like much money, but I simply dont have that much to spend on it. Would an aftermarket cheapie work?? I know summit has some for around $60.
#7
obd2 cats are different from obd1 cats. a cheapy will likely not work for long w/o problems. you will do more damage by removing it than you will by living with the noise. go get 4-6 two inch long self tapping screws and run them into the cat at different locations to secure the element until you can afford to fix it right!
Trending Topics
#9
Look, first off, the cat failed for a reason. Chances are its not running right and you've overheated the cat as a result. Get a complete tuneup first, otherwise your new cat won't last very long.
Next, you need a cat that is really made for OBD-II systems. The simple fact of the matter is your are not going to find those cheap. If you put a cheap cat, it might work for a little while, but even with a properly tuned engine the cheap cats kick the bucket after a few months, maybe a year or two if you get lucky.
This is a good cat that will last.
Item Details
The reason the cheaper cats cost less than this one is they do not have the precious metal content, and they do not have the quality or the technology.
The non fouler trick alledgedly works by isolating the rear O2 sensor from the exhuast stream. The problem with the approach is while it produces a steady waveform, it also produces a low voltage. Low voltage equals high oxygen level equals non-functional converter equals your check engine light comes on.
Run without a cat, the engine will not scavenge properly. Without proper scavenging, your low end torque and fuel economy will be less than it could be.
I can't really tell you what you can and cannot do with your truck, but I have found in my experience with vehicles, that every single time I did something the wrong way because it was cheaper, it came back around and bit me. Anything from costing more to fix than doing it right the first time, something else breaking because the first thing wasn't right, or just having to do it again.
Next, you need a cat that is really made for OBD-II systems. The simple fact of the matter is your are not going to find those cheap. If you put a cheap cat, it might work for a little while, but even with a properly tuned engine the cheap cats kick the bucket after a few months, maybe a year or two if you get lucky.
This is a good cat that will last.
Item Details
The reason the cheaper cats cost less than this one is they do not have the precious metal content, and they do not have the quality or the technology.
The non fouler trick alledgedly works by isolating the rear O2 sensor from the exhuast stream. The problem with the approach is while it produces a steady waveform, it also produces a low voltage. Low voltage equals high oxygen level equals non-functional converter equals your check engine light comes on.
Run without a cat, the engine will not scavenge properly. Without proper scavenging, your low end torque and fuel economy will be less than it could be.
I can't really tell you what you can and cannot do with your truck, but I have found in my experience with vehicles, that every single time I did something the wrong way because it was cheaper, it came back around and bit me. Anything from costing more to fix than doing it right the first time, something else breaking because the first thing wasn't right, or just having to do it again.
#10
#11
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 30,925
Likes: 0
Received 963 Likes
on
762 Posts
I'm not going to point the finger at anybody but there is a lot of bad info in this thread concerning the operation of the EFI system without the cat and rear O2 sensor. Bottom line is the motor will run perfectly fine without a cat as long as the front O2 sensor/s are in the exhaust and connected, the rear sensor has zero effect on engine operation it's just there to monitor catalytic effectiveness and trigger the CE light if the cat deteriorates, in other words it's a smog nanny. The rear sensor can also be replaced with an O2 simulator which should keep the CE light off.
For the record I don't condone removing the catalytic system, universal cats sized for this truck are cheap and can be swapped in relatively easily in most cases.. though some apps will require welding.
For the record I don't condone removing the catalytic system, universal cats sized for this truck are cheap and can be swapped in relatively easily in most cases.. though some apps will require welding.
#12
I'm not going to point the finger at anybody but there is a lot of bad info in this thread concerning the operation of the EFI system without the cat and rear O2 sensor. Bottom line is the motor will run perfectly fine without a cat as long as the front O2 sensor/s are in the exhaust and connected, the rear sensor has zero effect on engine operation it's just there to monitor catalytic effectiveness and trigger the CE light if the cat deteriorates, in other words it's a smog nanny. The rear sensor can also be replaced with an O2 simulator which should keep the CE light off.
For the record I don't condone removing the catalytic system, universal cats sized for this truck are cheap and can be swapped in relatively easily in most cases.. though some apps will require welding.
For the record I don't condone removing the catalytic system, universal cats sized for this truck are cheap and can be swapped in relatively easily in most cases.. though some apps will require welding.
#13
You can't get a simulator from anywhere, they are illegal. Also to even make you you still need a functional sensor.
The least expensive and most reliable solution is to replace the cat after you figure out and repair what screwed it up in the first place.
If the cat is just rattling, leave it along for now and wait to you can afford to fix it right.
The least expensive and most reliable solution is to replace the cat after you figure out and repair what screwed it up in the first place.
If the cat is just rattling, leave it along for now and wait to you can afford to fix it right.
#14
I had removed the cat in my Dodge Ram V10 8.0 without any problems, but in Germany the laws are very hard and every 2 years the car go to the TÜV. If there are no cats in the car they forbid you to drive with the car! So I install 2 racing cats which don't retain the exhaust gases. The different between stock and the racing part is great!
#15