Need info on changing out my EGR valve
#1
Need info on changing out my EGR valve
At about 77k my EGR valve went out, Not so bad when the dealer will cover it under warranty. Now at 108k (per the dealer) the EGR is bad again and also need to change out the cooler as well. Dealed did test for $75 bucks and says that the heads are fine and that is not the problem its the EGR valve. So I guess my question is, can I do this in my garage at home?? What is involved and how complicated is it realy? what is with the EGR by-pass kits i have seen. Is that somthing I want to consider? Please if someone has some proffesional advise I need it. Before I tear into this beast???
Thank you Mike
Thank you Mike
#2
If the EGR cooler is bad, then you also want to install the oil cooler rebuild kit. The root cause of the EGR cooler failing is the oil cooler plugging up on the coolant side (coolant flow path is through the oil cooler and then on to the EGR cooler in series).
Lots of threads on EGR system deletes.
Personally I do not think you HAVE to delete the EGR system for reliability, but if you do, get a tuner that takes it into account (JMHO). Certainly if you properly delete the EGR system, then you have eliminated a source of some of the more common problems. If you keep the EGR system, I would consider installing the "BulletProof" EGR coolers.
.... and welcome to FTE!
Lots of threads on EGR system deletes.
Personally I do not think you HAVE to delete the EGR system for reliability, but if you do, get a tuner that takes it into account (JMHO). Certainly if you properly delete the EGR system, then you have eliminated a source of some of the more common problems. If you keep the EGR system, I would consider installing the "BulletProof" EGR coolers.
.... and welcome to FTE!
#3
Also need to get the gaskets for it. I don't have the part number handy. Someone might jump on here with it though.
Here is a picture of where the EGR valve is:
http://www.backglass.org/duncan/ps60...l/ps60_013.jpg
#5
If the EGR cooler is bad, then you also want to install the oil cooler rebuild kit. The root cause of the EGR cooler failing is the oil cooler plugging up on the coolant side (coolant flow path is through the oil cooler and then on to the EGR cooler in series).
Lots of threads on EGR system deletes.
Personally I do not think you HAVE to delete the EGR system for reliability, but if you do, get a tuner that takes it into account (JMHO). Certainly if you properly delete the EGR system, then you have eliminated a source of some of the more common problems. If you keep the EGR system, I would consider installing the "BulletProof" EGR coolers.
.... and welcome to FTE!
Lots of threads on EGR system deletes.
Personally I do not think you HAVE to delete the EGR system for reliability, but if you do, get a tuner that takes it into account (JMHO). Certainly if you properly delete the EGR system, then you have eliminated a source of some of the more common problems. If you keep the EGR system, I would consider installing the "BulletProof" EGR coolers.
.... and welcome to FTE!
I might add when you are done: flush the system with VC-9 and distilled water and then add a coolant filter system.
#7
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#10
Cheezit, how easy should the valve move? I can move the valve open and closed with my fingers, but it requires a little effort. Should it be hard to move?
#12
#13
sorry not trying to hijack this thread but a quick question. I pulled my egr valve this past weekend at 77k miles (06 f350 normally the wife's daily driver, but we tow a 14.5-15k 5th wheel about twice a month in June - September). It was actually pretty clean, but I used carb cleaner and shined it up trying not to get anything in the holes at the base of the top. After putting it all back together it started right up and we went for a ride, about 1.5 miles stopped at a light and when the light turned the truck wouldn't go, I basically had it floored and it was putting out black and blueish smoke but it barely moved us to the side of the road, like it went into some kind of limp mode. Anyway, sat there for a minute trying to think what I might have done wrong decided to try to move to the other side of the road where there was more shoulder and about half way across the road all of a sudden it clears up and back to full power. no CEL or any other warnings or lights. Drove it almost 100 miles since then and everything seems OK. We are leaving this Friday for a week long trip with the 5th wheel going about 400 mile one way and I sure don't want to get stuck. Any ideas as to what might have happened? I'm not sure when/why the EGR valve cycles but could it be that the valve was just "resetting" itself after having been unplugged, removed, cleaned and replaced?
thanks
thanks
#14
They made EGR valve improvements in 2007. If yours is the original, I would buy a new one for the trip. I installed a new one in my 2006 last a few years ago. One of the improvements is a stiffer spring.
Problems immediately after the work quite often have a connection to the work. Not sure how, but it and the symptoms seem to point to the EGR valve.
#15
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04-16-2011 12:15 PM