So no pictures yet, but will have some tomorrow probably, but I've decided (a decade too late) that it's time to restore/update the 1962 f100 that my dad got to be my first car.

Needs a small amount of fab work for rust, but fortunately a small amount and never had an engine in it, i guess the hamster that came stock died.

Juggling a number of ideas for what to do with it, but definitely want to update the suspension and brakes to something a bit more modern and have a couple options for my underpinnings. What ended up being my first car was a 1984 long wheelbase f150, so I've thought about doing some frame modifications to shorten it the 2 feet needed to match length and using the 351W and three speed manual in it and go from there...

OR: My uncle has a short wheelbase 93 f150 with 302/auto that I can purchase and not have to do any frame mods whatsoever.

As to engines, aside from what is attached to either frame, I could put a 390/auto in or a 460/3 speed manual so decisions are a plenty.

I've other ideas, like paint/wheels/interior/stereo/a.c./HID light conversion, but first step is getting body solid, then put on to whichever frame/drivetrain I, and my dad, decide is best, but to be sure, there will be pictures.

 

I think you'll have frame mods regardless, as the 61-64s don't "bolt on" to anything newer. You'll need to fab cab mounts for sure, tough you may be able to use the originals & modify/adapt to the later frame. I'm sure one of the body swap gurus will chime in soon. Post some pics & let us see what we've got to work with! Good luck!

 

Welcome; read some of the tech article's and see about converting your straight axle into a ifs type; (most swap's are 53-60) but theres' ,numerous articles on this swap; not easy, but doable; Frame swap would in my opinion be more challenging then; using a clip from another type vehicle (especially Uni's) and then use a crossmember conversion for engine swap.
I'm building/restoring a 64 F100 project with a straight axle and installing a 360 C-6; and modifing power steering & brake booster on once I get pass the cab mount replacements.
Keep us posted on your progress.

 

So after more deliberation, I've decided to stick with the truck intact and not worry about a frame swap and that it will be getting a 390/auto (c-4 or 6, I'm thinking) dropped in as the materials to do such a thing are easily attained.

Pics of how it sits.

 

Looks like a good project in the making. What condition is the torque box in? I noticed some rust on the side of the bed. Looks like a 292 valve cover in the bed, does she still have the original drive train?

 

No engine, but have the original 3 speed manual and rear end is still attached.

 

It looks like it had a grille guard at one time. Is it still there?

 

It was not and upon further inspection, it was added by whoever drove the truck before my dad got it.

Things are lookin good. got a 390 waiting, found a c6 for 75 on ebay, now it's fixing rust and making sure the body's solid

 

Looking at you pictures it appears the torque box may be toast. Check that before you do anything.

Garbz

 

Garbz - 'splain to da man what a torque box is...

if not for reading icemans thread a few weeks back I wouldn't have a clue...

 

I have an idea of what he means.

 

There are plenty of IFS upgrades available. Dakota, Crown Vic, Mustang II. Do some thinking on how you want to drive the truck when you're done. (daily driver, drag race, etc...) That may help you narrow down what you want to do

Jason

 

I want a dd/weekend cruiser with power brakes (disk fronts) and power steering. I've decided to keep frame/body together and just buy the aftermarket upgrades to both.

I am debating finding another set of doors, however, as who had the vehicle before decided the stock mirrors sucked and put a set of towing mirrors on and just used metal screws to hold them in place and put holes all in the doors.

 

The Dakota IC cross member is out of production, probably permanently. Industrial Chassis no longer produces them or has the patterns and jigs. So one of the best made alternatives has evaporated.

The torque box is sheet metal stampings in the form of a box attached to the bedsides, bed floor and the rear cab end floor stamping. It is what provides the rigidity in the body along with unique B pillar lower internals. When this is rotted away by cancer all manner of things can and do happen with the body and doors not aligning, the actual truck twisting and cracking. I junk any truck that has this severely cancered as it is a huge job to replace it.

Garbz

 

The pictures are probably a bit misleading as to that as it's sitting on very uneven ...well mud and I'd opened and closed the doors but hadn't shut them fully before taking the pictures.

I'll be cleaning the cab and bed out of the truck later this week (friday hopefully) and will have pictures of the bed interior and bare cab interior as well up shortly after.