AC recharge
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If you go and buy a "cheapie" kit from the parts store or Walmart many of them have a built in guage-and the connection will only go on the low side (suction side) fitting so you'll be ok there, just start the engine and turn the a/c to "max" then attach the connector from the can and turn it on-if your system is completely empty it MAY take a second can-JUST WATCH THE GUAGE & don't let it get into the RED area because thats TOO HIGH.
There are varring opinions as to the use of refridgerant with sealers in them some say it works ok and some have reported that it clogged things up that it shouldn't.
That said I think if I were you & I wanted to try it I'd just use straight refrigerant the first go-around-how quick does your system leak down?
There are varring opinions as to the use of refridgerant with sealers in them some say it works ok and some have reported that it clogged things up that it shouldn't.
That said I think if I were you & I wanted to try it I'd just use straight refrigerant the first go-around-how quick does your system leak down?
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You can just hook the gauge up and and do the steps above. You dont need to press the lever or push the button to see how full it is. The gauge will work as soon as you put it on the low side ( suction ). $200 around here is about right for my area. That does not seem to high IMOP. Get the stuff that has the UV dye in it and then look for your leak that way. If its just an O-ring you can fix that yourself. But you will still need to evacuate your system of all air once you crack it open.
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you can go to walmart, buy the syththetic R134a big bottle recharge with the guage. Check your low end pressure according to the specs on the can (should be 35-45psi) If its low then add, if not you've got other issues. The fact that you have SOME A/c means you've got at least some pressure which would indicate you have no major leaks. the sealant in the can will take care of the rest. Buy the Synth stuff that gets 50% colder faster, you won't be sorry. it even contains the proper oil needed for the compressor.
also check your clutch gap with a feeler guage. (should be .025-.030 i think) Mine was up to pressure but the ac clutch kept disengaging on it own intermittently until i took a little spacer out behind the clutch which allowed the electromagnetic coil to grab it better. It took 5 min.
also check your clutch gap with a feeler guage. (should be .025-.030 i think) Mine was up to pressure but the ac clutch kept disengaging on it own intermittently until i took a little spacer out behind the clutch which allowed the electromagnetic coil to grab it better. It took 5 min.
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also check your clutch gap with a feeler guage. (should be .025-.030 i think) Mine was up to pressure but the ac clutch kept disengaging on it own intermittently until i took a little spacer out behind the clutch which allowed the electromagnetic coil to grab it better. It took 5 min.
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The low side service port is on the reciever/drier which is up against the evaporator case. Passenger side of engine compartment. its in close proximity to the map sensor and CAC tube. And our trucks take 2.63lbs of r134a when empty. Our shop gets 89$ but I'm sure prices will be all over the place. That includes a 30 min vacuum sesion.