Ok guys I have searched up and down and cannot figure this out...maybe Ive missed something. I have a 92' F250. I have been having trouble starting it. I have to slam the pedal to the floor to get the safety switch to engage. I saw there was a bit of play in the bushings between the clutch pedal and the clutch level (not sure thats the right term). So I figure I would replace those as a start. Problem is that I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get them out. Like I said maybe Im missing something here??? Any help on this would be great.

Thanks

 

Are you talking about the plastic bushings in the clutch pedal linkage?

Hydraulic Clutch Troubleshooting .: Articles

 

The clutch master cyl rod just pulls off on mine and the bushing just snaps into the clutch master cyl rod. However the arm from the underdash linkage likely is worn out causing the bushing to fail. The arm is replaceable from Ford price around 20 bucks a month ago when I did mine. You have to take the nut off and pry off the arm, then replace it. Expect it to be bad. Another place to look is the fire wall. This body style of truck was known for the firewall flexing and breaking over time causing the truck's clutch to not disengage. Have someone press the clutch while you look at the firewall and clutch master cylinder. There should be no flex, no vertical deflection. If there is there is a repair kit from Ford. That should give you a few things to look at. Of course could be just a bad clutch switch!!! LOL!

 

jplinville that would be correct. I got the new bushings, but can figure out how to get the old ones out...believe there are 3 of them along the rod. Big Blue...i figured I would look at the rod once I got it out, but do expect I will have to likely replace it. Just havent gotten to that point yet. Trying to trouble shoot this problem, being that I can visibly see play in these bushings so I thought it would be a likely place to start

 

Please make a write up with pictures...I have to do the same thing soon.

 

Do you have the clutch and brake pedal assembly out of the truck? The column comes out easily on these trucks and the assembly bracket is just above it. If the bushings are for the rod that the pedals pivot on then it has to be out to change them. Not too bad on the last one I did.

 

ok got it all done. Finally figured it all out, what a major pain in the A$$. jplinville didnt see your message until afterwards. Though its a pretty simple process, I can walk you through it. Just time consuming as getting to one of the bolts is really hard. Really all you have to do is just pull the rod out. Let me know if you need and direction. What a difference new bushings made though. Acts like a new truck

 

Yes...please do a write up for me. I'm planning on doing this next week!!

 

I just purchased my first F450. It is a 1996 Powerstroke with a 5 speed. Mileage is approximately 176,000. The truck will not start unless you have the clutch pedal pressed as hard as you can to the floor. Also, the clutch engages as soon as you let off any pressure on the clutch. I was able to drive it home only by double clutching at every shift. The previous owner replaced the clutch and rebuilt the transmission thinking that was what it needed but that didn't fix the problem. He was going to change the clutch master and slave cylinders next but money has been tight so he put the truck up for sale. I have started troubleshooting the problem myself and discovered that the bushings on the rod the clutch pedal and brake pedal ride on are deteriorated on the right side which limits movement of the rod to the master cylinder. I've order the bushing kit from Ford but would prefer to replace the factory plastic/teflon bushing with metal ones. Does anyone know a source for metal bushings? If so, please post a link. Once I get the bushings replaced, I'll reassess the clutch setup for any additional worn parts. I'd appreciate any suggestions on what else might be casuing the symptoms/problem I'm having.

Thanks,
Steve Brooks

 

I could machine you some metal bushings but I'm too busy with work this summer I don't have time until the fall. Hopefully he didnt drive too much on the rebuilt tranny. Your clutch pedal has alot of play most likely and is not fully disengaging. You could replace the master cyl. and slave and bleed it...and fix the pedal bushings and rod end that goes into the slave. That's what I did on my truck and it works great now.

Here is a link to the clutch rod end:
FORD Clutch Rod End PERMANENT Repair powerstroke too. : eBay Motors (item 260628387808 end time Jul-10-10 14:08:26 PDT)

 

Glad I found this thread. I have a 96 F150 4x4 with a 5 speed and lately it has been almost impossible to shift if the engine is running. Around Christmas 2008 I had problems with the fluid leaking out if the temps got below freezing, but since then haven't lost a bit of fluid, don't know what stopped it. Now it seems that sometimes it shifts fairly well then other times barely disengages the clutch. It has 209k miles and has never had any work done on the clutch. I have been planning on changing out the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing soon, but not sure that would fix this problem or not.

Does this model have the slave cylinder mounted inside the bellhousing with no pivot, just setting against the throwout bearing? And could this problem be more related to the slave cylinder than the bushings? It releases right near the floor, and feels like there is very little pressure on the clutch with quite a bit of travel before you feel it give any resistance at all. I am going to check the bushing after work, and see what it looks like. I am hoping it will be this easy fix instead of having to tear into the bellhousing since I have to do it in a gravel driveway .

 

jedijeb,

What engine/transmission combo do you have?
460's and diesels w/ the ZF have an external slave.
Just poke your head under the drivers side and have a look. It is pretty obvious if the slave is mounted externally.

 

I had the same issue on my 93, but i ended up drilling out the stud that the bushing rides on and replacing it with a bolt and a much tougher bushing that i can easily replace. But its been over a year and i hadnt had an issue yet so i hadnt even messed with it.

 

I used a spent casing as a brass bushing and PC7'd it over the stud, retaining the pushrod with a washer and cotter pin.

 

It is an F150 4.9L with the M5 tranny. Checked it is the internal slave on that one. Checked the bushings on the pedal shaft and the white ones look ok, the little black bushing/retaining clip for the push rod to the master cylinder though looks messed up though, is sitting at an angle. Couldn't get just that piece at O'Reily's so just picked up a new master cylinder and going to try that first since it is the easiest to replace.