I did some searches on this and cant find a clear cut answer. I do plan on asking the guy that does my inspection when I take the car back in but curious if anyone from texas here would know, question is as follows.

1. How many turn signal indicators are required by law on the interior of the car?

I am hoping that I can just get away with one green turnsignal indicator that flashes when my toggle switch for my left-right turnsignals outside is activated left or right.

 

Here is the law (cut and Pasted)
Note item (5f) below references indicator operation. (Does not specify quantity, just that indicator operates.)
I see no reason for rejection for lack of Multiple internal indicators unless it was originally manufactured that way, just the external ones.
My interpretation would be to default to the manufacturer of the vehicle. If dash indicators are present for left/right
then I would apply 5f this way and expect both to operate as designed.

20.29 Turn Signal Lamps. Every motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer, and pole trailer shall be equipped with electrical turn signal lamps,
except that passenger cars and trucks less than 80 inches in width and manufactured or assembled prior to the model year 1960 need
not be equipped with electrical turn signal lamps.
If the bed, body, cab, load, and any other equipment on a vehicle or combination of vehicles exceeds 24 inches or more to the left of
the center of the top of the steering post in the same horizontal plane (that is, as high as the center of the top of the steering post) or
when the distance from the center of the top of the steering post to the rear limit of the body or load exceeds 14 feet, then turn signal
lamps are required, even though a hand and arm signal can be seen and the vehicle was manufactured or assembled prior to model
year 1960.
NOTE: Required turn signal lamps must be visible to the front and to the rear of the vehicle.
1. Electric turn signal lamp types:
a. Single-faced units.
b. Double-faced units.
c. Arrow-faced units.
d. Kits designed to be used in conjunction with the parking light assembly.

2. Electric turn signal lamp flashers. All open-faced and arrow-type turn signal lamps must flash on and off in order to clearly indicate
an intention to turn.
Turn signal lamps are required on those vehicles manufactured with a right-hand (steering wheel) drive, regardless of model year.
A single lamp (large double-faced unit) on each side of a truck-tractor, which is visible to the front and rear, will suffice for turn signal
lamps.
3. Turn signal lamp mounting. The lamps showing to the front shall be mounted on the same level and as widely spaced laterally as
practicable and, when signalling, shall emit a white or amber light or any shade of light between white and amber.
The lamps showing to the rear shall be mounted on the same level and as widely spaced laterally as practicable and, when signalling,
shall emit a red or amber light or any shade of color between red and amber.
Turn signal lamps on vehicles 80 inches or more in overall width shall be visible from a distance of not less than 500 feet to the front
and rear in normal sunlight.
Turn signal lamps may, but need not, be incorporated in other lamps on the vehicle.
Turn signal lamps shall indicate an intention to turn by flashing lamps showing to the front and rear of a vehicle. On a combination of
vehicles, turn signal lamps shall indicate an intention to turn by flashing lamps to that side of the vehicle or combination toward which
the turn is to be made.
Motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, and mopeds are not required to be equipped with turn signal lamps.
Semaphore or mechanical arm devices are not acceptable as turn signal lamps.
4. Inspection Procedure. Check operation and condition visually.
5. Inspect for and reject if:
a. Lamps are required and not present.
b. Device is not securely mounted or properly located on the vehicle.
c. Device is not of a type meeting Department standards.
d. Lamp lens is discolored or missing.
e. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short circuiting, or poor electrical connections.
f. Switch is not convenient to driver or indicator light does not operate.
g. Signal shows any color other than white or amber to the front, or signal shows any color other than red or amber to the rear.
h. Signal does not flash or is not operating properly.
i. Signal is not clearly visible to the front and to the rear of the vehicle.
j. Lens is cracked or broken to the extent that a portion of the lens is missing and/or separated, permitting light from the bulb to emit
through the crack or break.
NOTE: Selector switch must lock in proper turn position when applied but need not cancel automatically.
NOTE: Lamp lenses cannot be repaired with repair tape or repair kit

 

Thanks, I found the same thing. So far as far as I can tell the orignal car this one is based off of didnt have blinker indicators inside. I was just thinking do a verticle line of 3 indicator lights (blue, red, green) and just have one turn indicator.

I just dont know how the state would react cause they have "indicators" in plural form and some inspection shop might go nuts and take it to mean two are required.

Guess I can just build it and if I get any trouble just say "well the orignal didnt have indicators"

 

VW only used one indicator for the first two generations of Jetta, Fox, Rabbit, Golf, etc. If you wanted two indicators you got an Audi instead.

 

From what I understand the old Shelby Cobra roadsters had 1 turn signal for a period of time as well. I am going to go for it regardless. Theres just no nice way of fitting 4 indicator lights under the glare shield. Plus I already have to get a diode packet anyways since the adjustable fan thermostat relay kit has a bypass wire that is going to be wired into the power wire for the A/C compressor as well as a toggle switch on the dashboard for manual over ride.

For those that are curious this is the dash layout I am leaning towards.



Blue indicator = High Beams (wired directly into the headlight toggle switch up = high beam down = low beam)
Red indicator = multifunction indicator/warning lamp. This light will be plumbed into the parking brake as well as a oil pressure switch and coolant temp switch.
Green indicator is obviously the left/right turn indicator. The gauges also wont look like that. They will be custom gauges with custom text but thats the closest to the style I could find.

And gauges are from left to right, 8,000 rpm clockwise sweep tach, top row - coolant temperature / oil temperature / oil pressure, bottom row - fuel gauge / volt meter, and lastly the 180 mph counterclockwise sweep speedometer.

Only thing I am unsure of is the console light which would be a low mount plain steel license plate lamp painted black and the key switch. I dont know where to really mount the A/C & heat control panel which is three rotary *****. If they could be wired into toggle switches instead I could just put a couple toggle switches on each side of the key switch and still maintain that "race car" look.

 

the ford mustang, falcon, and comet only used one turn signal indicator light in the dash until the introduction of the 1966 model year

 

Now that you mention it, I remember my 1980 VW Dasher only had one turn indicator. Kinda funny, since it was actually an Audi body, and Audi engine (Diesel).
That car was essentially nothing more than an Audi Fox wagon with VW badges.


I don't know about Texas, but my buddy had no problem getting his Cobra replica inspected in Oklahoma with only one signal indicator. Getting the tag/title was another story, since we manufactured the whole thing in his garage, including the body and frame. Being the first ever "Kit car" to be produced from this "Manufacturer", he wasn't in the system as a recognised "Manufacturer" yet........
After he got the tag/title for his, everyone else who bought one had far less problems, since the manufacturer was *finally* in the system........

 

The only trouble I have seen from others here in tx is that the state keeps wanting to title these vehicles as the year they were built and then slap them with emission requirements. I was going to take and have mine titled in a small town and tell them its an assembled vehicle using a prefab body that way on the dso or what ever its called that is the ownership papers listing the year as 1965 will force them to list that as the year on the title.

 

Yeah, that was another thing that a few people had to deal with.

Humorous little sidenote to my buddy *finally* managing to get his titled. The state "Assigned" a VIN number to the car. This VIN had to be engraved into the door jamb, which was made of fiberglass (at least on "our" design). It could NOT be engraved into a metal plate that fastened to the jamb, but directly engraved into the "body".
Of course, as anyone knows, filling this in on a FG body is extremely easy. On the other hand, it simplified the process when he crashed the car and made a new body for it. Just engraved the same number into the new body, and the DMV was never any wiser......

 

I bet, FFR offers their own vin tag that you have engraved if the state will let you. I wasnt going to use theres but I was going to have a custom Shelby Cobra vin tag made up but instead of saying "built by shelby america" it would say "built by -----" with my name and it would just say "Cobra" underneath.

On this one the door jambs are all fiberglass as well. the only thing metal is the frame and door frames the body is just a fiberglass skin that bolts to the chassis. So I am going to try and see if I could get the state to let me use my own tag that I can poprivet to the footbox under the hood.

 

For a one light dash indicator, you could also use a 2 color LED to differentiate between sides.

 

Correct, I could go with a clear lens and go with two different colors and then in that case I wouldnt need the diodes to keep from backfeeding current from the flasher unit when on the left turn circuit over to the right turn circuit.

I will have to look into that, I wouldnt mind a clear indicator lens with two different colored LED`s. Not like I would use the blinkers alot anyways.

 

I'm not a huge fan of FFR's product. The fit and finish weren't up to the standards we used. However, they are a great value for what you get.
Just as an FYI, the kit car I was refering to earlier was the first of several that we produced. FFR was always one of the main competitors mentioned by prospective buyers, as their product was lower priced. Our design had a frame that was, honestly, overkill. Of course, backing a kit car into a tree at 70 MPH isn't something that is *usually* repairable, but we managed to prove it could be done........
Of course, not many kit cars ever see the upper side of 50K miles, and that one was showing 75K when the speedo quit, 2 years before the tree incident. People always gave us funny looks when it was raining, cause we were running around in a car with no roof. Once we even stopped at a quik-stop, and asked for a bar of soap........ Water pouring out of the doors when we opened them, just added to the humorous sight.

Back on topic. A 2 color led sounds much simpler to wire up, compared to the diode method. Wish we had thought of it.....