85' 460 EGR removal questions
#1
85' 460 EGR removal questions
I just bought a complete running carburated 460 out of a 1985 f-250 from fan to bellhousing and looking to install in my 72 F-250 4x4 to replace the tired 390. I want to remove the air pumps and EGR equip. (no emissions testing where I live) I have a edelbrock 750cfm carb and looking a purchasing a Weiand or Edelbrock non EGR intake as well as L&L ultra flow headers. What complications or problems might I run into? whats the best way to block off where the crossover tube goes into the back of both heads? Can I install a mechanincal fuel pump without problems?
thanks
thanks
#2
If I remember right, you can take the tubes out and plug them with expansion plugs, I think that's what they're called, (they look like small frost plugs). The mechanical fuel pump is doable how easy it is depends on what did away with when they switched to an electric fuel pump. If it has a block off plate bolted on where the pump goes then that's an easy one, if it doesn't then you'll probably need an old timing chain housing that has the opening for the fuel pump and the threaded bolt holes. You'll also need the eccentric cam that bolts to the top timing chain gear and maybe a longer bolt. It might be easier to just put an electric inline fuel pump in, like a Carter or a Holley on the frame close to the tank.
#3
How did you make out with the engine running with no emission controls? I have a 1985 460 that someone took most of the emissions off of and it will not drive when cold. After it idles and heats up a while it's ok. It will also overheat on the interstate but is ok driving through town. Just wondering if you had any similar issues or if anyone has any ideas.
#4
#5
#6
Electric choke is probably the stock carb for that engine. Vacuum advance should have vacuum at idle on that system if I remember correctly, I'm pretty sure i have to pull the line off to set timing. If it doesn't have vaccum at idle, run the engine speed up a bit (you can open the throttle a bit and raise the end of the fast idle cam to hold it) and see if you have vacuum then. If not, then you will need to see if the vacuum diagram on the radiator support is still legible. If you can't read it, let me know, I have a new one for mine and can scan it. Once you have vacuum, when disconnecting the line, the engine should slow down, reconnect and it should speed up. If it does not, then try applying vacuum directly to the advance unit, it should hold vacuum, if it doesn't, replace it. If it does, remove the distributor cap and see if the pickup assembly moves when vacuum is applied. Timing should be 8 degrees before TDC at 800 rpm with no vacuum. Be sure you are on the correct end of the scale, most of them run both directions from TDC. Hopefully, you don't have a radiator problem.
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