I can't figure out the problem with my extended cab door. Driver's side doesn't open with either door handle. Anybody else have this problem?

 

What do you mean by either handle? Far as I can recall, there is only one?

If you pull the handle and it feels loose and nothing happens, sounds like somethin came loose on the inside and you'll probably have to pull the door apart and take a look.

 

I think he means the inside handle and the one in the door jam.
one of the cable ends finally wore out. It happened to me. take apart the door Like Lisa said and sometimes if you pull the cable tight then pull the handle, it will open.
The are over $100 from the dealer. comes as a cable/latch assembly.
I still haven't replaced mine, the door rattles a bit, but it opens.

 

My passenger door is the same way..

 

How do you take the door apart?
Do you drill the rivets out of the handle on the door jam?

 

Let me go look, its been a while...
Ok, take out the two screws that hold the window latch and the top panel will pop off. Remove the two (or is it three? ) screws on the top lip of the lower panel. the rest is held on by clips, just pop off the lower panel and your in.
You can do all of this from the back seat with the rear door closed.

 

Thank you for the help! I was hoping it was easy like the front door panels.

 

No prob Its not too bad, paying for the new cable is the worst part.

 

I am in the process of trying to repair my super cab rear pass. door.
I've got the panels off and pulled the top cable to get the door open.
Now taking the top latch off I got two of the three torques bolts out
but the bottom one won't budge. I've spayed WD40 on it even tapped
the torque fitting in but it won't move only stripped the bolt out.
What can I d besides grinding it off ? Drill it out or what ?
I'm at a loss a to how to proceed so any help is appreciated !
Thanks,
Robert

 

Never mind, I drilled it out and got the latch and cable out.
I found a E Bay for around $75 which I will order.
Thanks again

 

Glad you got it out. If you have one of those 90 degree swivel head breaker bars next time try applying pressure in the loosening direction while smacking the back side of the bar directly above the bit and fastener. Don't be afraid to smack it pretty hard several times. This will almost always break the torque with out stripping out the head. Course you have to do this before its stripped out. If you have already stripped it out sometimes the next size up bit will fit just enough to get the job done. Wouldn't do this with a ratchet as you'll end up with a handful of ratchet parts.

 

When my doors would not open. Looked at all the videos and read the post. But when I got both doors apart notice the ends were snapped but the cables them selves were not broken or frayed. Door would not open so I tried just pulling the cable to the side and making it a tighter pull.Cable was same length but now tighter to pull.It worked the door opened. So took some bailing wire drilled a small hole and tied the cable off to the door frame. Both doors work fine. That was about two years ago, today one door the bottom cable had the same problem and the same cable situation not broken or frayed just the top and bottom plastic pieces were broken so did the same tie off and the door works just fine. bailing wire and duck tape fix about any thing LOL. If both ends are just cracked and broken the plastic pieces only try it. Just a thought

 

Is there a difference between the F-250 extended cab and the F-250 super duty extended cab upper rear door cables ?
I can get the F-250 at a reasonable price but the F-250 super duty is way high.
Why can I just use the F-250 one ?
Thanks

 

I just ordered these for my Ranger.......they are CNC machined Billet Aluminum made in the USA!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F150-F250-F350-Truck-Door-Handle-Cable-Ends-Repair-Kit-8-Ends-2B6A-/251678043931?hash=item3a992e2f1b&vxp=mtr