I'm trying to find a drive shaft for my truck. It has a stock rear end and a 3 speed over drive trans with the slide in yoke. From the u-joint on the rear to the tail of the trans is about 51". I also need the yoke. Any ideas? So far I've been quoted $300.00. Seems a bit steep.

Thanks!

 

I was able to find a longer shaft with one correct end at a salvage yard, then found the other end, took both pices to a machine shop, with measurments, then they cut it down and placed the new end and balanced it.
Hope this helps you some.

 

Ouch! $300 bucks? That has to be for a complete driveshaft built to your specs. I am running an 8.8 rear and a C6 trans. Pulled a driveshaft out of the Explorer for 15 bucks at pull a parts and a local shop will cut it for 50 dollars. I also had to buy the slip in front yoke and was lucky enough to grab one off Epay for $35.00. So less than a $100 dollars total. My measurement from flange of rearend to end of Trans housing was 54 inches. I think you would do just as well to go this route as to have one custom made. Save that money for something else. Oh as a side note. I went to 3 different parts stores (2 major chain stores and 1 mom and pops store) and could not get a slip yoke for a C6 trans. So if you go to the pull-A-parts for yours try to grab one with the correct yokes. They are pricey on the internet.

 

I have 2 stock driveshafts for a 272--and 4 speed.
I have 2 driveshafts for 272 and ---3 speed
I have 1 driveshaft for 223---and 3 speed.
If any of these will work....let me know.

 

Almost forgot....I have several 1956 f600 driveshafts complete.
If any of these fit....let me know

 

I crawled under the truck tonight and took some measurements. From the rear yoke where the u-joint fits, to the tip of the trans output shaft is 51". The output shaft measures about 1 1/4", with 28 splines. Anything close? I may have found one in my neck o' the woods. Will let you know.

Thanks!

 

To get an accurate measurement for a driveshaft, you really need the trans slip yoke in place. Install the slip yoke until it bottoms out, then pull it back out 1", and measure the distance, center to center, between the u-joint holes in the slip yoke and the rear diff pinion yoke. That number is considered the length of the driveshaft.

 

This would require that I had the slip yoke........which I don't. I'm looking for that also. I have the drive shaft that was on the 4 speed in the truck and I know it can be shortened and have the correct end installed to fit the yoke......if I could find a yoke! I'm trying to do it the easier/cheaper way of finding the drive shaft that would've been in the truck that had this set-up. Someone out there swapped out this stuff for a 350/350, 9 inch rear end combo and has it sitting in the back of their garage! I'm looking for THAT guy!! LOL

 

Mike,Summit Racing and i think Speedway Motors has them.
i think Summit was $50.00.maybe have a look see,they may work for you.

 

I measured my 56 panel with OD and the drive shaft from center to center of each U- joint is 48" (this does not include yoke measurement, this is shaft ONLY)

 

Yep, that sound about right for mine too! I scored a drive shaft with the right yoke today for $25. Just need to get it cut to 48" and I'm in business!!

Thanks for the info!

 

Hey Mike, I am at work now but will check in the morning. I have a 28 spline slip yoke that came on the drive shaft I pulled from an explorer. I needed a 31 spline to fit the C6 I installed. It uses the 1330 universal joint. Not sure of the diameter. If it will work you can have it. I'll shoot you a PM tomorrow after I check the diameter and get your shipping info. EDIT: Should have finished reading the rest of the post! Glad you found one.

 

No problem! Thanks for the thought!

 

My local NAPA has a machine shop, welded up and balenced my supplied parts for $150.

Don't overlook the locals!

 

If you can cut with a hacksaw and weld it's not that hard to shorten the driveshaft yourself. I make my own driveshafts and it's a process I've done a number of times.

Look for weights spot welded to the shaft for balancing in the area you want to remove and avoid cutting those off. You can usually cut from either end but if you have a shaft that changes diameter midway through be sure you will have enough length left of the correct diameter to weld the end back on after shortening. Remove the U-joints and start by cutting off the welded end on the shaft side of the weld using a hacksaw or if there are balancing weights there cut the other end. What you want to do is cut and turn cut and turn. Make the cut about 1/16 to 1/8 inch deep and then knock the end out of the tube with a hammer. Then cut how many inches you need to off the tube. I always wrap a piece of light straight edge cardboard around the tube and tape it in place to be sure I cut the tube straight. Lay the hacksaw blade right up next the the cardboard and turn and cut turn and cut. When you have the tube cut to the correct length tap the end back into the tube. Be sure to phase it with the other end. Run a bead around the end to weld it back on, re-install new U-joints and you are done. Most of the time the shaft will not require balancing. If it does you can always have a driveline shop balance it for you which is a lot less expensive than having them make it for you. I've done about a half dozen of these and have only had to have one balanced...