Hey guys - been out for a while. Hoping one of you can help me. My 350 v10 has a no crank no start. About 4 months ago it wouldn't start, turn the key and nothing. I replaced the starter and it was fine. 2 or 3 times since the starter replacement it has no crank no start, try again and its fine. A guy I know with a 250 told me that it was the nuetral safety switch in the first place that is probably never needed a starter. Now the truck has a no crank no start. I replaced the nuetral safety switch and it didn't help. I also know that the timing of the switch is crucial. I lined up the marks on the switch to the nuetral position with the truck in nuetral and tightened it down, to no avail. any one have anything to add?? Anything would be greatly appreciated.

 

I assume you check the usual culprits? Battery charge level(at least 13v after a fresh charge, 12 v is too low), clean and tight connections on battery and starter and any associated connectors you can find.

No crank usually means the battery is dead, or the connections are corroded, or there is something wrong with the start circuit/comptuer.

Does the truck do anything when you turn the key? Dash ligfht up? Do the head lights burn bright?

Does it crank on a jump start?

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

Thanks Jim - I did check the usual stuff and all looks ok. When you turn the key, electrically the truck comes to life. All of the guages come up, the fuel pump cycles and the hvac system does what it should. There is nothing at the starter. One more tidbit I just thought of.... if you jump the connections at the starter it spins fine but does not throw the bendix drive out to hit the flywheel. I don't know if there is enough of a voltage drop so the starter cant throw the bendix drive or if I have more of a issue than I am aware of.

 

I think I may have found it. The positive battery cable is coming apart in my hands. I have one coming in tomorrow from ford. Is this normal?

 

When you jumpt the connection to the starter and the bendix doesn't engage, where are you getting the power from? I would re-run this test with power from another vehicle, not the truck battery....

 

I went to ford and asked for a positive cable. At the parts persons suggestion I replaced both positive and negative cable assemblies ($300). The price floored me but the truck started right up!!!!!