I have another thread on tools for this but, I thought a discussion on the actual installation might be appreciated by others too.

I found this old thread about setting the IP timing which mentions a little of the install procedure for a new IP; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tallation.html But I know that most of you set your timing by ear without the fancy tools. Let's hear your experience.

Perhaps we could mull over some of the simpler procedures for the less experienced of us here.

One question I would like confirmation on is the drive gear alignment; I get that the IP is like the distributor in an gas engine and, that aligning the cam and drive gears with TDC on #1 cylinder is critical, but I am unsure about the IP alignment with the drive gear. If I align the "y"s on the drive gear and the IP cog along with the alignment dowel with #1 cyl TDC , all will be good? Do I need the dowel or can I use a punch or other small bar? The manual didn't really go into detail on installing and aligning the IP gear on a new IP. It referred to making your own alignment marks during disassembly but nothing on a new IP alignment. At least not in the IP section, I'll read other sections to see if it's elsewhere. but, you would think that a new IP alignment would at least be referenced in the IP section.... Maybe drive gear or timing or.....

Also what type of after market gasket goop is best for the drive gear cover? I really don't want to spend the 500% markup at the dealer for some gasket sealer, or anything else for that matter. Not if I can help it.

Plus what else might I need that isn't mentioned in the manual that only experience can tell us about??

Inquiring Minds Want To Know....

 

That depends on how you removed the IP.

If you removed the IP from the IP drive gear cover and left the drive gear meshed with the cam gear and the IP drive gear cover installed you are already in time with the gears.
The dowel is part of the IP drive shaft, it will only go in in the correct position.

If you removed the four bolts holding the drive gear cover and lifted everything off the job just got harder.

Try these directions.

If you change the IP, the important thing is DO NOT REMOVE THE IP DRIVE GEAR COVER.

Remove the air cleaner.
Remove the two bolts holding the plate below the oil fill spout.
Then remove the three 5/16" 12 point bolts that hold the gear to the IP drive shaft.
Remove the wires from all three electrical connections.
Remove the return line from the fitting on top of the IP.
Remove the fuel supply line from the filter header to the IP.
Loosen all the injector supply lines at the injectors.
Unhook the throttle cable frojm the IP.
Now remove the three 9/16" nuts that hold the IP to the drive gear cover.
Work the IP toward the rear, tilting the rear of the IP up as you move it back.
With a little finesse you should be able to raise the rear of the IP with the injection lines still attached.
The entire IP and injection line assembly should come out in one piece looking like a butterfly.

Does the new truck have a turbo on it?
The turbo does make it harder to remove the IP, the passenger side injection lines and the turbo need to be in the same place at the same time, but it can be done.

After it is removed, notice the alignment dowel on the IP input shaft.
Look where the slot for the dowel is on your engine, turn the shaft so they will line up when you reinstall the IP.

Care should be taken to not unmesh the IP drive gear from the cam drive gear, that throws the injection timing off.
To many people remove the four bolts holding the IP drive gear cover down and lift the gear, drive gear cover and IP out together.
Getting the gear back in the right place is tricky without removing the front of the engine to see timing marks.

Install is the reverse of removal.

 

As usual you Rock Dave!

That; "DO NOT REMOVE THE IP DRIVE GEAR COVER", statement is about as succinct as can be stated. Thanks for the excellent tip.

No turbo but here but, you may want to mention that sequence for those pre power stroke turbos reading this.... What is your opinion of the need for an IP Mounting Wrench and a Injector wrench? The Injector lines connecting at the IP have a torque setting, I thought I could set them by hand then use a crow foot wrench to the torque wrench for the proper fp #.

Aside from a new IP O-ring, I feel ready to not F up my truck and get it running dependably.

Anybody have anything to add???

The title could make this a good search result. So add your two cents, tell us your IP replacement experience......

I mean we can't be done here, can we?

Isn't changing and adjusting the Injection Pump a really hard an technical job for a home mechanic to try?

Dave makes it sound so easy.... and fun.

 

Actually on a NA motor it is rather easy.

Turbo motors are just a little harder.

If you do it yourself you will be saving cash, when is that not fun?

 

I got the IP in ok.... I had to fetch a torqs bit and a 5/16 12pt socket and tap some mounting holes clean but, it's in.

Of course Murphy reared his ugly head once more and now I can't get the engine to start.
I'm heading back to the truck now, it's at a friend's house cause the condo ***** won't let me work on the truck where I live. I'm gonna try to move the IP timing and flush any air in the fuel lines but I figure I'll ask for tips now in case none of that works.

The truck ran fine before the IP change, so I should be able to get her running.
I know one of the next checks will be the batteries but what else could be a problem???
The starter is fine too.

 

I hope this thread will be helpful for others in need. The title alone will show in alot of searches.

I got the new Injector Pump installed with little problem. I didn't have a 5/16 socket on my 12 point socket rail and, the screws holding the cold advance solenoid were a torqs bit which was back at my garage and, the last problem was the screw holes in the new IP to mount the cold advance solenoid needed the threads cleaned up, which was another trip.

But all in all the procedure went smooth..... until I tried to start it, which it hasn't done yet.

I found these tips at dieselmann's site, dieselmann's Page ;

Injection Pump replacement tips:

• Make a reference mark on the pump and upper timing cover if the same pump is being reinstalled. When reinstalling the pump, realign the marks.
• Inspect the fuel suppy line seals and replace them as necessary.
• On E-vans, remove the RH seat for easier access. Also remove the fuel filter and housing as a unit for more room.
• Remove the pump with the injector lines attached. On 7.3 engines there is a timing adapter on injector #1 (F-Series) or #4 (E-Van), hold this with a back-up wrench when removing that line.
• Replace the injector return cap o-rings while the pump is off if needed.
• On engines equipped with a turbocharger, remove the pump upper mounting stud to allow for more maneuvering room.
• Remove and install the injection pump inlet fitting into the new pump; replace the o-ring if necesssary.
• Seal the threads of the injector return line fitting with Loctite 515 Gasket Eliminator or PST.
• Do not remove the injection pump outlet/check valve fitting and install it into the new pump.
• On E-vans, adjust the FIPL sensor (E4OD trans) on the bench before installing the pump.
• When installing the pump, use a phillips screwdriver or slim line-up punch to align the pump shaft with the gear. Start the gear screws into the pump shaft before installing the mounting nuts.
• Start the injector line nuts onto the injectors before tightening the mounting nuts.
• Don't mount the cold idle kicker solenoid until the pump timing has been set.
• If the pump is being replaced, advance it counter clockwise as far as it will go then tighten the mounting nuts. This will make dynamic timing (while running) adjustments easier later. If dynamic timing is not available, set the pump to the center of its adjustment range, or line up any reference marks on the pump and timing cover.
• If the twelve-point heads of pump shaft to gear bolts round off, they can be replaced with bolts from NAPA's u-joint hardware kit P/N 331-10.
• Leave the injector lines loose until you're ready to start the engine.
• When re-starting the engine, connect a battery charger to one battery and disable the glow plug system to prevent glow plug damage.
• Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the cold advance solenoid to help purge air from the pump.
• Crank the engine over in 60 second intervals and tighten each injector line nut as fuel appears at each injector.
• Recommend using a non-alcohol fuel conditioner to control water and algae and promote lubricity.

All those tips about the restart procedure are exactly what I didn't do..... I sure hope I didn't jack up the GPs but it never mentioned any of this in the fuqin manual!!

I had the batteries load tested today and they are good, the starter is fairly new and since the truck ran before, it should start right up.... Right???

Any more tips for my no start after a new IP install, problem?

Anyone?

 

crack a couple injector lines and turn it over.you will hear it try to take off then tighten the line and fire it up.

 

Once you get the air out of the IP and fill it with fuel, you should be good to go.

 

Yeah, you would think..... But I'm such a friggin noob that I've been running on only three glow plugs since I bought the dagum truck.

All is well now, as we speak the big bitch has a full set of all new Mopar glow plugs.
(don;t let her know I called her a bitch, it might **** her off....)

 

I NEVER US MY GP any i crank for maybe 5 sconds and bam she lives

 

Good thread title, perfect for search results!
Things to check if it's been cranking for while and you're nervous it's not going to start...

-Fill the fuel filter up with fuel before cranking sessions wear you out waiting for that fuel to show up. I filled mine with new Automatic Transmission Fluid...I didn't have clean diesel available. Don't worry though, ATF burns nicely.
-Use a small philips screwdriver and push the Schrader valve on the fuel filter assembly. It looks like a bicycle tire valve. This will bleed some air out of the filter.
-As stated earlier, keep your injector lines loose at the injectors. When fuel bubbles out, tighten them up. Careful, make sure they're only a wrench turn loose! I made the mistake of having them a few wrench turns too loose. Truck started, ran on 3 cylinders, with fuel spraying all over the place. Took WAY too long to tighten the injector lines before it smoothed out.
-When re-starting your engine after changing your Injector Pump, be careful cranking! 20 second cranking/2 minutes cooling. Starters are expensive, let it cool down between cranking.

That's all 6.9 stuff. The 7.3 has a different fuel filter assembly, not sure if there's a shrader valve. Otherwise, everything's the same.

Don't get frusturated. It WILL start eventually!