I have a 62 Unibody I want to do a disc break swap and maybe suspension. My questions are is there write up out there that I could read and do this myself from other ford vechiles, that goes for brakes and suspension. Also anyone ever swap a 351 C just want to know if someone makes motor mounts or what they used thanks guys I am knew and can use the help. I want to do the work in few months when I return from Iraq thanks Josh

 

No stock ford disc brake components fit the straight axle spindles as a bolt on. The aftermarket uses a ford rotor and a GM caliper on a bracket.

To use a ford caliper the bracket needs to be cast. This means the kit will triple in price, so no one makes one as it is not economical.

There are no bolt on suspensions that do not require fabrication either.

351C mounts are a common aftermarket small block cross member. They are provided by most vendors. You will also need to remove the old bell housing mount and add a small block transmission and transmission cross member.

Garbz

 

I am wondering then, have you seen the after market kits such as mustang II and such are they worth the cash since they come with everything. What tranny should I be looking for as I bought the 351C for 200 but no trans also what rear end do you run Grabz2?? Anyone else care to chime in

 

what size engines where in the 62 style side trucks and what is the going price on a restorable one

 

i am looking for a 1977 long bed f250 for parts

 

All 1961/64 F100/350's:

The 223 I-6 was standard equipment.

The 262 I-6 & 292 2V were optional.

 

Josh,
I have a 1961 uni with stock drum brakes that stops straight and on a dime. I can't see a reason to go to disks other than they don't fade as quickly if you are really using them hard.
Randy

 

Here's the reasons to switch to discs.

1957/67 F100: The front brake shoes are 11" x 2" / The rear brake shoes are 11" x 1 3/4"

These puny brakes were barely adequate for 1960's traffic.

Today...with the increased traffic, it's a different story, these drum brakes are dangerous!
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Disc brakes shed water, stopping even after going thru deep puddles of water is EZ.

With drum brakes, once the shoes get wet...you cannot stop!

Once the brake shoes get wet, you have to ride the brake pedal to burn off the water...and that may be impossible...depending on conditions.

Over 60% of the braking on these trucks is done with the front brakes.

 

Bill,
I agree that wet braking may be a problem but I can't see that that they would be much help in dry conditions as I can lock up the and skid the tires at any time . Not that I would want to as that would increase the stopping distance! Also I don't haul a big payload which could make a huge difference. Brakes are only as good as the tires coefficient of friction. if you can skid the tires bigger brakes won't make any difference. I'm more worried about being rear ended buy a teen on a cell phone than hitting someone.
Randy

 

I do not recommend any MII based suspensions for 4000# plus trucks.

A C4 or C6 with the correct small block bell pattern will do the trick. The C4 would be the better choice but needs to be built correctly. The C6 is more heavy duty but robs abut 40 HP more than the C4 in getting things going.

I run a 65 9" housing with a back brace. I have 3.25s, 3.00s and 2.75to play around with after i get it on the road for shakedown.

Garbz

 

The idea is to apply the brakes and dissipate heat. Stomp the drums hard twice in 100 feet and hold on as you hit what ever is in front of you. Its called fade due to heat generation. Out gassing of the shoe materials actually makes a barrier between the iron drum and the shoe effectively having no brakes.

Tires? rubber is rubber and only so much of it can be on the road at a given time. It is the swept area of the rotor or drum and the bleed off of the heat generated that decries braking ability/force not the tires.

Modern disc/drum braking systems use a proportioning valve to achieve a brake bias to prevent the rear wheels from locking up prior to the fronts. Drum/ Drum does not have this and will lock up the first drum with the least resistance. which means in a panic stop only one may lock and swing you ***** nilly.

The greatest saftey upgrade you can do to a slick is install a disc/drum braking system.

Garbz

 

Suggest you post this under the "Wanted" category under the 1973-79 "Swap Meet".

 

Check out this link.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...o-67-f100.html

 

One more reason the old brakes suck. If you blow out a wheel cylinder you might have enough brakes to make one more stop. If you blow out the single plunger in the master cylinder, you better hope the E brake works (another rarity on these trucks).

Also, I used to run through a creek on the way home, no brakes for a few miles down the road until the drums dry out.