2.3 shutters/shakes around 1800 rpms
#1
2.3 shutters/shakes around 1800 rpms
1994 ranger w/ 2.3 spd. had the truck a few years now and the thing has always shutters around 1800ish rpms. If you ease through first gear, it will start shaking when it hits a certain rpms and loose power. My bud had the same truck and it had alot more power than this one does so there is a significant power loss w/ this problem. I"m almost positive i don't have a cam sensor. I've replaced my ignition control module already w/ the same problem carried over. I've swapped coils, replaced ignition wires and the plugs haven't been in there but maybe 8,000 miles. The crank sensor is the only other related item that i haven't replaced b/c it cost money and i've never seen a crank sensor have these symptoms at all. Anyone else ever had this problem? I've also flushed injectors and intake plenum and hasn't changed the condition.
#3
#4
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Ahh, the plot thickens...
"Code 211:
Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall."
That basically means it could be anything in the ignition system. First I would check for loose wires/bad connections by unplugging, checking and cleaning the ignition connectors. Put dielectric grease on all connections, wiggle all wires, clear the code from the computer and test drive it. If it's still doing it, look next at the TFI module on the distributor. Pull it off and check the heat sink grease underneath it, if it's dried up and cracked looking then the module has probably run hot and is most likely the source of the problem. If you have access to another known good one from virtually any Ford vehicle with TFI ignition, you could swap it out to try it before buying another.
Once you have eliminated the ignition module as a source of the problem, try replacing the ignition pick-up coil which is located in the distributor.
"Code 211:
Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall."
That basically means it could be anything in the ignition system. First I would check for loose wires/bad connections by unplugging, checking and cleaning the ignition connectors. Put dielectric grease on all connections, wiggle all wires, clear the code from the computer and test drive it. If it's still doing it, look next at the TFI module on the distributor. Pull it off and check the heat sink grease underneath it, if it's dried up and cracked looking then the module has probably run hot and is most likely the source of the problem. If you have access to another known good one from virtually any Ford vehicle with TFI ignition, you could swap it out to try it before buying another.
Once you have eliminated the ignition module as a source of the problem, try replacing the ignition pick-up coil which is located in the distributor.
#5
everything has dielectric grease on it. This is distributor-less. 2 coil packs like on the 4.6 but this has the dual spark plug per cyl. The control module has been replaced w/ the same problem carrying over. Also installed used crank sensor today w/ the same problem carrying also. Not sure what else there is. The cam hole in the block has a block plate on it so theres no cam sensor at least in that spot and i read somewhere that the 94 model 2.3's didn't have a cam sensor. So I'm pretty much stumped now. The truck has never stalled on me except when i was in a hurry on the clutch. But it has always shook at this particular rpm. It doesn't do it under a load but only does it when it's in a gear and you match trans/eng rpm's just coasting. Still seems to have an awful time tryin to climb hills too. Very low on torque. Dont' think i mentioned this before but i removed the cat due to a split casing and just straight piped it so thats also been eliminated as a restriction from a collapsed honeycomb in the exhaust. Any other ideas??
#6
Make sure the crank bolt didn't come loose. I have had this happen on several vehicles, the crank bolt starts backing out and then the key or keyway gets a bit worn, and the crank position sensor won't get a correct reading.
Be sure to also check the ring carefully for cracks, chipped/broken teeth, and debris.
Be sure to also check the ring carefully for cracks, chipped/broken teeth, and debris.
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