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Does anyone know where I can get a diagram to check my vacuum lines? I replaced both the right and left IWE actuaries the noise went away however I believe one of my lines cracked?? I'm trying to do myself or should I have them replaced by professionals?? Thank you , Kylie

 

As .many have said the replacement of the IWE is about as easy as new brake pads.. Couple things I have found out as I have done a few. 1. donèt use a ball joint fork, just back off the nut to the top thread and give it a couple good wacks with a two pound hammer, same with tie rod joint. (this will save the boot)..2. donèt take the shaft off from flat . After you remove shaft nut from the rotor also take the IWE
bolts out (3). Now after prying up the IWE remove shaft end and IWE from hub as one unit. Reinstall as one unit by slipping the IWE up the shaft giving you room to insert the shaft into the hub. Also before freezing weather using the vaccume line from each IWE suck in a bit of dry gass to remove mosture and any dust.. This is a $120 part and 30 min. each job.. Tell that to your dealer!!

 

Good points! I never used a ball joint fork when i had my stuff apart. I always used a mini sledge and never had a problem with it coming apart.

 

Kmsalvadore, i dont have an exact diagram, but one thing you can do to track down a leak is find the conections where you lines disconnect in various areas so now you have isolated sections of the vacuum lines off. Now get yourself a good vacuum guage/bleeder kit at the parts store and take one line section at a time and plug one end and apply vacuum to the other. See if the vacuum slowly bleeds off using the guage on the pump. If you have a leak somewhere that guage will show you. A quick easy way to check the whole thing just to see if you have a leak is turn the truck off and crawl under the front of the truck and pull off the line from one of the IWEs, apply vacuum and see if it bleeds off. If it doesnt then your fine. If it does then the first thing i would try is checking th check valves in the lines, if one of these check valves are bad, which alot of people have run into, they will let vacuum to flow back and forth from the intake, allowing you vacuum to drop enough at times to try and engage the IWEs. The thing i did when i first did this way back when was i went to the parts store and bought a whole bunch of bulk vacuum line and ran all new vacuum lines everywhere from the solenoid to the wheels. I didnt run it where the original ones where, i ran them in the engine compartment where i could easily get to them if needed.

 

my 05 FX4 is starting to make a whine/grind on the front pass. side. is it possible for the solenoid to be the problem if its only happening on one side?

when in 2wd it does the whine/grind, put into 4wd and it stops. will check the vac. line's and check valve this weekend.

 

If you can turn on the 4x4, and the grinding stops, then comes back minutes later, you need checkvalves,.

 

nope, once i turn the 4x4 on it goes away and dose not come back.

 

checked a few things tonight

checked the check valves and they seem fine, pulled the line off where it
attaches behind the wheel and there seems to be good vacuum.(didnt check
with gauge.)

took it around the block and it still does the whining then stops once put in
4wd. i was going to replace the solenoid just for good measure but it should
be bad if the driver side is ok and the 4wd works right?

not sure if this matters but i jacked up the pass side and while in 2wd i could
turn the wheel but in 4wd i could not. im not sure what they are called but when in 2wd and i turn the wheel i could see what i would call the front drive shaft that goes from the wheel to the case turning?

 

06 f150 FX4,
I had the grinding noise for about a week... kept getting worse the just stopped all of a sudden... gas mileage dropped like i was towing 6 tons!!! seems like you guys have figured out what the problem is... i'll be going through all the checks tomorrow...
one other thing is happening though that no one has gone over yet. when i put it in 4Whi the dummy light comes on.... but no 4wd... doesnt engage... i hear a little 'click' from underneath but nothing happens... then i'll throw it down to 4w lo and no light comes on and no 'click' and no 4wd... could this be the switch motor i saw earlier in the tread? are these issuse related?? or just happening at the same time.... thanks guys

 

well i got a new solenoid from the ford dealer and put it on this afternoon... jacked up both tires and checked everything... the entire system is working properly and hold the vaccum... and my 4x4 HI works.... but when i switch it into 4x4 LO nothing happens and no dummy light. any ideas?????

 

There is a proper procedure for changing into and out of 4 Lo, check your manual, or in the sun visor, i dont know where exactly the procedure is, ive never used 4 lo in any of my trucks ever.

 

OK guys, i have a totally different problem. My 2005 works in AWD confirmed by all 4 tires spinning on ice but will not shift into 4WD HI or 4WD LO. I'm guessing it's the shift motor and when i get done changing oil in a bit i will rap the motor with a nylon hammer a few times to see if it will work. The fuse and relay in the passenger kick panel are good. Is there anything between there and the motor besides the dash switch? Is the motor more prone to going out than the switch??

 

OK, I finished up in the shop and rapped on the motor assy. with a small ball-peen hammer 3 different times and the trasfer case still won't shift. No lights, nothing. Took it out in the snow in AWD, eased into the throttle and then punched it and the front wheels are spinning so my IWE's are working fine. Down to a motor i guess unless there are some ralays i don't know about as when i switch between any of the ranges i can hear the vacuum switch on the passenger firewall click. Opinions???

 

If your 4WD is physically working but the lights just arent coming on, i dont really know. Unless the bulbs for those lights arent working. If the transfer case switch motor wasnt working correctly then you wouldnt have 4WD, but since you do, i guess its possible that the switch motor could be working partially to the point where it engages the 4WD, but not engaging the trigger for the lights on the dash. I think ive seen that problem on here before.

 

From what i am gathering, AWD does not used the shift motor to actuate. This is why i have AWD but when i flip to 4WD i have nothing........