The emissions parts have to match whatever the Calibration Code is, otherwise the vehicle will not run correctly, and it will not pass smog.

Did you remove all the emissions related parts from the old engine, install them on the rebuilt engine?

If you bought a rebuilt engine with no smog parts on it, why did you change the computer?

Since you changed the computer, now the Calibration Code is prolly not the same.

Did you match the replaced emissions parts with the computer you now have?

This is a CA vehicle, which has unique emissions parts that are different than the other 49 states required.

You just can't install something an autoparts store says is correct for the particular year. The emissions parts must match the Calibration Code.

What is the Ford engineering ID number off the replaced computer? What was the trucks original Calibration Code?

I had a customer once who installed a 302 complete engine from a 1987 Cougar into a 1983 Cougar, and he did not get the computer from the 1987.

It cost him well over 1000 bucks to install the correct emission parts, so the vehicle could pass CA smog.

 

parts store sold me the wrong waterpump for my mustang, I needed a reverse rotation pump, they sold me the other one, made symptoms like yours, mabe that's it

 

I bought an '87 302 rebuilt long block. I took all of my original smog pieces that came on my truck in the factory and put them on my new motor.... it's exactly the same. The computer makes no difference, same exact driveability and same exact code. I pulled the computer from a 91 302, AOD, bank injectors and California Emmissions - just like mine, just a 91 instead of an 87.

Paul

 

Boy, that would suck if they sold me the wrong one.... Do you remember, if it cooled the motor at all? I mean it keeps it cool 90% of the time and I get perfect heat inside as well..... Do you think that would still do that well if it was reversed?

Paul

 

The computer makes no difference?

BS...the computer makes all the difference in the world, because if the Calibration Code is not the same, the parts will not be the same.

Who do you think would know what is correct? Yourself with ZERO Ford parts experience and ZERO Ford expertise, or someone who spent 35 years as a Ford partsman in CA?

I dealt with these issues every day, and I know that once the Calibration Code is changed, you are SOL...just like the guy with that '83 Cougar.

 

I put the original computer back in and no difference. Sorry, I didn't mean to offend you, but I was told by many people that as long as the motor, trans, MAP vs. MAF, and Calif vs non Calif was correct, the computer would work....

Paul

Paul

 

If many people told you to jump off the Golden Gate Bridge, would you do it?

You aren't offending me, I don't give a hoot one way or another what you do, all I was trying to do was give you the facts.

Good luck getting it smogged with that Frankenstein computer.

 

Like I said, I switched it back out and put in the ORIGINAL unit. I believe you on the computer, but the problem still exists.....

Paul

 

Update: Verified the thermostat was in correctly. I burped the radiator for an hour tonight...that's right an hour.... I had the truck idle for an hour while I watched the coolant in the radiator bubble and go down....kept refilling it.... after about 30 minutes it didn't do too much more, just wanted to make sure. I drove it about a mile or two and checked the coolant tank... IT DIDN'T EXPLODE.... but, when I turned off the truck, there were still about 15 seconds of small bubbles that came up through the reservoir (but much less than before).... so I'm not totally convinced that i still don't have a head gasket leak, but it is definitely better... oh and the temperature went up to 192 and stayed there...didn't go over 195, so that's good too.

I will be taking it to a mechanic tomorrow to make sure no combustion gases are in my coolant and to check out my code 44....

PS. It drove and acted EXACTLY the same with the original computer back in.

Anybody have an suggestions/comments/thoughts?

Paul

 

These Tstats temp rating stamped on them are not always correct. I would put in 180 and see what happens. I have had the same problem as you with the temp getting up to 220 are so before the 195 stat opens enough to start cooling down to operating temp. A 180 will give you enough heat in the cab if you live in cold country. Double check your radiator cap that it is the right pressure.

Read your last post and had to add, they sell a dye you can put in the radiaor to see if you getting exhaust gasses in the coolant. I don't remember if you said you had the heads rebuilt and magnafluxed? I never had one that bubbled as long as you say yours has?

 

I just reread your first post and I see you said a rebuilt engine. I assume it was a long block (heads on). If the overheating and bubbles continue I'd be calling the reman people. Sounds like a head gasket and/or cracked head. I've never got a reman motor that required a retorque of the heads, although I alway check them and the bottom end.

 

code 44 if you look on the driver side of the engine you will see a bracket 3 things on that bracket will through code 44 that code narrows it down to an up stream thermactor code they all are vaccume opperated there is a valve with 2 vaccume ports one will have vaccume check the lines the one with vaccume hook it back up the other should give a vaccume reading and check the 2 selinoids beside it.

 

Did the mechanic fix your broken head gasket?

 

Your problem is an infintesimally small crack in the coolant passages of the head itself. I know what You're probably thinking "wouldn't coolant come pouring out of the head?" or "wouldn't I smell burning coolant/coolant in the oil?"

No, not necessarily. It depends largely on exactly where this ridiculously small crack is, My guess is its right near the wall of the cylinder head and air is getting drawn into this inclusion by coolant suction. Which then heats up and vapor locks the cooling system. So you can burp it all you want, but it's just going to keep coming back.

The next logical question would be "wouldn't the NDI catch something like that?" Again no, not unless the tester was really on the ball and looking hard. I've seen this happen to aircraft twice, and any who know the industry's NDI standards know that something like that is much less likely to slip through the cracks (no pun intended) with aircraft, but they did. It was maddening for every guy in our hangar, until the cantankerous old ******* we call Bob told us to look in the walls of the head for a crack "about the size of a gnat's *** hair."

 

I realize that this post is over 4 years old, but I figured I would come back and give the update to help people having the same situation as I was. I have since sold the truck but I got it running beautifully before I sold it.

Problem 1 and 2 were linked and problem 3 and 4 were linked.

#1 and #2. It was the computer. The new computer (from a junkyard) solved the driveability problems, starting problems, code problems AND SMOG problems - That truck smogged and drove like a brand new truck - amazingly low numbers. I know many posts here say to get the one with the matching calibration code, but getting one from the same model of truck worked for me. I'm NOT saying that the calibration code matching computer doesn't make a difference, I'm just saying that it runs like a dream and smogs in strict CA. It might have been a matching calibration code (have no clue, came off a different year), but it just plain worked.

#3 and #4. It was the old AND NEW radiator. This problem haunted me for about a year or so. Don't know why the old original radiator had the same issue as the new one (never found out). But, I got a brand new Chinese radiator off Ebay and my problem still existed. I finally found that the filler neck wasn't completely flush where the seal of the cap was - thereby it wasn't pressurizing fully AND it lost vacuum when it was supposed to draw coolant back in. I actually bought a billet filler neck of high quality and had it welded on in its place. It did the trick until 2K miles later I sprang a leak in the radiator not related to the filler neck. Word to the wise - it matters where you get your radiator. DONT BUY CHINESE crap! I ended up spending a bit more and getting a lifetime unit from Autozone. Worked great.

Paul