Filling Rust Holes - crazy question
#1
Filling Rust Holes - crazy question
Hey guys, I just bought a 1995 F150 Ex. Cab 4X4 XLT. I paid $800 for it, mechanically it's in good shape but the body has seen better days for sure. I'm going to need to get this inspected as soon as I get it and I have no garage right now to do the body work (still winter here) SOOOOO here's what I was thinking, maybe I can use something to fill the holes for now and when it gets warm I can do the body work properly. For example, how do you think Gap filling spray foam would work? I've seen people duct tape over holes and some mechanics will pass it, but that's a bit too ghetto for me.
Let me know your ideas!!
Thanks,
~Jason
Let me know your ideas!!
Thanks,
~Jason
#2
A used car dealer around here was rumored to use spray foam to plug holes and mud over them. I wouldn't expect it to be a long term repair and it sure isn't the right way to do it.
I think spray foam would be a ghetto move as well, and I've never used the stuff for a shoddy repair, but do know that stuff supposedly expands alot. So you may have to be carefull spraying it in an enclosed area, or you could maybe end up buckling something.
Then there is the whole fact that its flammable so if you do later go the right route and replace metal, and you weld, you probably should dig all that stuff back out, so you don't risk starting your truck on fire.
I'd almost think more of the macco route, stuffing with newspaper, and duct tapeing and filling over would be better if just trying to pass inspection. Then you only have wasted the price of some plastic filler and spray bomb to cover, and be probably easier to remove when you get time to do it right. Heck, maybe a good pothole will do the job of removeing it for you.
Good thing they don't have inspections around here, being this is the rust belt and have a lot of rust lightened vehicles running around.
I think spray foam would be a ghetto move as well, and I've never used the stuff for a shoddy repair, but do know that stuff supposedly expands alot. So you may have to be carefull spraying it in an enclosed area, or you could maybe end up buckling something.
Then there is the whole fact that its flammable so if you do later go the right route and replace metal, and you weld, you probably should dig all that stuff back out, so you don't risk starting your truck on fire.
I'd almost think more of the macco route, stuffing with newspaper, and duct tapeing and filling over would be better if just trying to pass inspection. Then you only have wasted the price of some plastic filler and spray bomb to cover, and be probably easier to remove when you get time to do it right. Heck, maybe a good pothole will do the job of removeing it for you.
Good thing they don't have inspections around here, being this is the rust belt and have a lot of rust lightened vehicles running around.
#3
#4
I would say yes you can use the foam to fill it in. I got plenty of junkers that were fixed that way. My mom (then brother) had an 84 Cougar where the trunk rotted in the spare tire well. My guy that does my inspections told me to just bondo over it. Once I removed the carpet, the hole was worse than we though, so I used window screen and bondo to cover it (it was supposed to be temp, but never got around to fixing it) That lasted for a couple of years. The last year it was on the road I used a whole tube of caulk to repatch the trunk area. Here in PA, as long as the holes are covers, they dont care. My father in law uses that Alum duct tape and then sprays primer on it. He has a 80's Bronco that has the all to familiar rot in the quarters.
#5
Well normally you want to apply plastic filler over warm metal and temps, but seeing as this is only temp, and considering your stuffing a hole with the stuff anyways. Use a good amount of catalyst in the bondo, and you can help cure it with a heat gun, heat lamp, or even possibly a hair dryer. Also could use them to warm metal before applying it.
The actual air temp isn't as important as having metal warm and keeping the metal warm to help the filler kick.
The actual air temp isn't as important as having metal warm and keeping the metal warm to help the filler kick.
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