Rear Wheel Hub Nut Socket
#1
Rear Wheel Hub Nut Socket
Okay, I am getting ready to replace the rear bearings and seals in my truck. I need the “special” socket to remove the hub nut. I have searched and searched and all I can find is one for the Ford 10.25 or one for the Dana 80 rear. I assume one of these will work on the 10.5, but I do not know which one? Does anyone have any ideas, or a part number on their socket I can get? Thanks,
#2
#3
60-65 ft lb, then back off 5 clicks for new wheel bearings
60-80 ft lb for the axle shaft bolts (with thread lock)
150 ft lb for the lug nuts
If these numbers are wrong or if anyone has better info please let me know. Thanks,
#4
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
this is all i could find on it
-Ford Rear hub socket (available at parts houses. Autozone didn't have one)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ake-shoes.html
-Ford Rear hub socket (available at parts houses. Autozone didn't have one)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ake-shoes.html
#6
Yeah I saw the one Auto Zone had, but it only said 10.25, but if it will work on a 10.5 that is great. As far as torque goes I found:
60-65 ft lb, then back off 5 clicks for new wheel bearings
60-80 ft lb for the axle shaft bolts (with thread lock)
150 ft lb for the lug nuts
If these numbers are wrong or if anyone has better info please let me know. Thanks,
60-65 ft lb, then back off 5 clicks for new wheel bearings
60-80 ft lb for the axle shaft bolts (with thread lock)
150 ft lb for the lug nuts
If these numbers are wrong or if anyone has better info please let me know. Thanks,
Yeap, those are the numbers. I had a hell of a time finding them, and ended up finding them at the ford garage, after looking though one of their huge manuals. IIRC for used bearins, you only back them off 3 clicks. But its been a while since I had mine apart. (this would be assuming your reinstalling the old bearings.) As far as the spindle socket, there is basically two. One that does the front axles, and chevy axles, and the ford sterling socket. But I havent done anything to the D80s or larger yet, so in MY world, theres two.
#7
this is all i could find on it
-Ford Rear hub socket (available at parts houses. Autozone didn't have one)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ake-shoes.html
-Ford Rear hub socket (available at parts houses. Autozone didn't have one)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ake-shoes.html
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Yeap, those are the numbers. I had a hell of a time finding them, and ended up finding them at the ford garage, after looking though one of their huge manuals. IIRC for used bearins, you only back them off 3 clicks. But its been a while since I had mine apart. (this would be assuming your reinstalling the old bearings.) As far as the spindle socket, there is basically two. One that does the front axles, and chevy axles, and the ford sterling socket. But I havent done anything to the D80s or larger yet, so in MY world, theres two.
That is exactly what I have found running around today and searching the web. I guess I'll go with the 10.25 Sterling socket. The old links that used to take you to motorcraft repair manuals don't work for me , they ask for a log in now. But I was able to scrounge those numbers from this board and googling stuff. Thanks,
#10
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ardenvoir, Washington
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
I torqued my rear axle nut according to info here on the forum recently. copied from a post:
Remove the caliper and wire it up out of the way so the line doesn't get damaged. Then remove the caliper anchor plate. Now the 8 axle bolts on the hub then slide the axle shaft out. Now you'll need the 4 prong socket.....remove the hub nut. Remove the outer rear wheel bearing and the rear hub and brake disc assembly. Then remove the bolts that hold the two together. (for a dually).
When you re-install the hub nut, push in on the socket so the ratcheting parts of the hub nut don't engage and tighten to 70 lb/ft and then back it off 90ş. Now retorque it to 18 lb/ft to 20lb/ft max. ( quoted from AustinS)
Is this OK.. or should I redo the torque..?
Remove the caliper and wire it up out of the way so the line doesn't get damaged. Then remove the caliper anchor plate. Now the 8 axle bolts on the hub then slide the axle shaft out. Now you'll need the 4 prong socket.....remove the hub nut. Remove the outer rear wheel bearing and the rear hub and brake disc assembly. Then remove the bolts that hold the two together. (for a dually).
When you re-install the hub nut, push in on the socket so the ratcheting parts of the hub nut don't engage and tighten to 70 lb/ft and then back it off 90ş. Now retorque it to 18 lb/ft to 20lb/ft max. ( quoted from AustinS)
Is this OK.. or should I redo the torque..?
#11
I torqued my rear axle nut according to info here on the forum recently. copied from a post:
Remove the caliper and wire it up out of the way so the line doesn't get damaged. Then remove the caliper anchor plate. Now the 8 axle bolts on the hub then slide the axle shaft out. Now you'll need the 4 prong socket.....remove the hub nut. Remove the outer rear wheel bearing and the rear hub and brake disc assembly. Then remove the bolts that hold the two together. (for a dually).
When you re-install the hub nut, push in on the socket so the ratcheting parts of the hub nut don't engage and tighten to 70 lb/ft and then back it off 90ş. Now retorque it to 18 lb/ft to 20lb/ft max. ( quoted from AustinS)
Is this OK.. or should I redo the torque..?
Remove the caliper and wire it up out of the way so the line doesn't get damaged. Then remove the caliper anchor plate. Now the 8 axle bolts on the hub then slide the axle shaft out. Now you'll need the 4 prong socket.....remove the hub nut. Remove the outer rear wheel bearing and the rear hub and brake disc assembly. Then remove the bolts that hold the two together. (for a dually).
When you re-install the hub nut, push in on the socket so the ratcheting parts of the hub nut don't engage and tighten to 70 lb/ft and then back it off 90ş. Now retorque it to 18 lb/ft to 20lb/ft max. ( quoted from AustinS)
Is this OK.. or should I redo the torque..?
#12
I know this thread is a little old but it comes up when someone googles this topic so im adding this for information purposes. I bought a Performance Tools PN-W83008 for 85-99 10.25" axles and it will NOT work on my 06 10.5" axle because it will not slide into the spindle. It might could be machined down in a lathe to fit but doesn't work as is from the parts store. Your in luck apparently if you have an older 10.25" axle Oreilly has them part number listed above for $17. The only one I can find that specifically says fits the 10.5" axle is OTC PN-6601 so Im going to order it.
#13
Just an update for the socket part numbers. Mile Marker makes the socket, # 15009-01 and it is for all F250, F350 and Excursions with the 10.5 rearend.
I found it at AutoZone.com priced at $20.99 with $6 shipping. The OTC part number is much more expensive at the $40+ range
I hope this helps others.
I found it at AutoZone.com priced at $20.99 with $6 shipping. The OTC part number is much more expensive at the $40+ range
I hope this helps others.