Check Engine?
#1
Check Engine?
The truck is a 1988 F-350 with a 460 CI engine.
So I changed my engine a few months ago, and I removed the smog pump and EGR valve from the new engine.
Before the engine was pulled I had the check engine light on almost constantly. I pretty much just ignored it until I was forced to pull the engine. Most of the time it was an oil low thing because it had two dead cylinders and bad rings and burned quarts of oil in NO TIME. (It still ran when it was pulled.)
Anyways, with the new engine I still have a check engine light on. I assume it is something new, but it could be an old problem popping up again.
I ran a really confusing self-tester. Some "count-the-beeps" B.S.
I THINK my codes were;
I have absolutely no idea how a throttle position sensor could be out of range. Could it have been installed wrong? What could I do to remedy this?
I didn't know my power steering had a sensor. The power steering pump leaked really bad on the old engine. ( I believe it was a hose and I believe I fixed the leak. ) I have not noticed any LACK of power steering but I did notice it was making a whining sound as if it was low on fluid.
If anyone can make sense of all this junk I just typed out and has any helpful idea's let me know!
I'm going to take my truck to someone who knows what they're doing with a tester. But until then, let me know what you guys think.
Thanks
So I changed my engine a few months ago, and I removed the smog pump and EGR valve from the new engine.
Before the engine was pulled I had the check engine light on almost constantly. I pretty much just ignored it until I was forced to pull the engine. Most of the time it was an oil low thing because it had two dead cylinders and bad rings and burned quarts of oil in NO TIME. (It still ran when it was pulled.)
Anyways, with the new engine I still have a check engine light on. I assume it is something new, but it could be an old problem popping up again.
I ran a really confusing self-tester. Some "count-the-beeps" B.S.
I THINK my codes were;
- EGR VALVE CONTROL SENOR
- Throttle Position Sensor out of range
- Power steering pressure sensor switch
I have absolutely no idea how a throttle position sensor could be out of range. Could it have been installed wrong? What could I do to remedy this?
I didn't know my power steering had a sensor. The power steering pump leaked really bad on the old engine. ( I believe it was a hose and I believe I fixed the leak. ) I have not noticed any LACK of power steering but I did notice it was making a whining sound as if it was low on fluid.
If anyone can make sense of all this junk I just typed out and has any helpful idea's let me know!
I'm going to take my truck to someone who knows what they're doing with a tester. But until then, let me know what you guys think.
Thanks
#2
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 30,911
Likes: 0
Received 957 Likes
on
758 Posts
Yes if the EGR valve is missing you'll get a code, that one should be obvious. The EGR system actually improves milage and there's no way to eliminate it without getting a code so your options are limited if you want to fix this. The TPS sensor is the type that measure mechanical movement so these things don't last forever, it's very possible it is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced. Many of these trucks have a pressure sensor in the power steering line, It's not a big deal if you don't have one or have it hooked up but you'll never get rid of the check engine light if it's not connected.
#4
The only code here setting off the light is the EGR code. It's the only one that's emissions related. On the older (OBDI) computer it was set to only light the MIL on an emissions fault. Your engine is designed to run at optimum with the EGR installed, so reinstall it, and reset the codes. If the TPS code comes back replace the TPS.
#5
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 30,911
Likes: 0
Received 957 Likes
on
758 Posts
The computer commands movement of the EGR valve via the EVR(EGR vacuum regulator), and measures the actual valve movement with the EVP(EGR valve position sensor), disabling either or both sets a code. If the complete EGR system is installed and operating correctly, but the EGR valve is blocked at the intake manifold, you won't get a code but the motor will be detonation prone because the computer adds more timing when it commands the EGR to open. This is why it's beneficial to keep this system. The only way you won't get a code and not make the motor ping is by spending $500 on a tuner to shut off the whole EGR routine inside the computer, but that's not terribly cost effective.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jbblevin1
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
14
05-29-2002 11:55 PM