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2001 7.3L F350, Service Engine Soon, truck shakes

  #121  
Old 09-11-2010, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Butch07
Boy talk about being right on target.I followed your instructions. From checking for the right valve cover to look under to fixing the loose plug.And your advice was dead on. Now my truck a 2001 f-350 drw 4x4 runs great. You saved me $800 bucks Thanks You and this site are GREAT.
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  #122  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:34 PM
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Has anyone had the service engine light come back on after this fix ??? my truck ran great for about 2 weeks then one morning it would not start. when it finally did start the service engine soon light was back on. It ideled badly then the light went out and it smoothed out then came back on then went out and did not come back on. could it have a shorted under cover harness ??? And if so how do you replace it. Help anyone know???
 
  #123  
Old 10-09-2010, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Butch07
Has anyone had the service engine light come back on after this fix ??? my truck ran great for about 2 weeks then one morning it would not start. when it finally did start the service engine soon light was back on. It ideled badly then the light went out and it smoothed out then came back on then went out and did not come back on. could it have a shorted under cover harness ??? And if so how do you replace it. Help anyone know???
You really need to hook it up to a scanner that will pull Ford enhanced codes to know what the problem is.
 
  #124  
Old 10-09-2010, 07:22 PM
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Well I could not locate a scanner excypt at Ford and thay want 100.00 to scan it. to bad i was not born rich LOL SOOO i took the tester and checked both sides again. And i found that the right side had no readings for the Injectors yet the Glo-plugs read fine. To make a long story short, i took that side apart again. Everything looked good the coin had not moved at all. But the plugs litle locking tabs were not hooked all the way. so the coin just moved with the plug. I wounder why ford did not put retainer clips on the inside of the valve cover,yet thay put them on the outside plug. Anyway this time i made sure the little locking tabs were up on the little cross piece and not still under it. Hope this works. Also iam getting very good at this.LOL P.S. The little plastic clip on the outside valve cover plug does not fit the inside plug its slighty to short. Hope this helps some one.Thanks for a great site. Will subscribe when i can. Butch Rankin
 
  #125  
Old 10-24-2010, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Sounds like you're on the right track Darren. Remember the other possibility for some of your readings may be you have some bad glow plugs. This won't affect how the truck is running, but as long as your pulling valve covers, might as well replace any bad ones. Have you had any trouble or excessive smoking starting in cold weather?

To address the issue of the loose plugs, there is a retainer clip you can purchase from Ford or International to prevent this from happening again. The other option would be to make yourself a shim to prevent the plug from coming loose. A quarter just happens to be the right width and thickness if you grind one edge down. That's what I used on my truck.






The other thing I would suggest you do while you have the valve covers off is to re-torque the rocker arm pedestal bolts (circled in Red) to 20 ft-lbs, and the lower injector hold down bolts (circled in Blue) to 120 in-lbs. They've been known to work their way a little loose, and tightening 1/4 to 1/2 turn on any loose injectors really makes your engine sound better.



If you have any questions, don't be shy about asking.
The Retainer clips cost $5.00 Each, from Ford. 3 Clips to a package,one is a spare.
 
  #126  
Old 12-21-2010, 08:39 PM
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thanks for the info. My truck is running fine at this time. It all started a couple of weeks ago on a pretty cold morning when i switched it on for the glow plugs to activate .... while waiting I could hear a humming/electrical noise coming from under the hood. I never had heard this before, so I saaid "oh well" and started her up.

She started up fine and purred like a kitten for about 10 secounds, and then it goes into this horrible radical miss like its starving for fuel ... this lasted a long 5 seconds with the service engine soon light on. After this horrible 5 seconds, the engine smooths back to a normal idle with no service engine light. Its done this radical shake/miss twice since then without the humming/electrical noise coming from under the hood.
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  #127  
Old 12-21-2010, 08:40 PM
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..... my problem was the driver side
harness (partially separated & burned)
Due to a RV trip I had planned this week ... i had a reputable
diesel shop do the work. After reading some of the post, I told
them to do a lil extra work like replacing the harness on the other side also.
Also glow plugs. They told me it really wasn’t necessary but ?? (see below)

Two - Seal Ring PVC ----???-------------- 5.60
Two - Valve Cover Gasket ---------------- 172.90
Two - Wire Assembly ---------------------- 188.60
Eight -- Motorcraft Glow Plugs --------- 0.00 ( mine )

Six - Hours Labor @ $70 per hour = 420.00

TOTAL $787

Im broke but it seem to crank better.
 
  #128  
Old 12-21-2010, 08:46 PM
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$800 is worth it after you've pushed these trucks to the side of the road.
 
  #129  
Old 12-22-2010, 10:39 AM
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I seem to be having the same issues with my 02 F350 7.3 PSD. Engine light comes on intermittently; when the light is on the truck runs rough, as an earlier post stated "like driving on a (bad) road"; lack of power as well.

This all seemed to start after the recall replacement of the CPS. Any coincidence? This has been an ongoing problem. We first discovered I needed new batteries. Shortly after that the alternator went out, then the idler/tensioner needed replacing. All of which when completed I had no light for awhile. Had a test done at the dealership (only because I was passing by when the light came on) and they didn't tell me the code, but said one of my injectors was bad. Following this thread, this seems to be a common response by dealerships.

Was the UVCH clip issue ever a recall? Seems as though Ford should do something if this is happening quite often. I don't have a reader and am a novice mechanic at best. Is this something I should attempt to tackle or should I try my mechanic? If both sides need repair, how many hours should it take a mechanic? How many hours (days) should it take me? I live in the Rocky Mountains and winter is in full force now, we've had over 160" of snow already. My full size truck won't fit in my garage, so I would be attempting this outdoors. Any help/advice would be
 
  #130  
Old 12-22-2010, 02:33 PM
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Idk if it was recalled but they made a part for the repair. ETSM was quoted 6 hrs on the repair. It doesn't seem that hard though.
 
  #131  
Old 12-23-2010, 01:42 PM
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Hi Seitz / Orng
Im sure some of that 6 hours was diagnostic which i think was unesessary because of this great forum. I think you could take it to any good "gasser" mechanic and tell them exactly what to do, you would save some bucks. You dont need a diesel tech to do this simple task. I dont think franchises like pep boys would touch a diesel but your mom & pop places probably would (i.e. removing 2 valve covers)

I know ... i could have done this myself. I'll tell ya, $787 would have almost made 2 truck payments back in 1999 :-) I just appreciate you guys for helping me diagnose the problem. The diesel shop was impressed with my knowledge of the situation.

The new glow plugs makes a "big" difference at start-up! My only concern is, he didn't change the glow plug relay .... Shouldn't I have a new glow plug relay with the new plugs?

thanks again
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  #132  
Old 12-24-2010, 04:19 PM
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Unbelievable!!! Just picked my F350 up after having my mechanic do the UVCH retainer clip repair and re-torquing everything as noted in this thread. OMG!!! I don't remember my truck running this well!

My mechanic said the "quarter" retainer Chris noted would've been much easier than the Ford clips. He charged me 4 hours total labor to do both sides, of which he said at least a half hour or more of that was spent trying to get those Ford clips in place.

Anyway, after the repair he cleared the codes, test drove the truck and retested. Nothing! Na da! Everything looks and runs great!

A million props to everyone, especially Chris, for providing this information. Thanks again!
 
  #133  
Old 12-25-2010, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by seitzsteamboat
Unbelievable!!! Just picked my F350 up after having my mechanic do the UVCH retainer clip repair and re-torquing everything as noted in this thread. OMG!!! I don't remember my truck running this well!

My mechanic said the "quarter" retainer Chris noted would've been much easier than the Ford clips. He charged me 4 hours total labor to do both sides, of which he said at least a half hour or more of that was spent trying to get those Ford clips in place.

Anyway, after the repair he cleared the codes, test drove the truck and retested. Nothing! Na da! Everything looks and runs great!

A million props to everyone, especially Chris, for providing this information. Thanks again!
Hey, welcome to FTE and thanks for letting us know.
 
  #134  
Old 12-25-2010, 10:35 AM
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Cool, good to hear it went well. I'm about to do this to mine. If I can convince the sun to come out. It's cold outside for me. Probably in the 50s, I can imagine a lot of you guys would be outside in shorts and sandles.
 
  #135  
Old 12-25-2010, 10:56 AM
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Well worth either doing it yourself or having it done! Runs amazingly.

Orng1- 50 degrees? That's pool weather here in Steamboat this time of the year. It was below zero this morning. Up to a balmy 8 right now.
 

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