Thanks for the info and thanks for the invitation, but although my truck has over 200k on it, in my 3 years of ownership I drove it for about 6000 miles.
Drive Mercedes most of the time and even the Mercedes is older than the Ford, it not only gives you lot of info via the scanner, but also using clima display I can access all the sensors readouts while driving. Priceless for troubleshooting sophisticated AC system or other stuff.
Ford on other hand was catching the fire while parked for weeks.
The dump bed, 1200lb lift gate and 8000 top mounted winch are priceless for occasional HD jobs, but hardly pleasure to drive.

 

One thing many people do not realize is that there is a difference between OBD-II compliance, and the electrical interface that most people call "OBD-II".

One does not necessarily mean the other

 

I am back.
Drove the truck today again (you can tell I don't do it very often) and I still have slight problem.
The truck performs on freeway, but few times on acceleration from the stop the engine would stop responding to the throttle and one time I had the famous light coming up.
For some reason it usually happens when I engage 4-th gear.
It is not a big deal. I just let it idle for 2-3 seconds and than it will continue, but it gets really annoying not being able to troubleshoot the fault.
There is still possibility that I have bad harness under valve cover, but I strongly believe that at 200k PO took care about it and than the problem is very intermediate on last 1500 miles driven. Any idea how can I get a code that appears only for 1 second?

 

Go pay a dealer or independent diesel mechanic to pull the codes for you. Even if the light just comes on for a couple of seconds, there will be a code stored in the PCM. The light does not need to be on for them to see the code.

 

Dealer wants $300 for reading the codes. I used AAAmco and few minutes after the light went off there was no code stored.

 

There's a good chance AAmco's scanner won't see the diesel engine codes. They've probably got a generic type scanner geared for standard OBDII & tranny codes. If the light came on, there will be some code stored there, even if it's just a P0603.

 

Got thesse codes last week about had a heart atack when i found out what they were had just take the ex to the dealer for the cps recall on friday and on monday it kicked out p0677 bad glow plug first thought was they f*&^*d up something at the dealer was runnnig great before the trip there cleared the code wife drove 1day and bam p0677,p1316 found this great web site and ordered the updated clips bam no more problems for know all i can say is you guys great keep up the good work will be a supporter soon as i go back to work thanks again:-x25

 

Welcome! This is the best site for sure, hang around and you'll see what I mean! I'm glad you got her fixxed by the way.

 

wow this is a real cool site.. I have a 02 7.3 and it was running fine and then started to run rough at times just out of no where. Then was getting worse over a few weeks and the light is on
I had it checked at auto zone and thier reader says p1670 po672 and p0198 and i think it said 1316 also.
SO i replaced the camshaft sensor there in the parking lot.That sucked have to hold your mouth just right and no room under truck its a 2 wheel drive.Took 2 hourse.lol hard to pull it out. Well that didnt fix anything. So I stopped by a repair place and they out it on a snap on tools tester and it said left bank sometihng. So we looked and saw that the wires that go into the eot sensor were melted and touching the engine. So he taped them up and plugged it back in and then the truck ran normal sort of. Then retested and said everything was fine and also tested the injectors and they were fin as well.
But then the next day the truck would start real rough and felt like running on 5 cyclinders or something. Would run run real rough like timing was way off... So i bought new eot sensor and put it in and didnt fix any thing. still rough. Then the next day it wouldnt start at all. tried till the batteries went dead. So i replace the batteries plugged my engine into the house and waited a few hours and it started. But still is running rough. All fuses are ok. The connection is ok that we taped up. Would like to replace that connector with a new one but cant find one anywhere. I checked the wiring harness outside the valve covers but have not checked the under valve cover conn yet.
And went back to autozone for the free rip off buy all our parts tester nad still got those same test results even the eot sensor p0198.

 

FTE to the rescue AGAIN! This forum is with out doubt, the best resource a PSD owner could have in his/her arsenal. Back in November '08 I had this problem but didn't know how or where to look for the problem. Threw my baby on a roll-back and to the dealership we went. $2000+ later, she was back on the road... Fast forward to Wednesday afternoon.... As I'm approaching the driveway after work, she's starts acting up again. This, time, I'm a lot smarter (thanks to this forum)! Since the problem was on the passenger side last time, I pulled the drivers side valve cover and BAM! There it was! I grabbed a quarter, ground it down and presto! This time, it only cost about 90 minutes of my time and $0.25! Thanks a bunch Fellas!

 

Glad you were able to fix it yourself this time. You saved $1,999.75 doing it yourself. Now might be a good time to become a SUPPORTER.

 

hey guys im having the same problem with the truck shaking and running on which sounds like only half the motor. i ohmed the drivers side and pulled the cover just to be safe and everything was still connected and tight. i ohmed the passenger side and got 0.5 on all the glow plugs except for the last pin closest to the front of the motor which read nothing. i would just like some of your guys advice cause this site has helped me more than enough times. thanks katie

 

I think I may be having this same problem. I left my house this morning for a 70+- mile trip to Baton Rouge. I made it about 3 miles and my truck started running really rough and sort of bucking as I was going through a stop sign. No SES light (or any other idicator) I immediately headed back home with no problems at 35-45 mph. but when I slow down for turns or in my neighborhood it runs really rough again.

First I changed the fuel filter (had about 15000 miles on the old one) it looked fine. Then I headed to the local dealership to get the CPS they've been hounding me to get. The truck actually died when I pulled into the service line but started right back up. Two hours later the head of the service department tells me my truck's ready so I get excited and start walking toward the cashier to get my keys. As I'm walking out the manager matter-of-factly says, "oh yeah, that didn't fix your problem." (thanks for nothing).

I let the truck run in the driveway for about 10 minutes and listened to it. It sounds like its loping really bad and at some points like its only hitting on half the cylinders. Like a cha cha cha cha sound instead of the constant pur (more of a growl with the diesel).

I just wanted to know if this sounded like the same problem before I grind down two quarters and buy a multimeter.

2003 2WD 87,000 miles only mod so far is the 6637 filter

 

What were the readings on your passenger side injector wires Katie? If you leave the connector on the passenger side unplugged and start the truck, does it change anything or does it run the same? If it runs the same with the plug disconnected, you need to pull the passenger valve cover.

You can get a multi-meter pretty cheap. I'd buy one and ohm the wires. Maybe check with a neighbor and see if you can borrow one.

 

Thanks F-350-6. I'm gonna get a multimeter tomorrow and check it out. If this is my problem I'll probably tackle the fix on Sunday. Is there a step-by-step guide for this fix? Not necessarily this task specifically but just one on removing the valve covers.

Also, I've seen a few ppl mention re-tightening everything while they're in there. I don't have/ have access to a torque wrench can I just snug them up with a regular socket driver? Thanks in advance.