I went ahead and replaced the uvc wiring harness, but it didn't fix the problem. I'm pretty sure that the issue is on the passenger side because as it was running rough I unplugged the connector to each side, and when I unplugged the passenger side it didn't change. When I unplugged the drivers side the engine died. I take this to mean that the issue is on the passenger side. But I'm not sure what else to look for at this point, so any suggestions would be great. I checked resistance on all the pins again and they all had good readings. How do I tell if the problem is with one (or more) of the injectors? Or maybe the IDM?

Okay, in looking around on youtube I found a video of what a good and bad injector looks like when running, I looked at mine and only the #3 is spitting oil like it should. #1, 5, and 7 there is no oil coming out at all. Is it possible that all three are bad or is there another likely problem?

 

What were the ohm readings you got? Yes it is possible a bad injector causes the IDM to shut down the entire bank. If one injector reading was out of spec, try unplugging both batteries for a while to clear the codes. Unplug the one suspect injector and then start the truck. You'll still get a CEL, but if the truck starts running on 7 cylinders instead of only 4, you've found the problem. Running on 7 cylinders will seem like a very slight miss compared to what you're experiencing with half the engine not running.

 

I really hate to ask this question.but what is ''IDM"
sorry but I think I need to know and I don't;(

 

Injector Drive Module it's what "drives" the injectors, electrically.

 

Thanks, I needed that, and again
I hope you don't mind dumb questions....

 

When I initially did the ohm check, the rearmost injector read about 6 ohms, the other 3 read in the 3.2 to 3.4 range. After replacing the uvc harness, all four read in the good 3.2 to 3.4 range, but it is still running just as rough. I ran it for a minute with the valve cover off so I could see the injectors, and like I said in my second post, only the #3 injector is spitting oil like it should. The other three have nothing coming out, so really it looks like it's only running on 5 cylinders right now. I will try unplugging both batteries when I get home tonight, but should I be looking at the IDM or at the injectors themselves? Thanks for the help.

 

I know it's been a couple days, but I got busy with other stuff and haven't had much time to work on the truck. I left the batteries disconnected for a couple hours last night, and when I reconnected everything and went to try and start it up, **** just went haywire. All of the lights and bells were flashing and buzzing and cutting on and off rapidly. When I turn the key to on to warm up the glow plugs this goes on for about 20 seconds, then settles down and things seems to work normally. But when I go to start, as the engine is turning over I hear the electrical system clicking rapidly and see every light on the dash blinking on and off. And of course it won't actually start. So now I'm thinking I have a short somewhere in the electrical system, but I don't even know where to start looking.

If I need to move this to a different thread now just say the word, but the original problem still remains.

 

Double check your battery connections. Sounds like something is loose or too corroded.

 

Let me jump in here(if you don't mind) there has been 2 of you that sez not to use auto-lite gp's, what would you reccomend?
I have seen an add for the "ACCURATE DIESEL" brand, would any of you know if they are the best or what. If not what brand would you reccomend?
tnx

 

Motorcraft ZD-11 which i believe are BERU

Riffraff Diesel: Motorcraft Glowplugs

The reason for not using the autolites is there are reports of the tips swelling and breaking off falling into the cylinder.

 

Thank you very much

 

I didn't have any issues with a miss, but....
I was installing HPX, FRx, fuel pressure relief rebuild, plenum inserts, CCV Mod, "Hutch" & "Harpoon" mods, pre-pump filter, Oil cooler rebuild, new water pump.
So I had everything torn down to the point that it was easy enough to pull the valve covers.
Drivers side Ohm ed out the injectors & glow plugs and they were within specs.

Torqued down the rocker arms they were tight already. The injectors, all I can say is WOW I got about a one and a half turns on each.
Added the snipped off quarter to the connector before I buttoned it up.

I'll do the passenger side tomorrow. Looks as if it may be easy enough to unbolt the entire AC mount to gain the additional room to work on the valve cover.

Thanks F-350-6 I never would have thought that the injectors would be so loose.

 

I was able to get my passenger side valve cover off without removing the AC pump or bracket. It really came right out in about 15 seconds. Try it first before you remove the AC you may save yourself some time.

 

Thanks for the feed back.
Most everything is off the front of the motor already, fan, water pump, radiator, intercooler. I'm going to be installing the Fuel Rail Crossover at the same time and removing the AC and bracket will make that chore so much easier.

 

Okay, I had to go away for a while but now I'm back and back to trying to diagnose my problem. I think you were right about the connections, I cleaned them all and it's cranking normally. The problem is that's all it's doing, it will turn over but won't start. I'm not sure what to do about this, at least before I could get it to start and run rough, now it won't even do that.

I did the ohm test from the wiring harness at the IDM and everything checked out as it should, I followed the procedures here:
http://www.gbreman.com/docs/techbull...eplacement.pdf
On test 1, everything read 3.1-3.2 ohms. On tests 2 and 3 everything was open. If I'm reading the tech bulletin correctly, that tells me that all my wiring and the injector solenoids are all good. But is it still possible that one or more injectors are bad? Or is the IDM more likely at this point?

Thanks in advance...