2001 7.3L F350, Service Engine Soon, truck shakes
#136
#138
Quarter trick! (kind of)
I love this site but am mostly a lurker. I bought a 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4, 150k a few years ago and love it. Put a 1.5" leveling kit on the front, 38" military tires and Bushwacker cutouts all around. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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This is the first year I had to smog it due to CA being over regulated on everything. Surprised when it didn't pass. Tech said it failed for not having a check engine light, codes P0677, P0675 and P1690. <o></o>
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So I drove home and immediately got on FTE. Found the P0677/P0675 were related to the glow plug and most likely the wire harness. Hooked up the ohm meter and found they were open. I pulled the passenger side valve cover (very easily by the way. expecting the driver's side to be cake.) and found the back half of the plug hanging out. Ohm'd the pins and found the glow plugs were fine. I'm too cheap for a quarter so I ground a washer and it holds beautifully. <o></o>
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So what do I look for on the waste gate control valve solenoid error code P1690? Check engine light is still on. Oh, and as far as the check engine light not working, the previous owner pulled the light socket out of it and the brake warning holes! Replaced it and now working fine, as in check engine light is still on. <o></o>
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This is the first year I had to smog it due to CA being over regulated on everything. Surprised when it didn't pass. Tech said it failed for not having a check engine light, codes P0677, P0675 and P1690. <o></o>
<o></o>
So I drove home and immediately got on FTE. Found the P0677/P0675 were related to the glow plug and most likely the wire harness. Hooked up the ohm meter and found they were open. I pulled the passenger side valve cover (very easily by the way. expecting the driver's side to be cake.) and found the back half of the plug hanging out. Ohm'd the pins and found the glow plugs were fine. I'm too cheap for a quarter so I ground a washer and it holds beautifully. <o></o>
<o></o>
So what do I look for on the waste gate control valve solenoid error code P1690? Check engine light is still on. Oh, and as far as the check engine light not working, the previous owner pulled the light socket out of it and the brake warning holes! Replaced it and now working fine, as in check engine light is still on. <o></o>
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#139
So what do I look for on the waste gate control valve solenoid error code P1690? Check engine light is still on. Oh, and as far as the check engine light not working, the previous owner pulled the light socket out of it and the brake warning holes! Replaced it and now working fine, as in check engine light is still on. <O></O>
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#140
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It is/was plugged in. I also had checked voltage to the harness key on/off and I have 11- on and 0 off. Any other tests for it? Can I put voltage to it and with a vacuum gauge test the ports or would it ruin it?<o></o>
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I did two fuses blown find after the smog test. One in cab for #3-cigar lighter/data link connector, and under hood #5-instrument panel aux. power point.<o></o>
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<o>Also, how long does it take for the Check engine light to go out or does it need to be cleared (battery disconnect)?</o>
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It is/was plugged in. I also had checked voltage to the harness key on/off and I have 11- on and 0 off. Any other tests for it? Can I put voltage to it and with a vacuum gauge test the ports or would it ruin it?<o></o>
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I did two fuses blown find after the smog test. One in cab for #3-cigar lighter/data link connector, and under hood #5-instrument panel aux. power point.<o></o>
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<o>Also, how long does it take for the Check engine light to go out or does it need to be cleared (battery disconnect)?</o>
#141
I don't want to highjack so if this needs a new thread let me know. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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I checked the solenoid with vac. Since normally closed without key I can hold vacuum on the inlet side, green tube. Open on the pressure side, red tube. Key on, powered 12v, open on inlet. Cap pressure side and can hold vac. Indicates solenoid is good. Any other things to check for the error code P1690?
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I checked the solenoid with vac. Since normally closed without key I can hold vacuum on the inlet side, green tube. Open on the pressure side, red tube. Key on, powered 12v, open on inlet. Cap pressure side and can hold vac. Indicates solenoid is good. Any other things to check for the error code P1690?
#142
I don't want to highjack so if this needs a new thread let me know. fficeffice" /><O></O>
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I checked the solenoid with vac. Since normally closed without key I can hold vacuum on the inlet side, green tube. Open on the pressure side, red tube. Key on, powered 12v, open on inlet. Cap pressure side and can hold vac. Indicates solenoid is good. Any other things to check for the error code P1690?
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I checked the solenoid with vac. Since normally closed without key I can hold vacuum on the inlet side, green tube. Open on the pressure side, red tube. Key on, powered 12v, open on inlet. Cap pressure side and can hold vac. Indicates solenoid is good. Any other things to check for the error code P1690?
Edit: With KOEO after about 30 seconds my WG solenoid starts rapidly operating and releasing, and I have never gotten a WG solenoid code.
#143
[quote=PaysonPSD;9881442]I don't know how the valve in the solenoid is designed but it controls pressure, not vacuum, so using vacuum to test it might not be valid.[quote]
The solenoid is just an electromagnet that opens or closes what ever it is connected to. Yes, the WGS runs on pressure. But using vacume I was able to confirm the electrical part of it is working and controlling the valve to open and close the pressure. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
The solenoid is just an electromagnet that opens or closes what ever it is connected to. Yes, the WGS runs on pressure. But using vacume I was able to confirm the electrical part of it is working and controlling the valve to open and close the pressure. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
#144
I wasn't talking about how the solenoid operates but how the valve is designed. A valve that allows pressure to pass may close with a vacuum applied and vice versa.
Did you see my edit about the solenoid rapidly operating and releasing?
PCM pin #47 is for WG solenoid control. It is tied to pin #28 on the 42 way connector.
Did you see my edit about the solenoid rapidly operating and releasing?
PCM pin #47 is for WG solenoid control. It is tied to pin #28 on the 42 way connector.
#145
I see what you're saying now. And for the edit, I did see it but have to admit I don't know what "KOEO" is. So your solenoid is Obviously working.
So even though I have voltage with key on, I need to diagnose when it is getting the signal, or not? So the plug on the solenoid has a key on power. Is the other lead switched by the controller? And if it's not ever switching there may be my problem?
So even though I have voltage with key on, I need to diagnose when it is getting the signal, or not? So the plug on the solenoid has a key on power. Is the other lead switched by the controller? And if it's not ever switching there may be my problem?
#146
Sorry, KOEO means Key On Engine Off, which is simply key in run position.
With key in run position you have pwr on solenoid connector pin 1, so check for control ground on 2. I'm not fast enough to know if the solenoid operates as soon as the key is turned on but like I said, after about 30 seconds with KOEO the solenoid stars rapidly operating and releasing.
One thing that seems to happen often is the 42 way connector harness will chafe on the VC. Check the bottom of that harnes where it passes over the VC. If the solenoid control wire gets grounded the PCM will see it as a fault. I also once read where that harness rubbed through on the inboard side of the bracket.
With key in run position you have pwr on solenoid connector pin 1, so check for control ground on 2. I'm not fast enough to know if the solenoid operates as soon as the key is turned on but like I said, after about 30 seconds with KOEO the solenoid stars rapidly operating and releasing.
One thing that seems to happen often is the 42 way connector harness will chafe on the VC. Check the bottom of that harnes where it passes over the VC. If the solenoid control wire gets grounded the PCM will see it as a fault. I also once read where that harness rubbed through on the inboard side of the bracket.
#148
I have been having a similar issue. It has happened a couple times now.
Both instances have been when the truck is at or just below 1/4 tank. I did not get any lights on, not even the low fuel light. The truck feels like it it is starving for fuel and after filling the tank (21 gallons today in a short bed truck so I know its not out of fuel) it runs rough for a bit longer, then smoothes out.
Does this sound like the same issue? I am more than willing to do this mod, but it seems to me like it is acting like it is somehow getting air in the fuel lines.
Thanks,
Kevin
Both instances have been when the truck is at or just below 1/4 tank. I did not get any lights on, not even the low fuel light. The truck feels like it it is starving for fuel and after filling the tank (21 gallons today in a short bed truck so I know its not out of fuel) it runs rough for a bit longer, then smoothes out.
Does this sound like the same issue? I am more than willing to do this mod, but it seems to me like it is acting like it is somehow getting air in the fuel lines.
Thanks,
Kevin
#149
I have been having a similar issue. It has happened a couple times now.
Both instances have been when the truck is at or just below 1/4 tank. I did not get any lights on, not even the low fuel light. The truck feels like it it is starving for fuel and after filling the tank (21 gallons today in a short bed truck so I know its not out of fuel) it runs rough for a bit longer, then smoothes out.
Does this sound like the same issue? I am more than willing to do this mod, but it seems to me like it is acting like it is somehow getting air in the fuel lines.
Thanks,
Kevin
Both instances have been when the truck is at or just below 1/4 tank. I did not get any lights on, not even the low fuel light. The truck feels like it it is starving for fuel and after filling the tank (21 gallons today in a short bed truck so I know its not out of fuel) it runs rough for a bit longer, then smoothes out.
Does this sound like the same issue? I am more than willing to do this mod, but it seems to me like it is acting like it is somehow getting air in the fuel lines.
Thanks,
Kevin
#150
Now that I have pulled the tank and installed an external fuel filter this whole UVCH thing sounds like my problem: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-warm-too.html So I am going to ohm it out and maybe get to pulling a valve cover today.