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2001 7.3L F350, Service Engine Soon, truck shakes

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  #136  
Old 12-25-2010, 12:20 PM
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LOL I live in Long Beach, it's usually in the upper 60s or 70s around this time. It's been raining, you guys probably don't remember what rain is, it's snow when it's water.
 
  #137  
Old 01-13-2011, 02:41 PM
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with 2 psd's both 240k + I am definately going to have to do this soon.
 
  #138  
Old 01-26-2011, 12:47 PM
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Quarter trick! (kind of)

I love this site but am mostly a lurker. I bought a 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4, 150k a few years ago and love it. Put a 1.5" leveling kit on the front, 38" military tires and Bushwacker cutouts all around. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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This is the first year I had to smog it due to CA being over regulated on everything. Surprised when it didn't pass. Tech said it failed for not having a check engine light, codes P0677, P0675 and P1690. <o></o>
<o></o>
So I drove home and immediately got on FTE. Found the P0677/P0675 were related to the glow plug and most likely the wire harness. Hooked up the ohm meter and found they were open. I pulled the passenger side valve cover (very easily by the way. expecting the driver's side to be cake.) and found the back half of the plug hanging out. Ohm'd the pins and found the glow plugs were fine. I'm too cheap for a quarter so I ground a washer and it holds beautifully. <o></o>
<o></o>
So what do I look for on the waste gate control valve solenoid error code P1690? Check engine light is still on. Oh, and as far as the check engine light not working, the previous owner pulled the light socket out of it and the brake warning holes! Replaced it and now working fine, as in check engine light is still on. <o></o>
<o></o>
 
  #139  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by herojeep
So what do I look for on the waste gate control valve solenoid error code P1690? Check engine light is still on. Oh, and as far as the check engine light not working, the previous owner pulled the light socket out of it and the brake warning holes! Replaced it and now working fine, as in check engine light is still on. <O></O>
<O></O>
Make sure the connector for the WG solenoid is plugged in. The solenoid is mounted to the front of spider and has a green connector.
 
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  #140  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Make sure the connector for the WG solenoid is plugged in. The solenoid is mounted to the front of spider and has a green connector.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

<o></o>
It is/was plugged in. I also had checked voltage to the harness key on/off and I have 11- on and 0 off. Any other tests for it? Can I put voltage to it and with a vacuum gauge test the ports or would it ruin it?<o></o>
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I did two fuses blown find after the smog test. One in cab for #3-cigar lighter/data link connector, and under hood #5-instrument panel aux. power point.<o></o>
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<o>Also, how long does it take for the Check engine light to go out or does it need to be cleared (battery disconnect)?</o>
 
  #141  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:49 PM
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I don't want to highjack so if this needs a new thread let me know. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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I checked the solenoid with vac. Since normally closed without key I can hold vacuum on the inlet side, green tube. Open on the pressure side, red tube. Key on, powered 12v, open on inlet. Cap pressure side and can hold vac. Indicates solenoid is good. Any other things to check for the error code P1690?
 
  #142  
Old 01-26-2011, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by herojeep
I don't want to highjack so if this needs a new thread let me know. fficeffice" /><O></O>
<O></O>
I checked the solenoid with vac. Since normally closed without key I can hold vacuum on the inlet side, green tube. Open on the pressure side, red tube. Key on, powered 12v, open on inlet. Cap pressure side and can hold vac. Indicates solenoid is good. Any other things to check for the error code P1690?
I don't know how the valve in the solenoid is designed but it controls pressure, not vacuum, so using vacuum to test it might not be valid.

Edit: With KOEO after about 30 seconds my WG solenoid starts rapidly operating and releasing, and I have never gotten a WG solenoid code.
 
  #143  
Old 01-26-2011, 03:01 PM
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[quote=PaysonPSD;9881442]I don't know how the valve in the solenoid is designed but it controls pressure, not vacuum, so using vacuum to test it might not be valid.[quote]

The solenoid is just an electromagnet that opens or closes what ever it is connected to. Yes, the WGS runs on pressure. But using vacume I was able to confirm the electrical part of it is working and controlling the valve to open and close the pressure. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
 
  #144  
Old 01-26-2011, 03:38 PM
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I wasn't talking about how the solenoid operates but how the valve is designed. A valve that allows pressure to pass may close with a vacuum applied and vice versa.

Did you see my edit about the solenoid rapidly operating and releasing?

PCM pin #47 is for WG solenoid control. It is tied to pin #28 on the 42 way connector.
 
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  #145  
Old 01-26-2011, 07:50 PM
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I see what you're saying now. And for the edit, I did see it but have to admit I don't know what "KOEO" is. So your solenoid is Obviously working.

So even though I have voltage with key on, I need to diagnose when it is getting the signal, or not? So the plug on the solenoid has a key on power. Is the other lead switched by the controller? And if it's not ever switching there may be my problem?
 
  #146  
Old 01-26-2011, 09:32 PM
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Sorry, KOEO means Key On Engine Off, which is simply key in run position.

With key in run position you have pwr on solenoid connector pin 1, so check for control ground on 2. I'm not fast enough to know if the solenoid operates as soon as the key is turned on but like I said, after about 30 seconds with KOEO the solenoid stars rapidly operating and releasing.

One thing that seems to happen often is the 42 way connector harness will chafe on the VC. Check the bottom of that harnes where it passes over the VC. If the solenoid control wire gets grounded the PCM will see it as a fault. I also once read where that harness rubbed through on the inboard side of the bracket.
 
  #147  
Old 01-26-2011, 10:42 PM
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Thanks, I'll have to wait until my next days off to take a look at the harness.
 
  #148  
Old 02-14-2011, 04:48 PM
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I have been having a similar issue. It has happened a couple times now.

Both instances have been when the truck is at or just below 1/4 tank. I did not get any lights on, not even the low fuel light. The truck feels like it it is starving for fuel and after filling the tank (21 gallons today in a short bed truck so I know its not out of fuel) it runs rough for a bit longer, then smoothes out.

Does this sound like the same issue? I am more than willing to do this mod, but it seems to me like it is acting like it is somehow getting air in the fuel lines.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
  #149  
Old 02-14-2011, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by NE-rokrash
I have been having a similar issue. It has happened a couple times now.

Both instances have been when the truck is at or just below 1/4 tank. I did not get any lights on, not even the low fuel light. The truck feels like it it is starving for fuel and after filling the tank (21 gallons today in a short bed truck so I know its not out of fuel) it runs rough for a bit longer, then smoothes out.

Does this sound like the same issue? I am more than willing to do this mod, but it seems to me like it is acting like it is somehow getting air in the fuel lines.

Thanks,
Kevin
Sounds more like you have a cracked pick up tube inside the fuel tank. If it always happens when you get below 1/4 tank and never happens when above that level, keep the tank topped off until you have time to do the in tank mods.
 
  #150  
Old 04-02-2011, 11:02 AM
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Now that I have pulled the tank and installed an external fuel filter this whole UVCH thing sounds like my problem: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-warm-too.html So I am going to ohm it out and maybe get to pulling a valve cover today.
 


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