I had bought this truck from my neighbor a few months ago.

When i got it, it had Really bad Body rot. The fenders were gone, the doors ect. So i put on New fenders, Doors, a box, and a tailgate.

I was told it had a 347 stroker in it, which i am starting to lean on that it does because it doesnt sound like any 302 i have heard. I have compaited it to my bro in laws and it doesnt sound the same. which they both have the same exhaust.. none lol. This thing is mad fast, i have takin this thing over 100mph just to see the acceleration, and it smoked my 86 bmw. It can also burn my 35's like they arent even on the truck. I have a video of it running, Any comments would be appreciated weather you think it is a 347 or not. Its hard to tell because it looks like it is stock. But you can tell it was taken out before.

Some things i want to do is carburate this engine. I just like how it looks better, and i dont like all the electronic gizmos that it has. and i can remove the unused things for emissions. You think it would be worth carburating?
Before

After


YouTube - 1987 F-150 with a 347 (I was told it was)

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

i put a carb on my 89 and i can tell you anything you need to know. you need a manifold and a carb. first thing you do is pull off the stock manifold upper and lower and put on the carbed one. next find a distributor that doesn't run with electronic crap i used an HEI off ebay but it is so big i had to use an offset aircleaner and it rubs where the heater hose goes into the manifold, i basically HATE that distributor! cut all the wires that you no longer need. get a bypass fuel pressure regulator run a line from the filter on the frame by the front of the cab to the inlet of the regulator, run 2 lines to the carb and the bypass line to the tank. but the stock fuel return lines are not big enough to work with a carb so you have to use 3/8ths tube or -6an line, i used a combination of both. russell makes the adaptor to go from your fuel filter to -6an line (which you need because unregulated it has 40lbs of pressure and that would blow apart a regular clamped hose). the part #s for the adaptors you need are for 3/8 hard line to -6an 640850 and from 5/16 to -6an 640860. you will need the 3/8ths to go from the regulator to hard line and another one to go from the hard line to -6an and then another to go from 6an to the tank which is 5/16 on the return side. you will need to put your fuel pump on a toggle switch but be sure to keep the inertia switch intact so if you roll over it shuts off the fuel pump. the inertia switch is at the base of the steering collumn where it goes through the firewall on the interior side, it is a pink wire.

also forgot you need to weld a bracket up for the throttle cable and the aod cable, you need to buy an aod to carb adaptor from ebay or another source and play with it till you get it right. i used the stock bracket and modified it to bolt to the carb.

oh another tip, if it's a 4x4 put in jet extentions so you don't starve the secondaries when you are on a hill. do this before you bolt on the carb.

please just pm me if you have any questions it's really easy to do but there isn't too much info out there on it...

here are some pics of it already done

 

do you not have to smog check these trucks there? or does a carb not effect the test? here in cali we wouldnt pass the visual inspection, also the smog testers here hook up the trucks puter and looks at that too.

but it looks sweet, maybe a solid color paint?

 

hah just swap out the gauge cluster every time you go in so it looks like you drove less than 1,000 miles and your exempt in pa :-)

i kinda want to take my truck to autozone to get them to read the codes just out of curiousity as to what the computer thinks is happening lol with all the wires for my fuel injection cut hahahaha

 

let me put it this way. It deffinatly aint no 302 anymore. not quiet sure how much they bored it out but its very possible it is a 347 stoker.

 

eats honda's ****s rice! lol