Hi!

Well it's time for me to begin the planning of an engine rebuild. I plan to do this myself(first time ever), and just get the block machined (if it needs to).

My plan is to get the engine out, dismantle it ant see what parts need to be renewed. But I have also looked at some kits that I might use too
get a lot of new parts into the engine.

I was wondering if any of you have come across this rebuild kit?

http://www.performance-auto-parts.co...-kits-ford.php

Would this kit be ok for my 61 engine? I'm not looking to get more power
or anything, just a good running and reliable engine.

Any tips in this manner would be apriciated.

Regards
Ronny

 

It states that the cam and lifters are not included. I'd probably pass on that as the kits on ebay through a reputable place like maddog are about the same and include quality parts and a "FULL KIT" You can even choose your own upgrades for a very reasonable price increase. eBay Motors: 390 FE Ford 1964-65 Engine Rebuild kit (item 220269840575 end time Sep-15-08 07:58:54 PDT)

shipping ran me about 45.00 from FL/CA

Dont just run off and buy a kit. Hang out a little while and pickk the brains here. Alot of great help and hind sight is always 20/20 my .02¢

 

Thanks for the reply!

I can se your point! I'll rather have a complete kit when I start.

Would that kit you linked also fit my 61 390 FE?

Regards
Ronny

 

I would call them directly, they are very knowledgeable & helpful. However, you don't want to buy a kit until the block and all parts have been gone through, mic'd and your sure the engine is rebuild-able. The machinist will let you know what size (pistons, main & rod bearings etc..) you will need with the kit. So hold off on a kit purchase till you are truly ready for one. If you have built an engine before you might be ok to do some of this work, I'd strongly suggest getting a copy of Steve Christ how to rebuild big block fords if you plan to do it yourself as a FE novice. Great reading not 100% correct throughout but really good. Amazon.com: How To Rebuild BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES: Steve Christ: Books

 

Thanks!

I actually bought that book recently, so I guess that will be good to have.

I was unsure in wich order to do things, so I'm glad you pointed me in the right direction, so machinist first, kit later, tanks for the advise.

I plan to pull the motor and trans in a couple of weeks, and then pull it apart. So I will see then...

 

Hey between this place and that book I managed to the F100's 352 back together, and it actually runs LOL.. pretty solid so far too haha BOL keep us posted.

 

Thunder, No, and No again. The kit from your link is intended to rebuild the mid 70s truck 390. That means that you'll get 381Ps for pistons, or something like it. I recognize the kit. The pistons will give you LESS THAN 8 to 1 compression. Parts wholesalers have THOUSANDS of these worthless ultra low compression slugs laying around, and will almost give them to you to get rid of them. They aren't worth useing even if you get them for free. Not in a truck, and certainly not in a car. And then there is the thrust flange issue, the kits almost always the wider flanged thrust bearings, which won't fit your early block, at least not without some block work.

The MadDog kit might have better pistons, but you still have to machine the block to fit the wider thrust bearings. When you are searching out kits, get them to tell you exactly what part number pistons you are going to be recieving, and what brand of pistons are they. Engines without enough compression lack power and use excess fuel. You certainly don't want to build in a problem, do you ? DinosaurFan, at home as himself

 

They'll put the kit together the way you want it, thrust bearings and all. Same price. Which is why he's here, looking for advice (positive advice) ads in answers to the issues, anyone can point out that issues exist. As my boss would say "Don't bring me the problem, bring me the solution. I have enough problems"

On that note: as mentioned, see your machinist and if you want post his responses/input here for a second opinion. He may even be able to beat maddog's and many others on a kit price.

 

TB, I should have been specific, you should ask for Silvolite 1116s, Silvolite 1131s. With a very light shave on the top of the block, you could make good use of H395Ps, from sealedpower. ask whomever is going to do your block what he recommends, he probably gets his stuff from the same WD that our shop uses. The numbers your T Bird does not want are 1139 and 381P, unless of course, you're building a stroker, and that is a whole 'nother thread. DinosaurFan, at home as himself

 

Thanks,I will ask the "machinist". It's still some weeks before I get real deep and dirty on my fingers, but when I do I will ask you guys for a scond opinion, maybe even post som pictures for your experienced eyes. Who knows, I might not even need a whole kit...

The engine is'nt running all that bad, it smokes when I step on it in trafic, gray/black smoke, so the guys around here thinks it is bad rings or somethings. I really hope that the pistons are okay, and alle that is needed is to hone(is that the right word?) it.

And, any tips for a newbie DIY is greatly apriciated.

Regards
Ronny

 

IF it runs good--that means it doesn't miss, starts easily, has plenty of power?

Gray/black smoke is a rich condition. Have you adjusted the idle mixture, checked the float level and carb condition in general?

Does the engine use oil?

Have you done a compression test?

Perhaps you can do some simple fix its--perhaps a new carb even--and kick the rebuild can down the road.

Good luck.

 

Totally agree on this, diagnose the engine since it's a runner. Then go from there. Vac gauge, timing light, compression tester will do wonders towards getting to the bottom of what really needs to be done.

How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

a cheapo leak down tester can be had at harbor freight as well. Really great tool for engine diagnosis.
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

Yes, seems like that would be the best. It had a Road Demon carb on it, and it smoked down the whole city . So now I have bought a new 1405 Edelbrock carb(600cfm) and have put that on. It smokes a lot less now, but it does it still.

I have a compression tester on my shopping list fir next week, but I cant find a vacum gauge nearby where I live(Norway). Does summit have one you would recomend?

I do not know how to operate a timing light, but want to learn it, is there a place I can read about using one?

One of the reasons why I was thinking about a rebuild, is that the car has a terrible vibratiom in the 50-65 mph range. It seems to come from front somewhere, but I cannot be entirely sure. It is good to drive from 0-50, but after that its not much fun.

I have had the driveshaft at a shop for balancing, And while there I had new u-joints installed, so the axel should be ok now.

When installing the axel again, I noticed that when I put the yoke in place, there are some movement whene I rock it back and forth, might this be the problem? I have what we over here call whitemetall bushings for the endpiece of the transmission, so that might help getting replaced.

Another thing I will to next week is to get my wheels balanced, just to eliminate that possible cause to.

Regards
Ronny

 

TBRon, sounds like you have a bunch of stuff to check before you must tear the engine apart. What kind of fuel do you have available in Norway ? I'm betting your gasoline is differant and that may be the cause of some of the trouble. DinosaurFan

 

I use 95 Octane(non-leaded), with lead additives. We also have 98 and 92 octane (non-leaded).