I just put new brakes all the way around my 1994 F350 4x4.

When I am driving in excessive stop an go traffic from 40mph to 0 excessively, I can smell the brakes on the front when I get out.

It is the faint burning brake smell....

I had ZERO problems with the front brakes before, I only replaced them because I have only had the truck for a year and wanted to go through and replace any 'wear' items.

I replaced the rear shoes, brake springs and wheel cylinders, bled the system (both sides and the from RABS valve) and put everything back in service.

The brakes are behaving well, but I do have a bit of a concern that they don't grab as hard as they used to. (i.e. I can't lock up the wheels).

If both sides of the front brakes smell hot, I would think that both calipers are working and there are no problems.

Could my rear brakes not be adjusted correctly and causing the front brakes to work too hard?

Anything helps.

What is the proper adjustment routine for setting up the rear brakes?

Please advise,
Chris

 

You have drum brakes for the rear axle. How far down can you push the emergency brake pedal? Seeing how much travel your emergency brake pedal has is a way to determine if the rear brakes are tight enough. Now, if you have the emergency brake on the driveshaft, at the rear of the transmission, what I just posted doesn't matter.

When you step on the emergency brake pedal, it should go pretty far down, close to the floor, but not hit the floor. Check this on a hill and see if it will hold the truck there. If it hits the floor and won't hold the truck, they are too loose. If they grab with 3 clicks on the pedal, they are tight, probably too tight. The first two clicks, the brakes shouldn't be catching yet, the 3rd, it should start to take hold.

This is how I check them. I don't know what the service manual would say about how to check them.

 

Great,

I will watch that when I get in the truck next time, and adjust as necessary.

They definitely aren't too tight, I can push them almost all the way down, if not ALL the way down.

Regards,
Chris

 

The problem with checking them this way is that if the cable is stretched out it gives you skewed results.

The proper way to check the adjustment on drum brakes is to jack the wheel up in the air and spin it. If the shoes drag lightly all the way around the rotation, then they are adjusted correctly. If they don't touch, or don't touch all the way around, they are too loose. If you can't move the wheel at all then they are too tight.

If you have limited slip and you only jack one wheel up or if you have an open differential, jack one wheel up and leave the tranny in park then the wheel will obviously not spin at all.

Regardless, it's probably not your problem, although you should definitely adjust drum brakes at every opportunity and especially after replacing shoes. The smell from the fronts is either something on the rotor (grease, dirt from the brake job) or the brand and quality of pads that you bought.

 

I will take care to properly adjust the brakes.....thank you.

As for the smell, I cleaned the brakes thoroughly after replacement. I bought the Napa pads that are one step down from the highest quality pads used for heavy towing/hauling. Since I don't tow and/or haul very often I figured I didn't need them......but if they are going to behave like this I might just spend the money so I have that confidence. I live in the mountains, so it might be a good idea anyway.

Thoughts?

Chris

 

To me, brakes are pretty important stuff. I always get the best stuff I can buy. I've seen and experienced what cheap brake parts can do, and it's not something you want to have to deal with on any level.

That being said, brakes do tend to run hotter while they are braking in, too. So I would probably give them a few hundred miles and then see how you like them.

 

After you make sure everything is adjusted properly...Brake pads should always be properly broke-in before venturing out in regular driving. The manufacturer should provide you with their recomended procedure with the pads. This usually involves a series of stops from low speed and slowly increasing speed to introduce heat slowly to the pad, to somewhat cure them, and help prevent glazing and poor pad wear/life. Also when heating up the pads for break-in, do not make complete stops (holding the brakes locked) for this can cause hot spots on the rotors and drums causing them to warp or have uneven wear. Again, check with the manufacturer for proper specs and procedures.