72 month interest free financing
#1
#2
GM has been doing it for quite a while. Don't know if Ford plans to follow.
Remember...there is no such thing as "0% APR Financing"...in each and every case you sacrifice a rebate to get that rate. For instance...I sold a Super Duty today...the customer had their choice of $7500 in rebates OR $2000 in rebates and 0% APR. To finance at 0% would cost the customer $5500 more!!! You just pay the finance charge all at once...if you pay off the loan early...you lose that amount of money.
It may work for you...do your due diligence...check it both ways!!!
Remember...there is no such thing as "0% APR Financing"...in each and every case you sacrifice a rebate to get that rate. For instance...I sold a Super Duty today...the customer had their choice of $7500 in rebates OR $2000 in rebates and 0% APR. To finance at 0% would cost the customer $5500 more!!! You just pay the finance charge all at once...if you pay off the loan early...you lose that amount of money.
It may work for you...do your due diligence...check it both ways!!!
#4
That's a good way to look at it, Ken. The loan for my 03 was 3.33%; it cost me ~$2,700 to finance my truck.
Can you take the rebates and still finance what's left through Ford Motor Credit, if they're competitive? You won't get the 0% deal but you could still get, say, 4.9% or less. Otherwise I think most dealers work with several lenders to get competitive rates.
And I think many don't realize that the interest rate is negotiable, if your credit is good enough.
Can you take the rebates and still finance what's left through Ford Motor Credit, if they're competitive? You won't get the 0% deal but you could still get, say, 4.9% or less. Otherwise I think most dealers work with several lenders to get competitive rates.
And I think many don't realize that the interest rate is negotiable, if your credit is good enough.
#5
Again...do your homework. FMCC probably not be competetive with local sources. Make sure you take into consideration all the programs that are available. For instance...if you finance with FMCC at regular rates...you may qualify for a small rebate in addition to the Customer Cash...generally $1000.
I would suggest that you probably would be better off taking all the rebates...finance with FMCC...and then pay off the loan after a short term...2-3 months...by financing with your local source. Your local source should still give you a new vehicle rate...and you still get the largest portion of the bonus rebate for financing with FMCC.
Hopefully this makes sense to you.
I would suggest that you probably would be better off taking all the rebates...finance with FMCC...and then pay off the loan after a short term...2-3 months...by financing with your local source. Your local source should still give you a new vehicle rate...and you still get the largest portion of the bonus rebate for financing with FMCC.
Hopefully this makes sense to you.
#6
Ken is absolutely right. Do your homework. A lot of it will depend on how much you finance. You may find that the 0% works in your favor when you balance interest charges vs rebates lost. My experiences have been that the larger the amount financed, ie $30k+, 0% is your best bet. Your payments are typically lower as is your total amount financed. Food for thought
#7
With the certain exception of Honda, virtually every company offers you the choice of either a cash rebate or reduced-rate financing. Have you ever wondered which incentive the manufacturer would prefer that you pick? Without a doubt, it's the financing. Think about it: if the loan should get paid off early, they (FMCC,GMAC, etc...) make out like a bandit. And these loans get paid off early all the time: trade-ins, totaled in an accident, people get tired of making the payments and just want to stop mailing a check every month. They get to "take back" most of an incentive they gave you to buy the vehicle in the first place. But when you take the rebate, how can they get that rebate back? They can't- it's gone, and there's no way they can recover it. My point is this: until loan rates, on average, get up into the 15% range, you're almost always better off to take the rebate. Figure it both ways; don't just assume 0% for whatever term is a good deal for you, just because it SOUNDS good.
And for the record, Honda has never offered a rebate, only lease deals and reduced-rate financing. There must be a reason...
And for the record, Honda has never offered a rebate, only lease deals and reduced-rate financing. There must be a reason...
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#8
With the certain exception of Honda, virtually every company offers you the choice of either a cash rebate or reduced-rate financing. Have you ever wondered which incentive the manufacturer would prefer that you pick? Without a doubt, it's the financing. Think about it: if the loan should get paid off early, they (FMCC,GMAC, etc...) make out like a bandit. And these loans get paid off early all the time: trade-ins, totaled in an accident, people get tired of making the payments and just want to stop mailing a check every month. They get to "take back" most of an incentive they gave you to buy the vehicle in the first place. But when you take the rebate, how can they get that rebate back? They can't- it's gone, and there's no way they can recover it. My point is this: until loan rates, on average, get up into the 15% range, you're almost always better off to take the rebate. Figure it both ways; don't just assume 0% for whatever term is a good deal for you, just because it SOUNDS good.
And for the record, Honda has never offered a rebate, only lease deals and reduced-rate financing. There must be a reason...
And for the record, Honda has never offered a rebate, only lease deals and reduced-rate financing. There must be a reason...
Does that make sense?
The only way the rebate makes more sense is if you're the type of person who doesnt keep the car/truck for the entire length of the loan but instead, get into something new every 3 years or so. In that case, take the rebates. They will lower your payoff amount.
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