I need a few ideas on how to adjust my valves. I am not a mechanic--but more a painter. I need my yblock valves adjusted and do not have the tappet-tool and will need step-by-step instructions. 1 side is tapping and I need this fixed. Thanks ---Bill

 

From an old post:
"Well if you mean preliminary lash (COLD): Gap at .19 using a step feeler gauge is best. At TDC adjust Exhaust #1,4,5 Intake #1,2,7. Rotate crank 180 and adjust Ex 6,8 and In 4,5. Rotate crank 270 and adjust Ex 2,3,7 and In 3,6,8.

If you mean final lash (HOT): Use the step feeler gauge while the motor is warmed up and running at .18 gap. And remember to burn your arm at least once."

 

thanks Sam Fear---I will try to burn my arm at least once--LOL....Bill

 

Marking the outside of the crank pulley at 90, 180 and 270 degrees makes this very easy. Wild Bunch gave this tip quite a while back, and I have used it twice. Having the damper off, or motor out of truck simplifies the process more. Take a cloth type ruler like used in sewing. Put the end on the timing mark and wrap around damper to give the damper circumerence. Then divide the circumference by 4. That number will be the distance around the damper from the timing mark to 90 deg. Measure and make a mark at 90. Repeat multiplying by 2 for 180 and 3 for 270. I made marks using a yellow paint marker pen. Just dots but they show up well.

 

thanks---I am a dummy about engines anymore. I do mostly body and paint and always hope the engine stuff works out ok, but yblocks are a old school thing,and hard to find someone to do this. I know a guy in copley that could do it but won't. I wish he would just come over and do his magic on this good ole yblock--hint--hint!!!! Thanks guys--Bill

 

Sorry, dont have time for trucks anymore. The bees are busy and so am I.

Kevin Bigwin

 

The bees do ALL the work--and you pull the honeycomb out--sounds like 1/2 hour of work and 3 hours getting the stickiness off--haha!!! Bill