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Front 4x4 Hub Removal / Rotor change out
#31
02-12-2011, 08:12 AM
I'm at the point in this project that the third picture shows. I'm changing out my rotors and I've got to the point of having the spindle nut removed after a lot of searching at Napa for the stupid spanner socket. What do I have to take off now to remove the hub and rotor assembly? I know it's been said many times already in this thread but I'm still not sure. It looks like there is a ring with holes in it that has four ears on it? Anyone know what I'm talking about and what to do next?
#32
02-12-2011, 09:13 AM
I'm at the point in this project that the third picture shows. I'm changing out my rotors and I've got to the point of having the spindle nut removed after a lot of searching at Napa for the stupid spanner socket. What do I have to take off now to remove the hub and rotor assembly? I know it's been said many times already in this thread but I'm still not sure. It looks like there is a ring with holes in it that has four ears on it? Anyone know what I'm talking about and what to do next?
you need the special socket. You can get them @ Oreilly's or Autozone. I want to say $20..Just make sure its for your axle ttb50 or dana 60. different sizes.
Last edited by Marshall91F250; 02-12-2011 at 09:17 AM. Reason: spelling
#33
02-12-2011, 09:26 AM
#34
02-12-2011, 09:44 AM
I believe you are talking about the inner adjusting nut.
You should have something similar to this socket.
KD Tools 3246 - Spindle Socket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
#35
02-12-2011, 10:29 AM
Logistics Pro
Sounds like you have the lock nut off. Next is the washer with holes, that just pulls off. Under the washer with holes is another nut like the outer lock nut that needs to be removed.Then the hub and rotor assembly will pull off. The rotor is held on the hub by the lug bolts. a shop press or a hammer is used to press them out.
When installing the hub and rotor back on the spindle the first nut will have a small pin that fits into the washer with holes. This locks the first nut so it won't move. Take care to get this pin allined with one of the holes in the washer, then install the outer lock nut.
When installing the hub and rotor back on the spindle the first nut will have a small pin that fits into the washer with holes. This locks the first nut so it won't move. Take care to get this pin allined with one of the holes in the washer, then install the outer lock nut.
#37
02-12-2011, 04:41 PM
Thanks guys that helped a lot. I got her just about finished. Took quite a while but is about the only guidance I've had so i've just been taking it nice and easy. I'm having one more problem though. There is a ring, I think it's called a retainer ring? After you take off the chrome cover of the hub, this ring is the next piece that comes out. I'm having trouble getting it back in. I second checked that the washer was on the first spindle nuts peg and everything seems tight. Is there some secret to getting this ring back on?
#38
02-20-2011, 12:05 PM
Hi guys, I have a 86 f150 4x4 and im trying to take the hub and rotor off BUT, the hub body wont come out. I've taken the snap ring out and everyone says it should slide right out, it wont. It moves a bit back and forth but it just wont come out. I dont want to damage anything so if you guys have any pointers as to what to do? Maybe I missed something? Any feedback will be much appreciated.
#39
02-20-2011, 05:02 PM
Logistics Pro
There sould be a snap ring on the axle shaft, and another inside, outer edge of the wheel hub. Both need to be removed, the axle ring needs snap ring pliers, and the one in the hub can be a pain in the a$$ to get out sometimes. I usually use two small screwdrivers to weasel it out. One to lift the end, and the other to pry it out.
#40
02-21-2011, 01:28 PM
#41
03-12-2011, 07:09 PM
Help Please:
I have an 85 F250 4x4 with the lockwasher won't move problem. I have the $20 autozone locknut socket and the outer locknut is off.
What do I do to loosen or pry the inner lockwasher off, the quote below says it "just pulls off"; I tired some needle nose and locking forceps, it hasn't moved.
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: westen SD
Posts: 750
farmert is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sounds like you have the lock nut off. Next is the washer with holes, that just pulls off. Under the washer with holes is another nut like the outer lock nut that needs to be removed.Then the hub and rotor assembly will pull off. The rotor is held on the hub by the lug bolts. a shop press or a hammer is used to press them out.
When installing the hub and rotor back on the spindle the first nut will have a small pin that fits into the washer with holes. This locks the first nut so it won't move. Take care to get this pin allined with one of the holes in the washer, then install the outer lock nut.
__________________
I have an 85 F250 4x4 with the lockwasher won't move problem. I have the $20 autozone locknut socket and the outer locknut is off.
What do I do to loosen or pry the inner lockwasher off, the quote below says it "just pulls off"; I tired some needle nose and locking forceps, it hasn't moved.
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: westen SD
Posts: 750
farmert is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sounds like you have the lock nut off. Next is the washer with holes, that just pulls off. Under the washer with holes is another nut like the outer lock nut that needs to be removed.Then the hub and rotor assembly will pull off. The rotor is held on the hub by the lug bolts. a shop press or a hammer is used to press them out.
When installing the hub and rotor back on the spindle the first nut will have a small pin that fits into the washer with holes. This locks the first nut so it won't move. Take care to get this pin allined with one of the holes in the washer, then install the outer lock nut.
__________________
#42
03-12-2011, 09:32 PM
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If it is the big snap ring on the inside of the outer hub, one end should have a notch you can hook with a small screwdriver and pry out, just enough to get another small screwdriver behind it and work it around. use one screwdriver to pry out one to pry up. if it is rusted/stuck in can be PITA. You may have to push outer hub gear in slightly to get look ring to come loose. If it is the inner C clip on end of axle shaft, I have an old pair of needle nose with tips ground slightly use them backwards to pull snap ring PITA but only thing I have used that doesn't fail under strong snap ring.
#43
03-12-2011, 09:54 PM
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For removing the old wheel bearing races, they can be driven out from opposite side of hub with long punch/rod. There is usually a couple of notches to get to back side of race. For driving the new wheel bearing races I take old race to grinder and cut it down just enough so it will slide into hub. Then use a block of wood laid across new race, drive evenly in till flush, once flush carefully put old modified race on top of new race and drive rest of way. useing this method spreads the impact around full race face and prevents damage from localized impact. Of course a proper race driver works also.
P.S.
Make sure you put the race in facing right way. Trying to get one out you put in backwards is real PITA, trust me.
P.S.
Make sure you put the race in facing right way. Trying to get one out you put in backwards is real PITA, trust me.
#44
06-08-2011, 05:14 PM
Separate Rotor from Hub - an added puzzler
You should have a Dana 60.
To replace the rotor, here is a basic rundown:
1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
Adjustment:
I always adjust wheel bearings by feel. But this is the factory procedure
1. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings.
2. Back off the nut, tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs while turning the hub again.
3. Back off 90 deg. Install the lock washer so that the holes line up on the tang on the adj nut, tighten slightly as needed to line up.
4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 175 ft-lbs.
Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
Jason
To replace the rotor, here is a basic rundown:
1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in. Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put back together.
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
Adjustment:
I always adjust wheel bearings by feel. But this is the factory procedure
1. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while turning the hub back and forth to seat the bearings.
2. Back off the nut, tighten to 30-40 ft-lbs while turning the hub again.
3. Back off 90 deg. Install the lock washer so that the holes line up on the tang on the adj nut, tighten slightly as needed to line up.
4. Install the outer lock nut and tighten to 175 ft-lbs.
Reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
Jason
OK here's the images - this is looking at the back side of the hub (engine side) - you can see why the rotor needs replacing. Bolts are out but the knurled assembly there, or whatever you want to call it, is larger than the hole in the rotor - I can't see how to get the thing off. Any clues?
DMT
#45
06-08-2011, 06:05 PM
Dingus,
That looks something like an ABS tone ring, not something normally found on these trucks (86-94). What year is your truck?
Having said that, I would imagine the tone ring is just pressed onto the hub after the rotor is in place. And if you can find away to support the hub, and press off the rotor and tone ring at the same time, you'd be in business. It looks like there is a small gap between the ring and the rotor, can you fit a 2 or 3 jaw gear puller in there?
That looks something like an ABS tone ring, not something normally found on these trucks (86-94). What year is your truck?
Having said that, I would imagine the tone ring is just pressed onto the hub after the rotor is in place. And if you can find away to support the hub, and press off the rotor and tone ring at the same time, you'd be in business. It looks like there is a small gap between the ring and the rotor, can you fit a 2 or 3 jaw gear puller in there?