I took the #4 wire back out, cleaned it, coated it with some Electicians tape. But that only worked for an hour or so. Its back to to the Check engine now. I have to wait on some money before I do any more. Wires are $75 and plugs are nearly $30.
I also have to fix the Speedometer drive in the tail shaft. So I wont be back for awhile.
It's a booger to be so broke you cant even afford the gas to drag the boat to the lake for fishing.

 

One thing that helped me alot when I changed the plugs on my 97 F-150 was to remove the main power relay. I just disconnected the main wire from the battary terminal block and you can take the bracket bolts out and slide the connectors off. Then you can move it to the engine and you can actually get your hand back in there. I am an engineer, but I would be ashamed if I designed that truck engine placement. Did the same thing on my 98 Navigator with the 5.4 and it was a big help. At least your not trying to get that tiny little screw that hold the coil pack on with the 4.6L. Hope this helps. Changed all my plugs in under 2 hours.

 

Nawwww Paul. You'd be proud as an engineer to say you got all that stuff in there, so neat and orderly!

I need a couple plug wires. I cant afford a whole set.
Anybody know where I can get just a couple of the longest ones?

 

Everyone makes a huge deal out of changing number 4 but its not really that bad. just make sure you have a spark plug socket, 6" extension, ujoint, and 12" extension. It makes it quick and painless!

 

Actually now that I've have mine out two or three times, it's pretty quick. I'm not doing it again until I get a new set of wires and plugs because I don't want to tempt those Four-thread spark plug holes.

 

If you cant afford new wires , the simplest thing and cheapest way to get new wires aside from stealing them from some 1 elses parked truck
is to go to a small engine shop , or a place that sells chainsaws exc..

Most sell sparkplug wire by the foot , and its genraly cheap , like around $0.60 a ft .

than just buy what you need , and save the old rubber boot from your old wire and eathier the metal end u can save or buy a new end , for about 20 cents , and make up your own wires.

now the thing with carbon or fiber core , compaired to small engine shop wires are that you may get noise in your radio from useing the copper core wire , rather than whats reccomended.

but with the copper core wire , it lasts about 2 times longer than the reccomended wires, and also alot cheaper. just keep in mind that you may get engine noise in your radio speakers.

but that shouldent matter much to you , if you realy need wires , and besides you can always put a power filter on your radio main power fuse , to cut out engine noise, if it is bothersum.

hope that helps

chris

 

It does help Chris. My #4 wire seems to be arching to ground under a load. I want to make certain its the wire before I get a whole set.
Your Chain saw fix is a great idea.
Thanks.

 

I've read contrary advice on using anti-seize when working with aluminum heads. Some say yes,others say no. Which is it and why? I'm going to try to change the plugs (going to see if I can find some PPs or their new equivalent today first rather than the SP432 AGSF32FM I was supplied with last night) today on my '97 T-Bird and the anti-seize is the only question that lingers.

Thanks

 

In the process of doing plugs on my '97, 5.4. The suggestion about using a length of rubber hose was soooo helpful. I also discovered that using a little duct-tape to prevent the extensions & universals from coming apart, was also a huge headache saver. I'm about 2 hrs. in. Passenger side last night, driver's side tonight.

 

Just finished the plug change on my '97, 5.4. Read alot of these posts looking for guidance and suggestions...length of rubber hose, blowing out the plug holes before pulling the plugs..., etc. One question remained: pull the fuel rail or not! Here's how it went for me. Passenger side was a little tricky, but with extensions & universals, got all COPs & plugs with out moving the fuel rail. Did have to move the large fuse box & some of the wiring. Driver's side was a different story. Thought #8 would be the tough one, so that's where I started. It actually wasn't too bad. THEN #7! There is a vacum/diaphram attached to the fuel rail directly above the #7 COP & plug. Made it impossible to get a wrench/socket on the COP bolt. I tried grinding sockets & universals, bending wrenches, but nothing worked. Some said that a universal 7mm socket would work, but none could be found in my area. So, I "bit the bullet," and decided to pull the fuel rail. In fact, all I had to do was remove the two 8mm bolts, and slide it up & back a bit (about 1/2" did the trick). Suddenly #7 taunted me no more. Anyway, I learned that I did, in fact, have to move the fuel rail, but it turned out to be no big deal.

 

same '97 F150, 4x4, 4.6, changed plugs at 55k due to age...threads concern, same as some on this Thread...new Motorcraft OEM and new wires while I was at it. Right tools most important - extensions, universal, ratchet... I did all my work from the top but subsequent work revealed easy access to back plug through wheel well...just a thought if you want to take the time to remove wheel and well cover... Now at 69k miles, all s well...

 

I changed the plugs in my '02 Mustang GT 4.6L. Its not a truck, but should be mostly the same. I see there are a few different ideas here about to change plugs with a cold or hot motor. Well, back in '08 a Ford dealer mechanic told me when changing plugs; aluminum heads must be done when completely cold, cast iron heads should be done when hot/warm. He said the reason to change plugs on an alum head when cold is because the warmer it is, the softer/weaker the metal gets, thus u can strip or destroy the threads. And with Ford having a problem with the spark plugs shooting out of motor on the older mod motors (not enough threads on pre 2005 2-valve heads on V8 & V10s), if it were me i would try to protect the threads as much as possible. By letting the engine cool for only a couple hours (2 hours) is not really completely cold internally, i would let it sit overnight. Unless the vehicle is left out in -50 deg F, then it would be completely cold by 2 hrs. If u ever worked on a motor after its been off for only 2 hours u would understand my last statement. The outside might be cool/warm to the touch, but the inside combustion chamber is still very hot. I would let it sit at least overnight.

Before i changed mine, I bought the KD Tools 41740 3-piece (+ case) Spark Plug Service Kit. It has 3 magnetic sockets & 3 different length extensions that are swivel & permanently mounted to each socket. I took off each coil pack, blew out hole around plug, put socket/extension in, use ratchet to loosen, pull socket/extension out + spark plug stuck in socket, put new plug in socket (with anti-seize on threads), place in hole and turn counter-clockwise 1 turn to make sure threads are lined up straight, then tightened clock-wise by hand until u cant anymore, & take torque wrench and tighten to specs. If i had to do it all over again, I would consider buying the thread chaser/tap on an extension to clean each thread.