Is There Another Name For The Evap Pressure Sensor Please
1997 Ranger
3.0
176000

 

I Am Having A 1443 Code That Will Not Go Away!!! I Have Changed The Purge Valve And The Sensor(thermistor) The Dpfe And The Egr Regulator Valve(?) I Have Forgotten The Name Of It I Think. At Any Rate I Don't Think Anythink Is Left To Replace. My Question Is--is It Possible That The Seal On The Tank Where The Pump And Float Go In Being Less Than Perfect Is Causing This??

 

MAYBE someone will know if there is a way to know if the EVAP canister is bad other than a just looking for cracks and external damage any help is appreciated

 

boy do I feel stupid all, this time I have been trying to get rid of this 1443 code and this morning is the first time I think to pull the evap canister off and WOW, there is a big hole in the back of it. I am definetly not a mechanic but to me this just seems like a problem. So I guess my next step is to go to the junk yard and try to find a can. without a hole in it. I will post the result

 

Well Replacing The Evap Can. Didn't Do It. The Only Other Idea I Have Been Given Is A Blocked Hose Between The Purge Valve And The Ftp Sensor,but I Can't Find The Hose They Are Referring To. The Only Hose That Goes To The Tank WHERE THE FTP IS SUPPOSED TO BE Comes From The Evap Can. Itself. Doesn't Anyone Have Any Ideas. ALSO THE PRINTOUT FROM AUTOZONE SAYS THE EVAP PRESSURE SENSOR MAYBE FAILED. WHAT IS A EVAP PRESSURE SENSOR

 

no ideas out there

 

P1443 is for small or no purge flow, so check the canisters purge valve, it's actuating solenoid & the solenoids electrical connector & wiring, the output vacuum line from the canister over to the intake manafold, for obstructions, kinks, cracks, connections, ect.

 

P1443 is caused by a faulty purge flow sensor. Three wire sensor located near the canister purge solenoid.

 

I have replaced all the vacuum lines(under the hood) and sensors and the purge valve still no joy thanks for the help

 

OK, did you replace the canister with a new one, or one from a salvage yard????

Have you checked for a purge signal at the purge solenoids electrical connector???

If so, is the solenoid working???? Just because it's new shouldn't automatically earn it a pass, make those new parts earn that pass!!!!

Pull the canisters input vapr line that comes from the gas tank & check for vacuum at the canister connection, when you start the engine.

If none there, then pull the canisters output vacuum line that goes over to the engine & check for vacuum on the hose.

Let us know what you find.

 

1.)I used a canistor from the salvage yard $10 v/s $135
2.)I have strong vacuum from the intake hose but if there is any vacuum at the canistor where the tank line connects it is minimal
3.) I am going to have to look around to figure out how to test the purge valve connections to give an answer on that

 

OK, good test & feedback, so you know the vacuum line to the engine is unobstructed, now you can concentrate on the evap systems electrical signal to the purge valve actuating solenoid & it's operation of the purge valve.

Did you make sure the canister you got from the salvage yard was ok & not saturated with fuel????

 

I did the best I could by squeezing it to see if I could feel the charcoal moving I also smelled it and it didn't smell to strong of fuel.
I am still looking for test procedures for the electrical side and I will post my findings

 

Make sure your new purge flow sensor is not installed backward.

 

well in the process of checking vacuum with a hand vacuum pump I discoverd that although new it appears that some of the lines were too large and allowing a leak so new lines on I am going to take it for a test drive to see if the CEL stays off