1976 F250 4x4,
I am attempting to remove the Waren hubs,I have reached (what I believe to be called)the thrust washer's.Is there a specific tool required?If not,what is the correct way to remove the rest of the hub?

 

I have some info im lookin at for you right now...

 

Check out this web page:

http://warn.iwebcat.com/imgVD/WAR/61420C0-pn20990.pdf

 

It's the wheel bearing lock nut and adjusting nut.Thanks for the diagram,however it doesnt tell me how to remove them.The outside nut is the lock nut correct?It just spins,there is a spacer then what I think is the bearing adjustment nut,it is snug.I'm going back to the diagram to have another look.

 

Yes, there is a special tool, a giant socket looking thing with 4 prongs sticking out of it that engage the spindle nut, should cost 10-15 bucks at your local auto parts store. Or it your desperate you can make one with a peice of pipe and a sawzall, but its alot more work than its worth, trust me.

edit, there is a spacer between them, it is full of holes, there is a nipple on the most inward spindle nut, be sure that when you reassemble that the nipple is outward. then you must make sure that the nipple lines up with one of the holes on the spacer when it is in the keyway. many of these nipples have been broken off by people who didn't know better, this is no good, you'll need to buy another one, any autoparts store should have one in stock

 

You couldn't have done any better explaining that.Perfect.I got 'em.I didn't need the special tool to get 'em off,but I will buy on tomorrow for when I put them back in.Then I can put the torque wrench to 'em.

 

I didnt use a special tool on my old one. I just used 2 punches in holes across from eachother and twisted, worked like a chanp!

 

What about when you put them back in.How did you know when they were tight enough,or not to tight?Or did you use the proper tool?

 

A punch or screwdriver often works but sometimes that outer nut can be really tight, thats where a homemade one from a pipe came in, it was late and that that bearing was coming apart one way or another.

 

I see chisel marks on these things more than I care to admit. The chisel trick works on the rear end as well.

 

The tool you are referring to is called a spanner wrench. You will need one for a Dana 44 to remove and tighten the special nuts that hold the hub and bearings together. You can but this at most auto part stores NAPA, Autozone, Sears. Looks like a big socket with four prongs that attach to the nuts. apx 15-30 bucks

Here is a post for a Jeep rebuild but it shows good pictures of the 2 nuts and locking washer. Please note the pin in the inner nut and holes in the locking washer the goes between the two nuts. i.e. Nut, washer, nut.

Also to replace a Warn hub you do not need to remove these nuts?

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/8a/f7/0900823d800a8af7/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www.keystonekrawlers.com/Mods/Jeep/DANA44%20Hub/dana44_hub_rebuild.htm

 

What on the rear? Like full floater? 9'' doesn't have anything like that, I've never been misfortunate enough to tear down a 3/4 or one ton

 

I would rather tear down a 3/4 ton, you can replace the bearings without special equipment, and you don't have to worry about loosing a wheel if your shaft breaks at the flange. Been there, done that. The chisel will work on the front as well.

 

I used a chisel when I did the rear.I was able to get the front 's out by hand,they were that loose.Isn't there a specific torque setting they should be at?I was kinda concerned that they may be to tight or to loose.

 

I posted this earlier today in the wheel bearing thread.