I am a mechanic and at work today I got a 2000 5.4ltr that had a plug laying on the top of the head and COP broken and flapping around. Sounded like a vintage steam generator. I have been doing research on this problem since I bought my truck (99 f350 V10) and have heard many success stories about repairing the threads with the head still on the engine. So knowing this is possible I tried it myself.

I phoned up the local West-Can parts store and they had a specific step tap that requires no drilling and can fix the thread. It does say on the package to do this repair with the head off the motor but, I figured I would try it anyway and if it didn't work then pull the head. 20min vs. a 15hr head job. I decided to load the tap with a ton of wheel bearing grease at the tip and between the flutes on the tap and take my time. I got every piece of aluminum shaving and was able to run the steel insert into the threads with no problem and tourqe the plug down to 30ft/pds without worry.

Now for the final test after everything was re-assembled, turn the key and start it up!! Fingers crossed it fired right up and ran perfect, took it for a test drive and stomped on it and no problems. Anybody with a stripped spark plug hole I would say find a GOOD mechanic and get him to do this repair unless you want to spend a lot of money to pull the head. An easy 3000bucks vs. a painless 230bucks. Take your pick.

I hope this helps out everyone with this problem and happy wheeling.

 

To let you know ,most of us swear by Timesert for the proper fix of this type.
Rich

 

What is Timesert? I'm guessing this is the same kind of kit I bought to fix the problem? I'll get the part number and brand from work on Monday when I go back to work. I'll post all the info about what I used, who knows it might just be this Timesert kit.

 

I just looked into the Timesert kit and this was definatly not the kit that I used. The kit that I used was a single stepped tap that uses a slightly bigger tap initially to grab hold and then reams and steps up for the insert sizing. A single procedure and then all you have to do is set the insert and tourqe your plug. I will have to find out what this kit is that I used and let you all know. It only cost me 36bucks for the entire kit. And seriously about 20minutes start to finish for the front driver's side plug. It took me more time to read the instructions than to fix the problem.

The insert did look different than the one in the Timesert kit but, would esentially do the same job once seated.

 

Ha. As easy as it seems it could go into an emergency tool kit!

 

Having blown this past summer I have an avid interest in the topic of spark plugs. I thought the torque for the plugs was 14ft/ft.lb Has something been changed this leaves me (newbie) a bit confused

Cheers Willis

 

The correct tourqe is 30ft/lbs. Ford has issues this in one of their TSB's telling people to re-tourqe them to 30ft/lbs.


The kit that I used on Friday was made by Heli-Coil and came as a pack I got a Tap, Set tool, and 3 different solid inserts. This kit only cost me $32.23+tax and only set me back about 20min repaired and running. It doesn,t look like a temporary fix style kit to me and I will use it again. But, I would recommend possibly putting one in your glove box and hope you never have to use it. Also don't forget to throw in a small package of grease and wipes.


If you want the Heli-coil part number for this kit I can get it and you can get just the inserts so you could use the Tap and set tool again if need be.

 

Hi bro460 thank's for answering. Yes definitely, I'd like to have the part number for the kit and the insert helicoils. Any info you can post or send me will be much appreciated. After the plug popped I had all the plugs replaced and the dealership who repaired it used a helicoil. Cost for that was $300 and another $200 for the COP. Total bill was $916. Being 1300 miles from home we thought it was a fair price.

Thanks Willis

Vanguard motor home, 2000 E350 Super Duty

 

HeliCoil Sav-A-Thread kit part# 5334-14

HeliCoil Sav-A-Thread insert part# R5326-14L

Note: Make sure you load the tap with grease in the flutes and tip and be sure to clean the threads in the head before inserting the insert.

Hope this helps.

 

Hi bro460, I'm sure it will help, I'll get onto ordering a set right away. Much appreciated, and thanks also for the tip on the spark plug torque.

One more question, when inserting the thread insert do you use any sealer/ bonding agent, maybe like Loc-tite before breaking off the tang? Do you torque the thread insert into the new threads?

Cheers Willis

 

There is no tang to break off, if you look at the insert it is a soild insert with locking edges near the top so it won't come out. Use the long insert that is the same as the plug thread depth.

Please take your time and ensure that you use grease on the tap this will catch the shavings from going into the camber. Useing this tap there is no drilling required as well, which makes life a lot easier.

Good luck and let me know how you make out.

 

Do you need the HeliCoil Sav-A-Thread insert part# R5326-14L
It says the 5334-14 come with it all.
• Sav-A-Thread is the easiest way to permanently repair stripped 14mm spark plug holes.
• Uses to
• Three different insert lengths come with the kit to accomodate all spark plug reaches
• Positive mechanical locking feature means the insert will never come out!
• The piloted reamer tap means no drilling is necessary and perfect alignment of the tapped
• Includes: 14mm tap, insertion tool and (3) inserts

I sure I am missing something, I tend not to read the fine print

 

Yes there's enough inserts to do 1 hole in three differen't heads. For more than one repair you have to order more inserts. That's the way I understood it from Google searches. Somewhere I read about the number of insert threads matching the number of threads on the plug.

bro460 suggests using the part# R5326-14L (long) that's what I'll use if and when it becomes necessary. I'm going with the statement, "the fix is cheap enough to carry in the glove compartment", so along with a COP unit (not so cheap I guess) and a spark plug as a "just in case" kit. Seems when one is prepared for problems they rarely occur

I've been doing some searching and these kits are double the price in Canada (priced at the suggested list), and the inserts are $11 each. I'm sure they'll be selling a lot of them.
I'll be ordering mine from the USA where there's more competition and less price fixing.

Cheers Willis

 

Hi bro460
Ah! guess I'm full of questions tonight. We have the Triton V10 in our rig. It's a year 2000 also, would I still use the part# R5326-14L insert or a different insert for this engine?

Cheers Willis


2000 Vanguard on a 2000 E350 Super Duty Chassis

 

Being that you have a 2000 with the same 2valve head that I worked on, I think the only difference would be the extra set of valves on the V10. I would think that you would use the same insert I did. All you have to do is measure the thread lenght on the plug and match it with one of the inserts provided in the kit. Once you have used the insert from the kit which comes with one short, one medium, one long insert, I would order the same one to take it's place so you always have a complete kit in the glovie.
The part number of the insert given to you by me is for the one I used. And it is the long one in the kit.

I now feel like I got ripped off paying 32bucks + tax up here in Canada. I still can't believe they were that cheap to begin with, considering a good tap usually costs about that alone if not more.