I have a couple of questions...

I'm in the process of replacing my stock selector valve with a wells FSV2 and am removing the mechanical lift pump/replacing it with an electric job. The FSV2, as you may already know, is a universal valve for use with return lines. I have purchased the connector pigtail to install the new valve but have been unable to locate a wiring diagram for either valve. Where might I find one?

Also, I plan to remove the stock lift pump (already have a block-off plate to fit). I've selected a 140GPH procomp pump that comes with a 4-9 psi regulator. After several days of reading through the forum I'm planning on installing an inline filter between the valve (engine side) and the pump (which will be mounted close to the selector valve). I'll be running power to the pump via fused relay (power from battery, switched with ignition)...none of that piggy back off the valve positive nonsense. I plan on setting the regulator on 7psi.

Can anyone provide me with a few tips/suggestions? Am I on the right track?

Thanks for you help!
~Jon

 

You are on the right track, your pump sounds like it will be plenty big.

What year is your truck?

 

Thanks for the second opinion. The truck is a 1989 F350 xlt dualie, regular cab with a N/A 7.3L IDI. I'm in the process of a full restoration. To give you an idea of how "full" when I purchased the truck, there where several rust holes in the bed more than 1 foot in diameter!

I've already installed a new bed, door, and painted the frame. Next thing to tackle will be the hood, one of the fenders, and swapping the interior out. By the time I'm finished the truck will be hunter green w/tan interior (started out white/red).

~Jon

 

My personal opinion is that pump is too many GPH we only require 28 GPH @4-6 PSI to operate our truck... The holley red is widely used but it too has about 70+ gph which is still high. I just think that many GPH through the system is overkill.

 

I know I could easily get away with a cheapo faucet 28gph pump; I bought this setup because it was $60 plus shipping (pump and regulator) as opposed to faucet for $40-50. The key here is that my pro comp pump puts out 14PSI when flowing at 140GPH. I would Imagine it runs around 70GPH @ 7PSI; resulting in a hell of alot more pump per $.

Besides, this way I'll have a pump large enough to experiment later after ram air and exhasut (In case I want to toy with differenc injection pumps)

Pitty doing so would prolly be too much for the motor to take...

 

An IDI diesel can take more than you think, you just have to do it right.

 

Good news! I found a diagram for the fsv2! here
I'm off to look for a diagram of the Ford valve now (it would beat probing them all...what can I say, I'm selectively lazy)

Does anyone know of a good place to order complete wiring diagrams for these trucks? I've looked in both haynes manuals (engine and truck) knowing full well they wouldn't be there...they weren't. I'd really like to have a master diagram...the wiring in this truck is getting old and I like to know what I'm splicing before splicing it.

I know these engines have their strong points...if I ever find a turbo kit cheap enough I'd go for it. Either way, I'll be in the market for a cummins once I get out of college/save enough money to go for a good 24 valve. I love my truck, really do...but I love the cummins plant more

**Edit** There are now pics of the truck in my gallery...incase someone gets bored

 

I broke down and bought a complete diagram here it only cost $11.99, was delivered in less than 10 hours (pdf files in an email) and covers every circuit for every engine and option on an 89 F350 XLT.

So far, I've gathered the following:

Front tank sending unit: Dark blue-yellow
Rear tank sending unit: Yellow-light blue
Fuel gauge: Yellow-white (or white-yellow)

Switch wires:
outer most (closest to edge of plug): Red
second wire in (next to red): Brown-white

Switch on front tank: Red wire
Switch on rear tank: Brown-white wire (i think)

I'll post an update with the final results as soon as I can.

~Jon