when i back out of a parking spot or make a u trun or even turn a corner slow the front wheels will bind up

i took off the transfer case motor and turned the dial the motor would turn to 4wd low and to 4wd high but if i turned to auto it wouldnt do anything

is it supposed to turn when you switch to auto?

when i had the motor off the transfer case i saw it said like

in a circle 4l--------N--------4h

i figured that it will go to N when its in auto but it didnt and thats with a brand new motor........

i just went out and jacked up the truck and all 4 wheels are spinning so its stuck in 4wd but i can switch between 4wh and 4wl i just cant come out of that

any ideas anyone with a 97 explorer sport that can look at the order to the wires on the indash switch for me i want to compare make sure the four wires are pined in the right order


Any ideas?


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any ideas anyone i cant figure it out the switch is wired the correct way now but still cant get it out to 4wd i can switch between 4wh and 4wl but nothing happens when i switch to AUTO its still stays in 4wh.....

Anything would help

Thanks
-Chris-

 

Just because all 4 wheels are turning when its jacked up doesn't necessarily mean its locked in 4 wheel drive. In Auto mode, if the rear wheels turn but the front don't, the transfer case automatically engages 4 wheel drive until the front wheels turn at approximately same speed as rear wheels. When selector set to 4WD high, front is locked in continously. The shift motor only changes the transfer case between high and low range. It passes through but will not shift to neutral. The shift motor does not activate when the selector is turned from Auto to 4WDH or back, an internal clutch in the transfer case is engaged/disengaged.

 

well jacked up or not i kno its stuck in 4wd is there anyway i can disengage the clutch for good i dont need the 4wd its just cause problems and i dont have the time or money to fix it

i accually cleaned the rear speed sensor and it worked for around 125 miles and started engaging the 4wd again so this time i bought a new sensor and its still didnt work i tried changing the transfercase fluid and nothing

now if its in 4wl and im driving it have a hesitated hard shift in every gear and even when i just try taking off from a stop and this is all in sugar sand ditch

 

If you want to disengage the auto function, disconnect the "Brown" wire that enters the T/C. Power on this lead will activate the electromagnetic clutch to the front drive.

 

hey i also just bought a 97 ford explorer as my first car. and it has the same problem with going into 4x4. has anyone tried disconnecting the brown wire that goes into the transfer case? if so has there been sucess. Thanks

 

I'd just yank the T-case relay.

 

I contacted my Ford dealership and talked to the one of the mecanics, who said what to do was underneath the truck, under the drivers seat, there is a module. and its a square black plug. unplugging these wires will shut off the 4x4 all together, this has been working great for me, just unplugging it when the conditions are good, then plugging it back in when there is snow. Just have one question tho, will cutting the transfer case relay (brown wire) stop the truck from going into 4x4 automaticly? and then i can use 4x4 by turning the switch into 4x4 high or 4x4 low ?
or does that just disable the 4x4 all together?
thanks
ryan

 

If you disconnect the brown wire you will render the front shaft clutch inoperative, so 4H will be 2H, 4L will be 2L.

Some folk install a switch (in cab) in the Brown line, giving them the best of 2 worlds.

 

If the shift motor works off the truck but does not when installed, check for binding, loosen the mounting bolt and switch to auto/4L, if it works you will have to shim the motor from th T/C to relieve the pressure on the cam.

My 97 needed this proceedure....

 

I have a 1997 Control Trac 4.0L OHV with about 130,000 miles on it.

With the selector set on Auto (choices are Auto, 4H and 4L) 4WD is engaged
all the time. This is based upon the fact that it's clumping while turning,
even on hard dirt (almost new Michelin LTX tires). I did the 'ol clean the
transfer case sensors trick and it didn't help. I think the transfer case
clutch is engaged all the time but I cannot find a description of the TC
clutch either in my Hayne's manual, online, or in my Ford Service Manual on
CD. The Ford manual doesn't seem to have this particular problem listed
under their diagnostic procedures.

My understanding is that the front differential on the vehicle is a regular
"live"open differential and there are no locking hubs. Is this correct?
That might explain why one front wheel was spinning while attempting a
steep, muddy hill. This kinda stinks if this is the case. Maybe it's time
to trade it in on a first generation Explorer.

I removed the servo motor to get to one of the sensors and noticed that the
TC choices are H, L, and N. On the 91-94s the choices are 2H, 2L, and 4L.
I could not find a position where 4WD was not engaged.

The rear seal on the transfer case is leaking. The fluid looks rather dark.
Is it possible that the fluid was contanimated through a minor leak in the
seal? Could this be causing the sensors to not work at all? I changed the
TC fluid 25,000 miles ago or thereabouts. I suspect that new fluid would
probably become dirty soon so is there such a thing as flushing a transfer
case? Of course a new seal is imperative.

There is a minor to moderate whine from somewhere around the middle to the
front of the vehicle that is constant at a constant speed. It does not
change while accelerating/decelerating. There is a slight clunk when coming
to a stop, either in D or R. If it had radius arms I'd think it needed new
bushings. I've read a lot about replacing ball joints but don't recall the
symptoms. Is clunking a sign of bad ball joints, or perhaps bad CV joints?
Could worn wheel bearings somehow cause the Contro Trac to go wacky? Or is
this whine somehow related to the transfer case problem?

I disconnected the wiring going to the transfer case and 4WD is now
disengaged. Is there any problem with driving it with the TC wires
disconnected? I've read about the "brown wire" but that wouldn't really fix
the problem--it would just make it go away.

I'm going to try to get the codes read but this car is not here most of the
time (daughter's car) and unless she crawls underneath and reconnects the TC
wiring before getting them read I suspect the code info would be erroneous.

 

Yes, that is correct

That is because the front drive is connected VIA an electromagnetic clutch

Dirty fluid is sticky causing the clutch plates to stick (drag)

I have explained this in a previous entry

A regular scanner will not pick up any of the driveline codes (CEL), you would need a computer that has access to the extended diagnostic (PIDs)

 

Thanks aquanaut. I read your comment about the brown wire and I understand that's safe to disconnect but I have the whole wiring harness disconnected from the the TC so I was basically just asking if *that* was OK too because there is a lot that I don't know.

OK then, it looks like the procedure here is to replace the seal, replace the fluid, put a switch on the brown wire, and take it to Ford? I'm not sure if the Ford dealer is still there--been losing lots of car dealerships lately.

Is the front differential on the 91-94 Explorers an open differential too? I have NEVER had my front (or rear, for that matter) wheels spin seperately while in 4WD, at least not that I could tell. With the locking hubs it seems to be just about 100% reliable.

I also need to search changing the rear differential oil--Hayne's says it's "lifetime lubricated" but if it's not locking up as it should then maybe someone changed the oil and didn't add the friction modifier. Or maybe it got too wet but I'm pretty sure my daughter realizes the Explorer is not a boat.

 

mine seems to be stuck in 2wlow ive done the brown wire thing no help have pulled out all fuses pretaining to the 4 wheel drive that didnt help either, started over and noticed that there was no power at all on the brown wire and the fuse #28 had no power, anyone have any sugestions this is crazy

 

There is NO power on the Brown wire when the switch is in AUTO, unless the GEM/hall sensors detect a differential in rotation between the fron and back drive shafts.... Philip