Oil leak at dipstick tube flange fixed -with pics!
#1
Oil leak at dipstick tube flange fixed -with pics!
Hey guys,
I recently started leaking massive amounts of oil from the flange that holds the dipstick tube to the pan. As you may be aware, the flange is inserted from the inside along with the oring to seal it. I think it might be possible to replace that oring, but I went with the tried and true International repair kit.
Intl # 1846146C91 consists of:
Gasket
Oring (small one for the dipstick tube where it slides in the flange)
RTC
Loctite Flange Sealer
Instruction Sheet
Here's the gasket dimensionally if you need to make one in a pinch. 2 1/2" OD, 1 5/8" ID, and 0.031" thick.
Here is the RTV and Loctite flange sealer.
I started by disconnecting the batteries and removing the starter to gain access.
I then removed the bolt securing the dipstick tube at the top and un-hooked the wire harness and a couple of electrical connectors.
Next I cleaned up the flange and surrounding area.
The trickiest part of the whole operation is making sure that the flange does not fall into the pan while you take the retaining nut off and further clean and apply sealant. The directions called for a gallery brush (long straight round wire brush) but I didn't have one so I made a tool that worked sweet.
My custom tool was a piece of round plastic bar that was just under the size I needed it to be to wedge it in the hole that the dipstick tube sticks in. I ended up running a die over it to make some threads that increased the diameter of the plastic just enough to get a nice soft press fit.
I then drilled a hole and safety wired it to a carabiner so I could hook it to something and not have the flange fall into the abyss.
Here is the tool "installed."
Now comes the pucker factor 9.9 as you actually push the flange into the pan to remove the OEM oring with a pick like instrument.
Then I cleaned up both threads as best I could using brake cleaner, which by the way is a great way to get the clear coat off the pan... Then you use the RTV to seal two little slots on the pan and one "key" on the flange as you pull the flange back to it's seating position.
At that point I used the Loctite flange sealer to goop up the threads of both the flange and nut as well as both sides of the gasket. It is pretty messy sliding a gooped up gasket over the home-made tool but I got 'er done.
Now don't snicker too much on the sight of this ugly duckling, because the final words on the instructions were to use the RTV to COVER COMPLETELY the area around the slots and key. The key is there to properly position the flange so the dipstick tube is aligned.
Interestingly, due somewhat to the 105* temp outside, I could see massive outgassing from the RTV. Pretty cool to watch. Kind of like smoke pouring out of the entire surface area.
So far no leaks after 20 miles of driving!
Andy
I recently started leaking massive amounts of oil from the flange that holds the dipstick tube to the pan. As you may be aware, the flange is inserted from the inside along with the oring to seal it. I think it might be possible to replace that oring, but I went with the tried and true International repair kit.
Intl # 1846146C91 consists of:
Gasket
Oring (small one for the dipstick tube where it slides in the flange)
RTC
Loctite Flange Sealer
Instruction Sheet
Here's the gasket dimensionally if you need to make one in a pinch. 2 1/2" OD, 1 5/8" ID, and 0.031" thick.
Here is the RTV and Loctite flange sealer.
I started by disconnecting the batteries and removing the starter to gain access.
I then removed the bolt securing the dipstick tube at the top and un-hooked the wire harness and a couple of electrical connectors.
Next I cleaned up the flange and surrounding area.
The trickiest part of the whole operation is making sure that the flange does not fall into the pan while you take the retaining nut off and further clean and apply sealant. The directions called for a gallery brush (long straight round wire brush) but I didn't have one so I made a tool that worked sweet.
My custom tool was a piece of round plastic bar that was just under the size I needed it to be to wedge it in the hole that the dipstick tube sticks in. I ended up running a die over it to make some threads that increased the diameter of the plastic just enough to get a nice soft press fit.
I then drilled a hole and safety wired it to a carabiner so I could hook it to something and not have the flange fall into the abyss.
Here is the tool "installed."
Now comes the pucker factor 9.9 as you actually push the flange into the pan to remove the OEM oring with a pick like instrument.
Then I cleaned up both threads as best I could using brake cleaner, which by the way is a great way to get the clear coat off the pan... Then you use the RTV to seal two little slots on the pan and one "key" on the flange as you pull the flange back to it's seating position.
At that point I used the Loctite flange sealer to goop up the threads of both the flange and nut as well as both sides of the gasket. It is pretty messy sliding a gooped up gasket over the home-made tool but I got 'er done.
Now don't snicker too much on the sight of this ugly duckling, because the final words on the instructions were to use the RTV to COVER COMPLETELY the area around the slots and key. The key is there to properly position the flange so the dipstick tube is aligned.
Interestingly, due somewhat to the 105* temp outside, I could see massive outgassing from the RTV. Pretty cool to watch. Kind of like smoke pouring out of the entire surface area.
So far no leaks after 20 miles of driving!
Andy
#2
#5
DUDE THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I cant express this enough, I was scared to buy the repair kit since when i called IH they told me there was no such thing then the part number came up and they were like oil pan adapter or some crap!
Thank you dude REP points!
How much did u pay for this kit?
I cant express this enough, I was scared to buy the repair kit since when i called IH they told me there was no such thing then the part number came up and they were like oil pan adapter or some crap!
Thank you dude REP points!
How much did u pay for this kit?
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I did this repair except I replaced with the stock o ring that sits on the inside of the pan on the flange...Did it in 1 hour and it looks great(no leaks and none of that mess on the outside}If you need help pm me and I can tell you exactly how I did it without dropping flange into pan....3.27 for the o-ring from ford and 1 hour to do...
#15