Hi I thought I should pass this along. I have a 1993 F350 that had been giving me starting problems. When I first started looking at why it was having problems starting, I started at the Glow plugs. The engine turned over but was cranking over several times and puff out smoke before running. Also the clicking of the glow plug controller was rather fast. Turns out that the half the glow plugs were dead. So fine I go and replaced ALL of them. Started better than before and I thought that was it.
Since this truck sits a lot I thought it was normal cranking a few times before starting. But then she started getting diesel smelly in the cab. So a few months after the glow plug replacement I see leaking injector fuel returns. It had gotten so bad the the cavity that the glow plug resides was full of fuel. So I got a rebuild kit and replaced all the return caps and lines. (But tip here - Moly lube 44) That stuff is great! It's a O ring lube that swells the O ring during assembly and keeps it sealed. Had I used it the first attempt. You only need a 2oz at most.
OK back to truck. So the leak repaired the truck started fine but a few months later I kept getting that clicking from the controller again. So I found a glow plug and controller set on ebay and gave it shot. Well that made a big differance. It really gets the cylinders hot and starts at the first crank.

Now it's summer here in GA and heat is all over. So I take the truck out to several places and my last stop, the engine would't crank over. Everything looks right. The glow plugs won't come on since it hot, very hot. So for the first time I have it towed home. Replaced both batterys since it's been over 6 years on them. Then put a charger on the truck and the next morning starts like a dream. I let it sit for a day and take it out again. And again when it's hot it won't start. I could hear the upper solinoid click but nothing happened. And it was dark enough to check if there was a load. Turned on the head lights and hit the key. The head lights did NOT dim. So a second time to be towed home. AAA paid for it's self by now! After going over all electical areas, I find that the plastic cap on the starter's solinoid was cracked and melted. It seems that all the time of having glow plug issues and return line issues as taken it's toll on the starter. When the engine was cold the contacts were close enought to arc and start the truck. But when it was hot, everything expanded enough to keep the contacts from touching. I got a replacment starter from Ebay (I even got the truck from ebay). Took only and hour to swap out. And what a differance. Spins over and starts faster than I ever seen.

 

I am having the same problem, can you tell me how t oget to that top bolt that hold the starter in???

Thanks,

N

 

Use an extension or combination of them, that allows you to work the ratchet from in front of the starter. One hand for the ratchet one for locating the bolt head, some say it can be done through the wheel well........ OH! and leave a bottom bolt in or the starter may drop on you.....disconnect both batteries too.......major live power down there.

 

Help! I have a 1999 F250 that is having problems starting in cool to cold weather. New batteries, not the problem. Ford house checked glow system and all is ok (according to them). I have to crank several times to start if she starts. I do cycle glow plugs several times before trying to crank over. Finally I plug in the block heater and all is well after a short wait. My theory is that when the oil is cold and thick the old starter just does not having enough hump in it to do the job. Starter roars to duty and duys off rapidly. When plugged in for a while starts right up. What else could plugging the block heater in do to help the starting other than reduce the torque resistance by thinning the oil?

 

When i replaced my starter i went with the denso gear reduction unit instead mitsubish turns over a whole lot better. Got mine off ebay for $70.00 it was new.

 

-First off, you have a super duty, which is a powerstroke. This is the IDI section. You will not get the answers you're looking for here unless people recognize that, and ALWAYS start a new thread when you have trouble. Piggy-backing off other people's threads will most likely get you ignored because once a few people jump in to a thread to help the original poster, everyone else just leaves it alone.

-Second, you need to check your batteries, starter, and probably your injector o-rings.

-Third, "cycling" your glow plugs by turning the truck on and off a few times does absolutely nothing. The computer controls how long they stay on, which is about 2 minutes regardless of whether you start the engine or not. The "Wait to Start" light is an idiot light for people so they won't try and start the engine with cold glow plugs. So if you're having trouble, count to 20-30 after the WTS light goes off, and THEN crank it over. See what happens.

 

Injectors are gummed up with oil from not being changed enough.

 

One thing you might want to check is the glo plugs. Motorcraft/Beru only. Yes does make a differance.

 

Good morning, I have a 1993 F250 dually. Since I got the truck, I replaced the glow plugs, fixed the block heater and replaced the batteries and repaired a fuel line leak. I have been having starter issues. I am now on my third starter in because the lugs on the back of the starter keep burning out. Any suggestions on a better then advanced auto starter for my truck?

 

Start a new thread. You'll get more traffic and more help that way.