Went to put my door speakers into my 07 truck and found that Ford started using a wiring harness plug at the body of the truck. So, I am not sure where to put the crossover for my door spearkers. In my last to F250's, I put the crosover in the cab and ran the two pairs of wires through the rubber harness into the door. But on this 07, with the plug, I can't quickly run the wires out the body and into the doors.

Just wondering what others have done......so far, my only two ideas are to drill holes or use the factory wire and install the crossover inside the door panel (and do to space, it would be outside of the plastic vapor barrier).

 

Sorry I didn't reply sooner... just saw your post....

I just went thru this in order to install some door panel lights... Those are Molex plugs and difficult to work with... but it can be done... you can run wires thru the plug... see the article below..(thnx to black04lariat on this forum for pointing it out to me)

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay...~TID~78731~PN~1

 

Yep, just found the same thread today and this could have saved me a "drilled" hole in the door with flex conduit ran at the local BB store. Oh well...

 

Same thing here... I also drilled holes and used rubber grommets... I got the info too late as well... that's why I posted here, hopefully to save someone else before they start drilling....LOL
The worst part was taking both front doors completely off, so I could drill where I wanted to...
Now, I'm trying to figure out how to cause the least damage, and still bring in some coax cable from my CB antenna into the cab..

 

This is good news......although I can't seem to get the link to work.....any ideas?

I was thinking about drilling, but decided I couldn't locate a good place to drill into the cab.....there is a lot of stuff on the driver side. So...until now....my thoughts were to just tap into the existing wire in the cab, and install the crossovers inside the door (which isn't ideal.....but figured I could wrap them in plastic and rig something up for mounting them in there.

So just how difficult is it to add a wire or two to the harness?....maybe it will be more clear when I see the information in the link.

Thanks!!!

 

let's see if this is any better...
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?TID=78731&KW=molex+drill

Hey Pickupman2004... if it doesn't for some reason work (and the other one did initially, but I just tried it and you're right - it's not working)... so if this one goes in the ***tter too.... browse on over to the12volt dot com, get into their install bay (there's a hyperlink to it in the 2nd paragraph of the home page) and then do a search for "how to wire through a door molex"

I hope this link works for you tho' and definitely - even if it doesn't, have patience, find the info and do it properly..
Let me know if you can't find it..

 

This comes courtesy of the original poster - Rob@Forbidden Audio Ltd. CFB Comox, BC Canada
NOTE TO MODS - IF THIS RE-POST IS A NO-NO, PLEASE DO WHAT YOU MUST TO DELETE, OR WHATEVER... just trying to help out fellow forum members....

This tutorial is to aid you when you are faced with the dreaded door molex and how to get your speaker wires past it. This install was done on a 2006 Mazda 3. This is becoming more and more common these days so expect to see it in your new car, be it a Mazda or a Jeep.

Here is a great picture of what not to do. I should point out that this method is done frequently by installers who are lazy, or for customers that do not want to pay to have the job done properly. Notice as well the rust starting below where he drilled. This is from the installer not cleaning up his metal shards after drilling. I should also point out, that this customer, a friend of mine in a different city, went for the "deal" and not the quality. He was also told by four local shops, 2 big box and two specialty shops that this is also the only way that they will do this work. Here is the list of excuses he was given.

(1) It voids warranty.

(2) The wire does not fit.

(3) The wire will get cut when the door opens and closes.

(4) The wire will chaff in the molex.

(5) The electrical switches will no longer work.



Here is a picture of the suspected offender. Putting your fingers onto the boot where it makes contact with the door, you should be able to feel the plastic molex housing underneath.



The first thing to do is to peel back the protective rubber boot to expose the molex and to see how it is locked into the door. Use a pick tool or a small common screwdriver to help you here if you cannot get your fingers in the area. If you are going to be putting your fingers into this area, take great care not to move the door as when it swings it might try and cut your fingers off as it swings past.

 

Next is the picture of the molex a little closer. If you look closely at the plug, you will see the press down lock tabs in the four corners. Use a pick tool and push the tab down while you pry that corner. Next push the other matching top (or bottom) tab down. Either the top or the bottom of them molex should now be free from the door. Now do the other 2 tabs to release the entire molex and pull it out of the mounting hole. Expect it to be fairly deep so be carefull as to how you pull it out. The metal in the door jamb is sharp, so be carefull not to chaff the factory wires on it!







Now for the first look at what you can do. If you notice in the last picture all the unused holes (holes with no wires going into the molex). That is where we shall be running our new wires. You need to look at both the front and the backside of the molex as there very well may be factory wires in the back molex that do not come through on the front side (depending on options in your vehicle).



The above picture is the back half of the molex after it has been unsnapped from the front.



The above picture is the front half of the offensive foul beast that we are soon to torture. The next picture below in this case is where the new wires must enter the boot from on the drivers door.

 

The second picture above is the boot removed from the protective plastic shroud that the factory wires are in. As I am installing components in this car, I have two runs of 18 gauge speaker wire to pass through to the vehicle. The next picture below shows an alternative method (vehicle dependent) of passing a wire through a molex. If the molex has side holes as this one does, then it is a easy method to pass the wires through. It does not require drilling of either front or back molex to pass through. In this vehicle, I chose not to do this method.





Now onto the business end. There are two ways to drill a molex. One way is to separate the two molex's and drill each indipendent. I generally choose a drill bit that is just under the size of the hole that is there for a factory wire to pass into. As there is no factory wire in the way, it is easy to check. The drill bit size also needs to be just larger than the size of the wire you are trying to pass through. This next picture shows me drilling the front molex from the backside (doorside). The other way to drill the molex is to snap it back together into one large molex and drill from the front to the back. This is my preferred method however, you must be carefull when the drill bit approaches the backside that it does not bind on any factory wires.



The next picture shows a before and after shot of the rear molex.





Next you need to split your speaker wire down the center. Pass the wire through the front molex as you see in the next picture.



Now pass the wire through the rear molex as well. Slowly push the molex's together while you pull the extra speaker wire out.





Now you should be able to reconnect your molex together, wires ran through it and put the molex back into it's deep dark hole from whenst it came. Take care to secure your speaker wires on both sides of the molex so that the wire cannot move around.



Now you have a new set of speaker wires ran through a molex, properly and with a guage of wire adequate to carry all of that power that new amp of yours is set to give you.

 

Ok, so I finally got around to taking a closer look at the door "plug." While I got the plastic piece on the door side off and taken apart, I was unable to figure out how to do the same on the cab side. I can see where to drill the holes on the door side of the plug, but if I can't get to the cab side, then I don't know how do I would drill into that.

If you guys have any additional information, let me know. Otherwise, I think I am going to just tap into the factory wire and end up putting the crossover in the door (and in a plastic bag and somehow secured to something in there).

Looking forward to a quick response. Thanks!!!

 

I found all this out too late to go the molex route... I took both front doors off so that I could drill my hole where I wanted it. But with the front doors off, I'm sure you could drill out the hole you wanted in the plug.
I think if you took the doors off and MAKE SURE that the cab side molex hole you want to use is empty. (there is a possibility that even tho' the door side plug doesn't hold a wire, that the cab side WILL. they apparently wire the cab side for all options, some of which the truck doesn't have, so the wire stops at the molex plug inside the cab.) ... then you feed the length of speaker wire from the outside thru the hole and reach up and under the dash... you could do what you're aiming for..
Hope this helps..

And don't be afraid of taking the doors off... other being a little heavy for one person (Hint - put the windows down before you take the door off, so you can grab it better), it wasn't a big job at all.. and no hinge alignment issues.


Good luck

 

i'm about to add componants to my 04. is it the same procedure the same? God I hope not! and by the way WTF is ford thinking?

 

I just installed a set of 6810CS speakers in my '07 SD. I just put the crossovers in the door(s). Time will tell how they stand up.

From a longevity standpoint, the Molex connectors do make sense. The wires won't be flexing against the sheetmetal (even through a grommet) and weaken or break in 6-7 years.

(I don't suppose anyone has a suggestion for a good 4- or 5-channel amp?)

-blaine

 

That and it makes the door really easy to remove. We need to remember not very many people bother to amp their door speakers, so this change only affects a very small minority of people.

 

Once I go that route, I'm going to try to figure out how to run the amp wiring from the master disconnect up by the radio instead of trying to run it elsewhere. It'll make for some longer wiring runs, but it'll be much cleaner.

-blaine