2003 Explorer Code P0775
#1
04-19-2007, 07:31 PM
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2003 Explorer Code P0775
I've got a 2003 Ford Explorer The transmission O/D light is flashing, and the check engine light came on. I'm getting and Code of P0775 Pres. Ctrl Solenoid B Circuit Malfunction. Also it shifts rough between gears, the rpms ramp up to much before it shifts.
Anyone have any idea what the problem is, and how to fix it?
Thanks
Anyone have any idea what the problem is, and how to fix it?
Thanks
#2
04-19-2007, 07:41 PM
Cargo Master
This is shift flare, the fix is a valve and gasket kit in the tranny.
You might want to start by reading,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...dy_Gasket.html
You might want to start by reading,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...dy_Gasket.html
Last edited by aquanaut20; 04-19-2007 at 07:44 PM.
#4
01-16-2010, 09:17 PM
#6
04-17-2010, 01:51 PM
My wife's 2002 Explorer started having the same problem on April 15th with high revs (3,000-4,000 rpm before shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, a flashing O/D OFF light, and a steady SERVICE ENGING SOON light with codes P0775 and P0000. I'm really hoping you're wrong about having to lift and overhaul the trans.
#7
12-02-2010, 02:38 AM
What I used to fill my tranny was a pump up sprayer. Measured the old fluid I removed, than add alittle extra new fluid into the sprayer. Pumped it up it fit perfect into the center hole of the drain plug. Pulled the trigger and shot it in. Installed the center plug, warmed up the engine, shifted through the gears and checked the fluid level. If it ran out heavy, I let it flow down to a narrow stream. Or if none ran out I serviced it with more fluid. Installed the plug and good to go.
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#8
12-02-2010, 08:27 AM
I just went through this on my 2002 Explorer. If you are getting the shift flare going from 1 to 2 (has to get to 3K+ rpm to shift and/or you need to let off the gas a little to get it to shift) then the problem is the OD servo, if the shift flare is at other gears its the IM servo.
My Explorer has the 5R55W tranny in it, and I am pretty sure you have the same or at least a version of the 5R55.
I think someone mentioned already that you need to have sleeves inserted into the servo bores in a previous post. This is one way to address this issue, and really is the most common approach. It will require you to drop the tranny out to do it, so if you are doing that then you might as well replace all the wear parts while it is out, basically think of it as a total overhaul. If you are wondering why you need to insert these sleeves the reason is the servo piston is hardened steel and the bore it slides in is aluminum, the steel wears on the aluminum. In my research I found that the mileage before this happens varies, some folks say they get it at 70K miles or less, I went 147K miles before it happened to me.
Now there is another option for you, which will not require you to drop the tranny, and it is the approach I chose to take. There is a guy who has come up with a fix for this issue (patent pending). Basically he takes the Ford OEM servos and cuts grooves on both sides of the fluid transfer area and inserts viton o-rings into the grooves. You can install the servos while the tranny is still on the truck (you will need to move some exhaust components out of the way), you don't even have to drop the pan or drain the fluid. He sells them on ebay (do a search for 5R55W servo and you will find it) He will verify your tranny based on VIN and send you both the IM and OD servos as well as detailed step by step instructions. It will cost you about $200 for the parts, way cheaper than a rebuild. And he ships fast, I ordered mine on a tuesday and had them on that friday, and in the truck that saturday. My truck shifts smooth as silk now. (after putting these in you will need to do a band adjustment, another easy job to do, look it up on this sight and some guy has detailed instructions with pictures)
Now you also asked about the tranny fluid (how to get it back in / check it), its considered a sealed system, hence no dipstick. The drain plug has a smaller plug in the middle of it that a torx bit fits, the smaller plug is what you remove to "check" fluid level or the fluid itself. If you remove that smaller plug and nothing comes out, you are low on fluid, a small stream should drop out if it full of fluid. Now the tricky part is getting fluid back in. What I did was I went down to the hardware store and got a plastic quick disconnect fitting (used usually for connecting water lines to ice makers and such) that fit the size of the smaller plug mentioned above (I think if memory serves it was a 1/8" fitting) then I connected a plastic tube (same isle as the fitting in the hardware store) to a hand pump (they sell one for about $8 at the automotive store, purpose built to fit to the top of a quart or gallon size oil container) and pumped it back up into the tranny.
Now I mentioned above that you don't need to drain fluid to do the servo fix, so in case you are wondering why I was pumping fluid back into my tranny, well I thought when I got the PO775 code I needed to replace the solenoid block which I did which requires you to drop the pan, which did not solve my PO775 code issue, the servo fix above did though.
Hope that helps
My Explorer has the 5R55W tranny in it, and I am pretty sure you have the same or at least a version of the 5R55.
I think someone mentioned already that you need to have sleeves inserted into the servo bores in a previous post. This is one way to address this issue, and really is the most common approach. It will require you to drop the tranny out to do it, so if you are doing that then you might as well replace all the wear parts while it is out, basically think of it as a total overhaul. If you are wondering why you need to insert these sleeves the reason is the servo piston is hardened steel and the bore it slides in is aluminum, the steel wears on the aluminum. In my research I found that the mileage before this happens varies, some folks say they get it at 70K miles or less, I went 147K miles before it happened to me.
Now there is another option for you, which will not require you to drop the tranny, and it is the approach I chose to take. There is a guy who has come up with a fix for this issue (patent pending). Basically he takes the Ford OEM servos and cuts grooves on both sides of the fluid transfer area and inserts viton o-rings into the grooves. You can install the servos while the tranny is still on the truck (you will need to move some exhaust components out of the way), you don't even have to drop the pan or drain the fluid. He sells them on ebay (do a search for 5R55W servo and you will find it) He will verify your tranny based on VIN and send you both the IM and OD servos as well as detailed step by step instructions. It will cost you about $200 for the parts, way cheaper than a rebuild. And he ships fast, I ordered mine on a tuesday and had them on that friday, and in the truck that saturday. My truck shifts smooth as silk now. (after putting these in you will need to do a band adjustment, another easy job to do, look it up on this sight and some guy has detailed instructions with pictures)
Now you also asked about the tranny fluid (how to get it back in / check it), its considered a sealed system, hence no dipstick. The drain plug has a smaller plug in the middle of it that a torx bit fits, the smaller plug is what you remove to "check" fluid level or the fluid itself. If you remove that smaller plug and nothing comes out, you are low on fluid, a small stream should drop out if it full of fluid. Now the tricky part is getting fluid back in. What I did was I went down to the hardware store and got a plastic quick disconnect fitting (used usually for connecting water lines to ice makers and such) that fit the size of the smaller plug mentioned above (I think if memory serves it was a 1/8" fitting) then I connected a plastic tube (same isle as the fitting in the hardware store) to a hand pump (they sell one for about $8 at the automotive store, purpose built to fit to the top of a quart or gallon size oil container) and pumped it back up into the tranny.
Now I mentioned above that you don't need to drain fluid to do the servo fix, so in case you are wondering why I was pumping fluid back into my tranny, well I thought when I got the PO775 code I needed to replace the solenoid block which I did which requires you to drop the pan, which did not solve my PO775 code issue, the servo fix above did though.
Hope that helps
#11
09-27-2011, 10:35 AM
O/D Off Light Flashing, Service Engine light on, eratic shifting
MuddyG - That's the best, most detailed and easily understood explanation I've read about this issue. I have an 04 Explorer with 147k miles that this just starting happening on. I'm mechanically inclined, but have never done this type of work on my SUV. Is it doable lying on my back with the SUV on jackstands? I don't have access to a lift. Will I need a torque wrench or other "special" tools?
I just went through this on my 2002 Explorer. If you are getting the shift flare going from 1 to 2 (has to get to 3K+ rpm to shift and/or you need to let off the gas a little to get it to shift) then the problem is the OD servo, if the shift flare is at other gears its the IM servo.
My Explorer has the 5R55W tranny in it, and I am pretty sure you have the same or at least a version of the 5R55.
I think someone mentioned already that you need to have sleeves inserted into the servo bores in a previous post. This is one way to address this issue, and really is the most common approach. It will require you to drop the tranny out to do it, so if you are doing that then you might as well replace all the wear parts while it is out, basically think of it as a total overhaul. If you are wondering why you need to insert these sleeves the reason is the servo piston is hardened steel and the bore it slides in is aluminum, the steel wears on the aluminum. In my research I found that the mileage before this happens varies, some folks say they get it at 70K miles or less, I went 147K miles before it happened to me.
Now there is another option for you, which will not require you to drop the tranny, and it is the approach I chose to take. There is a guy who has come up with a fix for this issue (patent pending). Basically he takes the Ford OEM servos and cuts grooves on both sides of the fluid transfer area and inserts viton o-rings into the grooves. You can install the servos while the tranny is still on the truck (you will need to move some exhaust components out of the way), you don't even have to drop the pan or drain the fluid. He sells them on ebay (do a search for 5R55W servo and you will find it) He will verify your tranny based on VIN and send you both the IM and OD servos as well as detailed step by step instructions. It will cost you about $200 for the parts, way cheaper than a rebuild. And he ships fast, I ordered mine on a tuesday and had them on that friday, and in the truck that saturday. My truck shifts smooth as silk now. (after putting these in you will need to do a band adjustment, another easy job to do, look it up on this sight and some guy has detailed instructions with pictures)
Now you also asked about the tranny fluid (how to get it back in / check it), its considered a sealed system, hence no dipstick. The drain plug has a smaller plug in the middle of it that a torx bit fits, the smaller plug is what you remove to "check" fluid level or the fluid itself. If you remove that smaller plug and nothing comes out, you are low on fluid, a small stream should drop out if it full of fluid. Now the tricky part is getting fluid back in. What I did was I went down to the hardware store and got a plastic quick disconnect fitting (used usually for connecting water lines to ice makers and such) that fit the size of the smaller plug mentioned above (I think if memory serves it was a 1/8" fitting) then I connected a plastic tube (same isle as the fitting in the hardware store) to a hand pump (they sell one for about $8 at the automotive store, purpose built to fit to the top of a quart or gallon size oil container) and pumped it back up into the tranny.
Now I mentioned above that you don't need to drain fluid to do the servo fix, so in case you are wondering why I was pumping fluid back into my tranny, well I thought when I got the PO775 code I needed to replace the solenoid block which I did which requires you to drop the pan, which did not solve my PO775 code issue, the servo fix above did though.
Hope that helps
My Explorer has the 5R55W tranny in it, and I am pretty sure you have the same or at least a version of the 5R55.
I think someone mentioned already that you need to have sleeves inserted into the servo bores in a previous post. This is one way to address this issue, and really is the most common approach. It will require you to drop the tranny out to do it, so if you are doing that then you might as well replace all the wear parts while it is out, basically think of it as a total overhaul. If you are wondering why you need to insert these sleeves the reason is the servo piston is hardened steel and the bore it slides in is aluminum, the steel wears on the aluminum. In my research I found that the mileage before this happens varies, some folks say they get it at 70K miles or less, I went 147K miles before it happened to me.
Now there is another option for you, which will not require you to drop the tranny, and it is the approach I chose to take. There is a guy who has come up with a fix for this issue (patent pending). Basically he takes the Ford OEM servos and cuts grooves on both sides of the fluid transfer area and inserts viton o-rings into the grooves. You can install the servos while the tranny is still on the truck (you will need to move some exhaust components out of the way), you don't even have to drop the pan or drain the fluid. He sells them on ebay (do a search for 5R55W servo and you will find it) He will verify your tranny based on VIN and send you both the IM and OD servos as well as detailed step by step instructions. It will cost you about $200 for the parts, way cheaper than a rebuild. And he ships fast, I ordered mine on a tuesday and had them on that friday, and in the truck that saturday. My truck shifts smooth as silk now. (after putting these in you will need to do a band adjustment, another easy job to do, look it up on this sight and some guy has detailed instructions with pictures)
Now you also asked about the tranny fluid (how to get it back in / check it), its considered a sealed system, hence no dipstick. The drain plug has a smaller plug in the middle of it that a torx bit fits, the smaller plug is what you remove to "check" fluid level or the fluid itself. If you remove that smaller plug and nothing comes out, you are low on fluid, a small stream should drop out if it full of fluid. Now the tricky part is getting fluid back in. What I did was I went down to the hardware store and got a plastic quick disconnect fitting (used usually for connecting water lines to ice makers and such) that fit the size of the smaller plug mentioned above (I think if memory serves it was a 1/8" fitting) then I connected a plastic tube (same isle as the fitting in the hardware store) to a hand pump (they sell one for about $8 at the automotive store, purpose built to fit to the top of a quart or gallon size oil container) and pumped it back up into the tranny.
Now I mentioned above that you don't need to drain fluid to do the servo fix, so in case you are wondering why I was pumping fluid back into my tranny, well I thought when I got the PO775 code I needed to replace the solenoid block which I did which requires you to drop the pan, which did not solve my PO775 code issue, the servo fix above did though.
Hope that helps
#12
03-16-2012, 09:11 PM
2003 Ford Explorer get code Po775?
MuddyG,
I'm having the problem you described. I went out on Ebay and did a search on 5R55W Servo and found lots of rebuild kits. I wasn't able to determine which one I need to order for the PO775 OEM fix. Can you tell me which kit I need to order? Also can this repair be done with the SUV up on jack stands?
Thanks,
Samuel
I'm having the problem you described. I went out on Ebay and did a search on 5R55W Servo and found lots of rebuild kits. I wasn't able to determine which one I need to order for the PO775 OEM fix. Can you tell me which kit I need to order? Also can this repair be done with the SUV up on jack stands?
Thanks,
Samuel
#13
02-02-2013, 06:19 PM
#14
12-16-2015, 04:50 PM
The Fix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuBu...ature=youtu.be.
I produced this video to help the thousands of consumers affected by this relatively innocent P0775 code that ends up being a nightmare when trying to get the vehicle to pass State Inspection. This video shows you exactly how.
God Bless!
I produced this video to help the thousands of consumers affected by this relatively innocent P0775 code that ends up being a nightmare when trying to get the vehicle to pass State Inspection. This video shows you exactly how.
God Bless!
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