i hav ean 86 rnger and an 89 ranger the 86 has a 2.3 with only 4 spark plugs the 89 has 2.3 with the eight spark plugs aside from the computer do i need to change out the wiring harness or was ford anticipating this kind of swap please i really need help here

 

Kind of hoping there would have been answers by now. I am thinking of doing the same thing using a '93 motor for my '87.

 

You will need the harness. The 89 has a crank position sensor, ignition modules, etc. Are you using the complete 89 engine, or mixing/matching? jd

 

really i would go for the four plug head much better in reliability ,you can put the ranger cam in it,,heard the 4 plug also outflows the 8 plug because room was lost for flow by adding the extraplugs,,,Dis ignition sucks,unreliable,distributor is the way to go for me

 

The head is a bolt on, either head will fit either block. The question is which way are you going with this? Are you trying to put the 8 plug head in your '86, or trying to use the '86 block in your '89 by installing the 8 plug head? You'll get a more precise answer if you are more specific, at least make your intentions known.

 

I am in need of some technical assistance. I got a 2.3 EFI in a 90 Mustang (No MAF sensor) and the car has been running like it is possessed. When I bought it off the kid, he stated that he did some "work to the Cam" - no other details. I thought nothing of it. But the Car will enjoy running at 2000 rpm at start and slowing will work itself down. But if it hits 1300/1200 it starts to choke and will die once it hits 800. Other signs of trouble - BIG Black spot on the ground after each startup. I have almost change every sensor. Some of the back yard mechanics stated the NOn MAF sensor vehicles are not as easy to beef up as a MAF Sensor engine. No Engine light, no found vacuum leaks (yet).
I have gotten it past the stalling by revving the engine. Got it on the road and it ran at 18-2100 rpm at 50-55 so I was pleasantly surprised. BUT, at a light, I being unsure of the car had two feet on the brake - luckily - the car started to idle down fron 1100 to 800 - not trying to die - then out of no where - the car jumped to 1500 rpm!! If I was not holding the brake firmly, I would have been in the intersection with traffic. Needless to say I drove it home.
I got a FREE working 92 2.3L MAF engine from a guy changing to a 5.0 (no MAF , no wiring, but a Computer yes). It is the 8 spark plug system so it is different from what I have.

First any thoughts on the first engine?
Second, if the young lad install a CAM wrong, how will I know and what can I do.
Next, besides getting the wiring harness from a 92 and the MAF - can I use the Cam from the 92 on the 90 to improve my situation? Can I "deaden" the four exhaust burning plugs?
I just want to drive this convertible (yeah -I'm a big kid) year round with the top down - because I can!
Thanks for the help.

Sadsack56
66 Mustang Coupe Auto 289 2B
90 Mustang LX 2.3 Auto Convertible
99 Ranger XLT 3.0 Flex Fuel Auto 2WD

 

The erratic idle is indicative of a bad throttle position sensor. That would be my second place to check after timing.
It would be difficult to physically install the cam wrong, but the timing could be off. Check the cam timing.
The cam will interchange. There are no "exhaust burning plugs" in these engines. You can kill the plugs on one side of the head, but it will be detrimental.


Sadsack56
66 Mustang Coupe Auto 289 2B
90 Mustang LX 2.3 Auto Convertible
99 Ranger XLT 3.0 Flex Fuel Auto 2WD[/QUOTE]

 

Does the IAC work? Is the throttle hard-stop set too high?
The black spot indicates the fuel pressure regulator may have gone on vacation. Check the pressure as it may be the reason the engine wants to choke- too much juice.
tom

 

Thank you! I have been on travel for my work and unable to tap into my email. Tomorrow I will be able to respond to each of the recommendations!!

Thanks again.

 

1. IAC - Not familiar with the term - please decipher for me.
2. Throttle Position Sensor - was realigned to stay at the prescribed voltage of the manual of 4.5 to 4.9 volts.
3. Throttle stop - set at the almost lowest possible for voltage level prescribed.
4. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced initially and gave the same results. Maybe I was lucky to get a bad one?
5. Cam timing - The marks line up and it appears that the number 1 cylinder head is up also.
6. The exhaust burning plug comment - My 84 Nissan had 8 plugs and 4 of them did a secondary burn. No need for a Smog pump. Smart Japanese engineering.


I try to drive the car and now it is under powered. Bogging down and after a few miles, she gives up. She will re-start and I need to force her home.

I am hoping to be able to work on it this week and analyze the issues further. I may get to the point of going to a local junkyard (Mike's Mustangs in Bryans Road, MD) and get all of the wiring from a 92 and change out engines. It could be alot of hard work for some 29 cent part!!

Also I plan to try to read the pressure on the rail also before I change out the engine. Just need to get a gauge and hose to connect to the value.

Thanks for help and any other future assistance. I definately want this pony to live once again on the highways!

Sadsack56
66 Mustang Coupe Auto 289 2B
90 Mustang LX 2.3 Auto Convertible
99 Ranger XLT 3.0 Flex Fuel Auto 2WD

 

IAC == Idle Air Control. Controls idle speed.
To rev up that much, there has to be something opening the throttle plate. The IAC can't provide enough to take it much beyond 1500, especially with an auto trans. If you have a manual, it can take it higher, I'd say, as my wifes 3.8 Bird will sometimes keep the idle up above 1000 rpms. No engine braking a lot of the time.
Find out who made the cam, and what it was designed to do. If it were a racing cam, it could have a terrible idle, but scream at higher rpms. There may be a way to adjust it for a lower rpm range of ops.
I am confused about which engine is which, and what you plan to do with them...

tom

 

TOMW,
Thanks for the quick response. I do not believe this 1990 2.3L EFI engine has a IAC. There is no MAF on my car. But the California 2.3L cars had MAFs (at least the 1990 Car Shop Manual states this). It does have an automatic. At Park the engine has no problem in getting to 4500 rpm and staying there for a while then it decides to slow down.
Now that we got the car to idle a few minutes longer on her own with the TPS recalibrated, my son and I are noticing a possible miss. A metering of the wires and is in order with the associated culprits.
The 2.3L EFI and auto trans from the 92 LX was a freebee. Just could not pass up free parts... But the 92 will need a MAF and the associated wiring. I was also given the matching computer for the 92. (yea, I'm a collector/pack rat)
Between the expected Thunderstorms this week in Southern Maryland, I hope to re-re-re-check the vacuum lines and gaskets for any leaks and attempt to check the fuel pressure.

Thanks for the IAC clarification....

 

MAF== Mass Air FLow sensor... how much air is coming in (theoretically, as you can have a leak somewhere else, such as PCV, Vacuum hose, bad gaskets...
MAP== Manifold Absolute PRessure vacuum (load) in intake. Relative to barometric pressure. Allows adjusting fuel spritz based on full throttle, idling, part load using table lookup, not the actual air flow. If you have a leak, the MAP will know, and will add more fuel as the 'load' is 'high' with low vacuum readings (floored...)
I have MAP in a Calif emissions '85. The 90 models I *thought* had MAFS across the board, but what do I know. A 4.0 Aero* had a MAF...
I would have said they all have an IAC if they have EEC - Electronic Engine Control. Old Rangers had them over by the air cleaner box and used a (siamesed to the Air CLeaner feed) rubberized tube to feed the intake BEHIND the throttle plate. Later models put the IAC right on the throttle body.
Most Ford IAC look like a cylinder about 1.25" in diameter by about 3" in length, and are held to the throttle body by two bolts.
As they say, your mileage may vary...
tom

 

No MAF appears to have ever been on this car - no wiring or signs of wiring where the MAF would go.
The MAP is new.
What your describing (I believe) as the IAC is called the Air Bypass Valve by this manual. It too has been changed.

Maybe it is time to pull the 351W 2BL from the 84 F150 and install that into the 90 Mustang. EFI may be better, but one can't beat the ol' carb (sometimes).