Did anyone ever come up with the standard wire colors for RV applications (I think there is at least one other "standard" color scheme for other types of trailers)?

EDIT:

Found this in another post:

http://www.marksrv.com/wiring.htm

 

That link is outdated, and does not follow RVIA standards.

Here are the standard wiring color sequence:

Yellow = Left turn
Green = Right turn
Brown = Tail/Marker
Blue = Trailer Brakes
Black = +12 volt source (ie breakaway battery charge)
Orange = Backup/Auxillary
White = Ground

www.etrailer.com/faq/wiring.aspx

Just understand that until recently vehicle manufactures were lax at following the wire color standards and some trailer manufactures make things up as they go. If in doubt always test each wire/pin function with a meter to be sure.

Hope this helps

 

That's what I mean about there being more than one standard. The plug I bought had yellow as the center aux color. I have no idea how to wire it now without having the trailer and I can't go get the trailer without having the truck wired. Son of a...

 

You got one of those non-conforming pieces of c*** still on the shelves, some wiring manufactures still insist on doing their own thing to make everyones life difficult.

Here is a link to the plug you bought and how to identify the wires to the RVIA specs.
www.etrailer.com/pc-TEC~H20042.htm

Hope this helps

 

This link is correct however future readers might keep in mind that the slot on the bottom is an indexing groove for the guts of the receptacle, not the same as the one for the groove on the trailer plug (that will go towards the top of this diagram). Also note that the view is from the front of the truck looking aft at the wire side of the receptacle. Curb side is to the left of the diagram, driver side to the right.

 

I just got my '69 Prowler re-wired and my '99 F-150 wired for the 7 pin plug and P-3 brake controller. the best advice I can give anyone is to be color blind and use a ohm meter. worked for me.

 

I just got my '69 Prowler re-wired and my '99 F-150 wired for the 7 pin plug and P-3 brake controller. the best advice I can give anyone is to be color blind and use a ohm meter. worked for me.

 

I sure wish I had seen this thread when I hooked up my 24ft aerolite to my new (to me) '97 F250 LD the day we were going on vacation.
The guy I bought it from said he towed his trailer with it until he got a new F350.
I had put a 7 wire RV recepticle on my '88 and the wires on the '97 didn't match as well as the 12v power wire wasn't run at all.
I ended up taking the '88's wiring and recepticle off and rewiring the '97. AARRRGH!!!
I am continuously amazed by the poor workmanship of others when it come to installing things.

 

yep! makes you wonder how their things even worked.

 

REPAIR MODE:
ACTIVATED....



Looking to the rear for the trailer plug ~ the pins are reversed - and the simple way to keep it straight is to think in terms of "PASSENGER SIDE" and DRIVER SIDE"

The passenger is like a bad SPOUSE:
POWER
TO
BREAK
(you)

(12 volt power, Turn and brake light-right side, BRAKE SIGNAL to electric brakes)

The driver side is like someone pursued in a divorce:
RUNNING
TO
GROUND

(Running lights, Turn and brake lights-left, and COMMON GROUND)

It sounds stupid, but if you remember it that way you will never forget it. With no apologies for not being politically correct, it works and that is what is required....

~GREYWOLF
RV Support Critter

 

Looking for an opinion. I have a 06 F350 with the Ford trailer brake control. I need a constant power sorce at the rear of the truck for a rear view camera and I was thinking about tapping the black wire at the back of the 7 way plug. I'm trying to think of any reason this should not be done? For example will having the camera turned on cause the brake controller to think a trailer is connected?
thanks for the help

 

What you want is a source of 12 volt DC power that comes on when the ignition key is in run - for this purpose the 12 volt power line (battery charging) line is ideal.

It will power the camera system, but be shut down when the ignition key is off.

Since no batteries are involved it doesn't matter if the camera has power or not.

Also because you won't use it if you are not planning to move it with the engine on - it makes no difference.

So the connection at 1 O'Clock as you look forward is ideal. The only issue is the fuse, and normally it is 20 amperes, more than enough.

Another point though is that it will draw from the trailer batteries - so a shut off would be needed to stop it from draining the trailer batteries. You can use a toggle switch, or a shut off switch for the trailer batteries (also reccomended).

A camera cut out switch is needed no matter what if the camera is in the trailer.


~Wolf


*I would also recommend a blinking red LED in the entry to let you know the camera has power on it.
Not hard to wire if you know where to lay hands on a 12 volt blinking red LED in the first place.

 

I got '10 f15o with tow package. If i wanted to charge my spare rv battery in the bed while driving around using a 7 pin cable to gator clips on the battery. What pins on the plug would i need to use and where do they go ( positive or negative on battery)

 

Check the pin diagram in one of the preceding posts. Should be black for + and white for -, but when I work on wiring my multimeter is God! Work around this stuff long enough and you will see every possible variation in terms of color and placement.

Steve

 

Standard 7 way wiring color codes:

Black = 12v +
White = Ground
Blue = Electric Brakes
Yellow = Back Up Lights or Aux
Green = Tail Lights
Red = Left Turn/Stop
Brown = Right Turn/Stop

Standard 4 way color codes:

White = Ground
Brown = Tail Lights
Green = Right Turn/Stop
Yellow = Left Turn Stop