Ignition coil ballast resistor location????
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Originally Posted by 90F250351
how do i know which ignition system i have? duraspark II or III? do i have a c.p. sensor? also "numberdummy/mil1ion" the resistor wire comes from the ignition switch on the column to the coil?
Last edited by 82F1507.5; 02-15-2007 at 11:19 AM.
#13
Join Date: Jul 2004
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According to the digrams...
Circut 16: Red/Green Stripe wire hot in run only from the ignition switch, goes to splice-401, where three wires and the resistor split off. The resistor and two of the wires will be Red/Green Stripe, the other will be Light Green/Red stripe.
The resistor wire will be marked, do not cut or splice.
The other end of the resistor is at splice-216 there will be two wires, one Red/Green wire that goes to the coil, and the other is Brown/Pink, which is the start bypass that bypasses the resistor in start only.
The splices should be obvious, they are usually big black or gray rubber colored that resembles a barrel. Should find it under the dash.
You can test the resistor with a multimeter set to ohms. The resistor should resist voltage 1.05 to 1.15 ohms. If it is more than that or not at all, replace the wire etc...
Yes the resistor being bad can cause a no spark condition. But only when the truck ignition is in the run position. If the resistor was the only culprit of no spark, the truck should start up and then die.
This is because of the resistor bypass when the coil gets its full 12 volts from the ignition switch in the start position. In the run position the coil only gets around 7 volts.
Hope this helps...
Circut 16: Red/Green Stripe wire hot in run only from the ignition switch, goes to splice-401, where three wires and the resistor split off. The resistor and two of the wires will be Red/Green Stripe, the other will be Light Green/Red stripe.
The resistor wire will be marked, do not cut or splice.
The other end of the resistor is at splice-216 there will be two wires, one Red/Green wire that goes to the coil, and the other is Brown/Pink, which is the start bypass that bypasses the resistor in start only.
The splices should be obvious, they are usually big black or gray rubber colored that resembles a barrel. Should find it under the dash.
You can test the resistor with a multimeter set to ohms. The resistor should resist voltage 1.05 to 1.15 ohms. If it is more than that or not at all, replace the wire etc...
Yes the resistor being bad can cause a no spark condition. But only when the truck ignition is in the run position. If the resistor was the only culprit of no spark, the truck should start up and then die.
This is because of the resistor bypass when the coil gets its full 12 volts from the ignition switch in the start position. In the run position the coil only gets around 7 volts.
Hope this helps...
#15
Join Date: Jul 2004
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Originally Posted by 90F250351
how do i know which ignition system i have? duraspark II or III?
Duraspark II distributors will have a "cog wheel" inside with 8 teeth. And you will see the magnetic pickup assymbly, will also have wires going to it. Ignition Module is located on the fender, and is independant of any computer control. Will also have a vacuum advance on the side. Most common before 1984.
Duraspark III distributors, they have no guts. They are just a rotor inside and some alignment screws. No wires going to the distributor at all. No vacuum advance. Ignition Module is located on the fender, and is dependant on the EEC-III computer system for control. Also has the CP sensor. Most comon on V8s in california before 1984.
TFI-IV distributors, the rectangular ignition module is located directly on the outside and bolted to the distributor. Dependant on the EEC-IV computer for control. Most common on trucks 1984 and up.
hope this helps...