Kroil/aero-kroil and Kreen
#1
#2
Never have, nor had, the need to use "Kreen" in an engine.
Be careful with those kinds of products, as many have strong solvents, that'll strip away any oil film & defeat the purpose of your lube.
Also we don't know what is in these brews at any given time, in what concetrations, nor when the recipe might be changed.
So it's not predictable if, when, nor for how long any product might, or even if it WILL, mix with any given lube, nor what the short or long term outcome would likely be!!!!
Our modern engine oils are a synergistic blend of additives, carefully balanced, such that the sum total is greater than the sum of the individuals, to SAFELY give us all the detergency we need for our engines.
If we come along and add who knows what, in who knows what concentration, we could upset our lubes synergy & cause who knows what kind of mischief!!!!
If we use a good brand name oil in our rides, change it as specified by the manufacturer in our owners manual, for the kind of driving we do, under the conditions called out there , we won't likely need any engine "cleaner uppers" & certainly not strong solvents imo !!!!
I've used Sili-Kroil for over 40 years in my Night Vision Optics lab, for various & asundery things.
BUT, be careful using it around plastcs, rubber, or composite materials, as it can get after some of those things.
Kroil is really meant for use on metal things & it's really good for loosening rusty, or corroded metal parts.
Just some thoughts to ponder.
Be careful with those kinds of products, as many have strong solvents, that'll strip away any oil film & defeat the purpose of your lube.
Also we don't know what is in these brews at any given time, in what concetrations, nor when the recipe might be changed.
So it's not predictable if, when, nor for how long any product might, or even if it WILL, mix with any given lube, nor what the short or long term outcome would likely be!!!!
Our modern engine oils are a synergistic blend of additives, carefully balanced, such that the sum total is greater than the sum of the individuals, to SAFELY give us all the detergency we need for our engines.
If we come along and add who knows what, in who knows what concentration, we could upset our lubes synergy & cause who knows what kind of mischief!!!!
If we use a good brand name oil in our rides, change it as specified by the manufacturer in our owners manual, for the kind of driving we do, under the conditions called out there , we won't likely need any engine "cleaner uppers" & certainly not strong solvents imo !!!!
I've used Sili-Kroil for over 40 years in my Night Vision Optics lab, for various & asundery things.
BUT, be careful using it around plastcs, rubber, or composite materials, as it can get after some of those things.
Kroil is really meant for use on metal things & it's really good for loosening rusty, or corroded metal parts.
Just some thoughts to ponder.
#3
Originally Posted by pawpaw
Never have, nor had, the need to use "Kreen" in an engine.
Be careful with those kinds of products, as many have strong solvents, that'll strip away any oil film & defeat the purpose of your lube.
Also we don't know what is in these brews at any given time, in what concetrations, nor when the recipe might be changed.
So it's not predictable if, when, nor for how long any product might, or even if it WILL, mix with any given lube, nor what the short or long term outcome would likely be!!!!
Our modern engine oils are a synergistic blend of additives, carefully balanced, such that the sum total is greater than the sum of the individuals, to SAFELY give us all the detergency we need for our engines.
If we come along and add who knows what, in who knows what concentration, we could upset our lubes synergy & cause who knows what kind of mischief!!!!
If we use a good brand name oil in our rides, change it as specified by the manufacturer in our owners manual, for the kind of driving we do, under the conditions called out there , we won't likely need any engine "cleaner uppers" & certainly not strong solvents imo !!!!
I've used Sili-Kroil for over 40 years in my Night Vision Optics lab, for various & asundery things.
BUT, be careful using it around plastcs, rubber, or composite materials, as it can get after some of those things.
Kroil is really meant for use on metal things & it's really good for loosening rusty, or corroded metal parts.
Just some thoughts to ponder.
Be careful with those kinds of products, as many have strong solvents, that'll strip away any oil film & defeat the purpose of your lube.
Also we don't know what is in these brews at any given time, in what concetrations, nor when the recipe might be changed.
So it's not predictable if, when, nor for how long any product might, or even if it WILL, mix with any given lube, nor what the short or long term outcome would likely be!!!!
Our modern engine oils are a synergistic blend of additives, carefully balanced, such that the sum total is greater than the sum of the individuals, to SAFELY give us all the detergency we need for our engines.
If we come along and add who knows what, in who knows what concentration, we could upset our lubes synergy & cause who knows what kind of mischief!!!!
If we use a good brand name oil in our rides, change it as specified by the manufacturer in our owners manual, for the kind of driving we do, under the conditions called out there , we won't likely need any engine "cleaner uppers" & certainly not strong solvents imo !!!!
I've used Sili-Kroil for over 40 years in my Night Vision Optics lab, for various & asundery things.
BUT, be careful using it around plastcs, rubber, or composite materials, as it can get after some of those things.
Kroil is really meant for use on metal things & it's really good for loosening rusty, or corroded metal parts.
Just some thoughts to ponder.
#4
What makes you think your Galant needs a enema?????
If your bound 7 determined to do this, why not consider something less active, that'll clean er up sloooowly, kinda like the deposits formed.
So you don't risk breaking a whole load of stuff loose & clog something vital up.
Maybe something like a dual rated diesel oil for one OCI, or maybe something like some Marvel Oil, for 500-1000 miles, then change the oil & filter.
If your bound 7 determined to do this, why not consider something less active, that'll clean er up sloooowly, kinda like the deposits formed.
So you don't risk breaking a whole load of stuff loose & clog something vital up.
Maybe something like a dual rated diesel oil for one OCI, or maybe something like some Marvel Oil, for 500-1000 miles, then change the oil & filter.
#5
Originally Posted by pawpaw
What makes you think your Galant needs a enema?????
If your bound 7 determined to do this, why not consider something less active, that'll clean er up sloooowly, kinda like the deposits formed.
So you don't risk breaking a whole load of stuff loose & clog something vital up.
Maybe something like a dual rated diesel oil for one OCI, or maybe something like some Marvel Oil, for 500-1000 miles, then change the oil & filter.
If your bound 7 determined to do this, why not consider something less active, that'll clean er up sloooowly, kinda like the deposits formed.
So you don't risk breaking a whole load of stuff loose & clog something vital up.
Maybe something like a dual rated diesel oil for one OCI, or maybe something like some Marvel Oil, for 500-1000 miles, then change the oil & filter.
my plan is to run the MMO for about 1k...
#6
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