I pulled codes today. KOEO was 111 which is clear but CM was 211 and 334. The 211 may have me walking but I'm not too worried about the 334. The continuous memory code 211 Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit failure leaves me wondering what to do. Where do I start to fix it? On Halloween I pulled a bunch of hay ride kids around and after long idle in warm humid weather it died but restarted after 3 or 4 minutes and did fine untill the middle of January. After 4 hours of highway it died at the second stop light. Again, warm and humid. This time I just waited about 5 minutes and it restarted, ran rough a few minutes and has been fine ever since. Both times it died just like turning key off. The codes three days after the Halloween failer were identical to today's. Your thoughts on what to do would be appreciated. Everything in ignition is original except new copper plugs and is running great. Odometer 177K miles. New timing chain set, sprout out, warmed up timing between 11-12 btdc.

I suspect the 334 (EGR closed valve voltage high) is a result of my buying different brands of EGR valve and the sensor on top of it. I am ignorant on this also, but in bliss.

 

Responding to my own question but have another question. I remember someone responding to this a few months ago and he gave me a service manual page. I think it may have been fishalot. I finally found my disc and drilled down to a 211 code. I have the same page and it looks like I need to start with plug wires, rotor, cap.

NA1 CONTINUOUS MEMORY DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 211: ERRATIC IGNITION

DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

Possible causes:

-- Loose wires/connectors.

-- Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).

-- On-board transmitter (2-way radio).*

*Verify all radio and condenser installations. Carefully follow manufacturer's installation instructions regarding the routing of antenna and power leads.
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So my new question is "Should I replace original stock wires, cap and rotor with stock Ford or go to Ford Racing" If I go with Ford Racing wires will they fit the wire looms? Thanks

 

I don't know about the Ford Racing products...

But back in October I was pulling my trailer when my Bronco started dying and then coming right back on (like something was shutting off the spark and then turning it back on 3 seconds later). It caused the engine to go from full torque RPM to coast and back - hammering pretty hard when it did it. We'd been on the road for 5 1/2 hours at this point. Then after about 5 minutes of this it died all together and wouldn't restart. After sitting for an hour it started right up like nothing was wrong. About 20 mins later it repeated the same tactics and we were sitting on the side of the road again. Fortunately my car hauler trailer was empty and when my uncle showed up with his Dodge diesel we loaded the Bronc right into the trailer.

After a weekend of screwing around with it at my mothers house (500 miles from my garage), I finally took it to a shop where the mechanic diagnosed the problem as being the Ignition Module - the rectangular piece the bolts onto the side of the distributor. $100+ for the part plus a couple hundred for the mechanic. And I had a complete good distributor on my spare engine at home!

A side note on this is that the mechanic told me with these units that the diagnostic tester at the parts stores would indicate a fault because the module tends to fail when at operating temperature - not when cold.

Hope this helps.

Woodler

 

dwoodler, the symptons sound similar don't they? Shopping the online parts places there are showing four types of ignition modules. Two distributor mounted and two remote mounted. I saw nothing on the distrubitor so the hunt was on. With Haynes help I found the TFI module under the hood, driver's side fender, next to firewall, under cruise control and code check connectors. It is mounted between heatsink fins by the SPROUT. I THINK the Ford number on it is 1SF-1ZA297-C21 so I'll shop for it. Searching the Internet the unexpected dying has happened to many.
Now,as I think more about it, mine died at 60 mph and restarted in a about two or three seconds last year like yours. I'm going to throw a module at it before the wires, cap, rotor purchase. It still may be the PIP inside the dist. but this may be good insurance to have the old module in the glove box as a spare even if it is unreliable. Thanks for your help.

 

I'll hope for the best for you. Let me know how it goes.

 

Alert...If your ignition module is remote mounted on the fender and it has never been replaced you may want to take note. Finding a socket to do it is not easy. I removed the ignition module with heat sink assembly from the fender per Haynes. However, none of my sockets or nut drivers would reach down the small holes in the module to remove the module from the heat sink. My neighbor was an aircraft mechanic and he had nothing to fit. Sears quit stocking the small thin walled sockets. I searched most of the afternoon and here is what I found to throw in you glove box...Duralast 7/32 Deep Socket from the zone fits perfectly. With the dielectric grease in the threads I did not ever attach a ratchet to remove it. So when the ignition module has you walking, finding a $3 wrench may be a bigger challenge than finding a $100 module. BTW, the original Motocraft module was black with grey in the middle. The new Motorcraft is all grey and a local small chain sold it $30 less than the dealer. I should be good for another thirteen years now, especially when carrying the socket.

 

Perhaps Motorcraft improved the ignition module since the '94 model because the engine runs better now with the new one. I did not expect it. When pulling four wheeler to deer lease I now have fewer downshifts from overdrive and the engine sounds crisper, less slugish. Too soon for mileage check. I could use a personal new ignition module to perk me up.