I purchased this pickup about a year ago. It was a ranch truck and somewhat abused. Anyway I have been getting it all fixed up and have gotten to the front-end now. I am replacing the wheel bearings and lockout hubs. The side I started on was very loose and I have it going back together. The problem I have is the wheel bearing nut it is a cupped washer with spring loaded teeth inside it and a notch to fit the spindle groove, and a nut with teeth that mate to the teeth in the cupped washer. They were on the truck with the nut first and the washer on the outside but if I install them this way it looks like the only thing holding the teeth together is the lockout hub. I need to know if this is the correct order or if there is something missing.

 

What kind of lock-out hubs were in the truck. Manuals, 5 cap screw auto, or 3 cap screw auto?

There are different wheel nuts.

 

The truck has manuel lockouts.

 

Look at these images and see if this helps. I guessed at your motor size at 5.0 but I dont think that matters.

http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?i...inghubshm6.jpg

http://img523.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nghubs2tz2.jpg

 

Mine have no spring setup for my 95. I have warn hubs.

I have a spindle nut with 4 notches for the socket.
the first one that goes on has a keyway sticking out for the washer with the spindle keyway, that has holes in it. This locks the first one in place. The second one you put onto that which is just ilke the first without the protrudeing keyway and mashes the 2 together.
Then in goes my warn hub assembly, a C-clip on the center shaft, and a regular wirelike deal on the outside of the hub to keep the hub from slideing out, then on goes the cap.

 

Here's a picture of the manual lock nut.
The lock nut has some letters stamped on it. That side should face the spindle.

To set the bearing preload, you use the special socket with the four prongs on it. Push in and tighten the nut to 60ft. lbs. while moving the wheel back and forth to seat the bearings.

Because of the racheting teeth, as 70ft. lbs is approached, the teeth will start to slip which is normal.
Then back the nut off 180 degrees. Retighten to 15ft. lbs.

Drive the vehicle and then recheck the wheel bearing lock nut torque.

 

double post

 

It sounds to me like he has the racheting nut. That pic is the old and 95-96 manual hub double nut style.

I recently did a 94 with manual hubs that had the racheting nut.

 

Brown 4x4 good catch. The picture I originally posted is for a Dana 50 and 60 with manual hubs.

My service manual doesn't show the ratcheting type lock nut disassembled. I think this is the type he has.

 

Yes it is the racheting type nut and has come apart. The peices were installed backwards and maybe that is why it came apart. Anyway I have a new one and everything is fine. Thanks for the help.

 

when I try to view the above pictures all I get is a black screen ?

 

That post was from 15 years ago, and Mr Alias hasn't posted here in 14 years. I wouldn't hold out a lot of hope.

 

What about the pictures do you want to know? What problem are you having?

 

I’ll jump in with my question. I have been converted over to manual hubs. Drivers side was as expected with 4 slot nuts. Passenger side has the single “rounded” 2-1/2” nut with a weird retainer that I think came with auto hubs. Can I put it back together with this? Or do I need to buy the 4 slot nut set. Bearing was tight before I disassembled. Any guide to install the retainer? Was confused when I took it apart. Thanks, 94 F150 5.0

 

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