How do I convert to use WVO?
#1
How do I convert to use WVO?
I've been around for a bit and know some about both bio and WVO. I initially wanted to run bio, but I don't have the room or time right now. The other day I bought a 105 gal fuel transfer tank that I can use for a WVO heater tank. I can weld and fabricate, so I don't need to buy a premade tank. My question is, do I need to buy a conversion kit to do this the RIGHT way, or can I make my own system that is reliable? I'm looking for any advice pictures, diagrams, whatever I can use that's proven reliable. Thanks!!
#2
#4
Ok there area few ways to convert that truck. The first thing you have to do is not share the stock filter with WVO. It's too big and your purge times will be very long maybe 6 miles. I believe it holds about two pints.
That engine has ports on the block at both ends for fuel lines. Some folks use the back ports for WVO and the front ports or stock ports with diesel. Add a few check valves to keep things in check. This way would require a second fuel pump for WVO and filter of course.
Another option is to fill the stock filter with some sort of plenum. Add a new diesel filter and WVO filter. Use the stock pump and valved it before the filters.
The two above ideas are high level concepts there is much more to it but it will get you thinking.
Do some research on this forum and other WVO related forums. The 2nd gen 7.3 is a good engine to run WVO in. Many have been converted in lots of different ways.
All the kit makers, make a kit for this engine as well.
Erick
That engine has ports on the block at both ends for fuel lines. Some folks use the back ports for WVO and the front ports or stock ports with diesel. Add a few check valves to keep things in check. This way would require a second fuel pump for WVO and filter of course.
Another option is to fill the stock filter with some sort of plenum. Add a new diesel filter and WVO filter. Use the stock pump and valved it before the filters.
The two above ideas are high level concepts there is much more to it but it will get you thinking.
Do some research on this forum and other WVO related forums. The 2nd gen 7.3 is a good engine to run WVO in. Many have been converted in lots of different ways.
All the kit makers, make a kit for this engine as well.
Erick
#5
I asked one company why a baffle was required around the heat exchanger. I was told it was because the unit couldn't heat the whole tank. Is that standard practice, or are they selling snake oil?
Hey LESKWVO- I appreciate the info so far- but was wondering, what are the exact mechanics involved? What kind of solenoid valves are used? Best heat exchanger for my buck (for 105 gal L-shaped tank)? Filters?? Or is it best to just bite the bullet and get a kit?
Hey LESKWVO- I appreciate the info so far- but was wondering, what are the exact mechanics involved? What kind of solenoid valves are used? Best heat exchanger for my buck (for 105 gal L-shaped tank)? Filters?? Or is it best to just bite the bullet and get a kit?
#6
Not sure what they told you was snake oil but a baffle sure can't hurt. But, I don't think it's necessary for the reasons they state. You'd want a baffle for all the reasons any fuel tank might need a baffle. Keep sloshing down.
You need a heat exchanger in a tank to make the oil flow able. SO the goal is not to heat the oil in the tank to the temp the engine needs it to be. The goal it to take the oil that maybe 10F (not to flow able) and warm it to say 70F or hotter if it happens to get hotter.
While on heat exchangers. I feel the best ones are the Hotfox or if you can find one a Hotstk. (I think these were discontinued) These heat exchangers are made for large diesel trucks. They work darn well and there is very little chance you will end up with coolant in your WVO.
The exact mechanics involved is way more then I feel like writing about. Again high level since you can kill this cat a bunch of different ways.
Cut the coolant lines and add another loop, Cut the fuel lines and add in another circuit. Add a valve or two to control the flow and run some or one switch into the cab. If you want fuel level gauges, pressure and temp gauges add them in as well.
You have to be able do some pretty basic mechanical tasks. Be creative and resourceful.
If you are lacking in the creativity area or not to resourceful then go with a kit. All the kits come with good instructions, telephone support in varying degrees, and most of the items you will need or a source to get it from.
I went kit because I'm not one to reinvent the wheel and I liked having a person to call to get support.
I was a plant Drive Dealer. I like the product line. in order
Plantdrive Makes a great kit
FN74 Also makes a great kit
Frybrid Read his forum before you buy form this guy.
You need a heat exchanger in a tank to make the oil flow able. SO the goal is not to heat the oil in the tank to the temp the engine needs it to be. The goal it to take the oil that maybe 10F (not to flow able) and warm it to say 70F or hotter if it happens to get hotter.
While on heat exchangers. I feel the best ones are the Hotfox or if you can find one a Hotstk. (I think these were discontinued) These heat exchangers are made for large diesel trucks. They work darn well and there is very little chance you will end up with coolant in your WVO.
The exact mechanics involved is way more then I feel like writing about. Again high level since you can kill this cat a bunch of different ways.
Cut the coolant lines and add another loop, Cut the fuel lines and add in another circuit. Add a valve or two to control the flow and run some or one switch into the cab. If you want fuel level gauges, pressure and temp gauges add them in as well.
You have to be able do some pretty basic mechanical tasks. Be creative and resourceful.
If you are lacking in the creativity area or not to resourceful then go with a kit. All the kits come with good instructions, telephone support in varying degrees, and most of the items you will need or a source to get it from.
I went kit because I'm not one to reinvent the wheel and I liked having a person to call to get support.
I was a plant Drive Dealer. I like the product line. in order
Plantdrive Makes a great kit
FN74 Also makes a great kit
Frybrid Read his forum before you buy form this guy.
#7
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#8
I have no direct experience with a 2nd Gen. But I've been told the stock pump works fine. Depending on which kit you go with the pump may never see that high a temp.
But, I've read on other forums that at least one guy down in La had a series of pumps die on his setup on a 2nd gen. I've also ready its a cheap pump and not to difficult to change.
Do some searching. If you go with the FN74 system it will require a second pump. Plant Drive use the stock pump, not sure but I think frybrid also uses the same pump. You need to check on this.
If it was me I'd go with a completely separate fuel system up to a point.
New Pump, filter, tank of course, the heating setup HOH, some sort of electric heat, and valve it to not mix. Then you never have to worry about a plugged filter or dead pump leaving you on the side of the road. This is easier to do on the 2nd gen the the 6.0.
Erick
But, I've read on other forums that at least one guy down in La had a series of pumps die on his setup on a 2nd gen. I've also ready its a cheap pump and not to difficult to change.
Do some searching. If you go with the FN74 system it will require a second pump. Plant Drive use the stock pump, not sure but I think frybrid also uses the same pump. You need to check on this.
If it was me I'd go with a completely separate fuel system up to a point.
New Pump, filter, tank of course, the heating setup HOH, some sort of electric heat, and valve it to not mix. Then you never have to worry about a plugged filter or dead pump leaving you on the side of the road. This is easier to do on the 2nd gen the the 6.0.
Erick
#9
Originally Posted by mongo75
I've been around for a bit and know some about both bio and WVO. I initially wanted to run bio, but I don't have the room or time right now. The other day I bought a 105 gal fuel transfer tank that I can use for a WVO heater tank. I can weld and fabricate, so I don't need to buy a premade tank. My question is, do I need to buy a conversion kit to do this the RIGHT way, or can I make my own system that is reliable? I'm looking for any advice pictures, diagrams, whatever I can use that's proven reliable. Thanks!!
Good luck
#10
OK- two more questions to kick this dead horse with LOL. If I were to go with tow separate fule systems, I imagine I could put a T in the fuel line right at stock filter housing? And what kind of pump would be best to pump my heat WVO to the T.
Second (well actually third) question is, if I were just to T the line right before the fuel pump, about how much fluid is actually in the system from the pump to the injectors? I get about 13.7 MPG, so I want to know if I did T the fuel line there, how long would it take to burn all the WVO in the system.
Does a lot of WVO go into my fuel tank when I switch back to diesel?
Thanks!!!
Second (well actually third) question is, if I were just to T the line right before the fuel pump, about how much fluid is actually in the system from the pump to the injectors? I get about 13.7 MPG, so I want to know if I did T the fuel line there, how long would it take to burn all the WVO in the system.
Does a lot of WVO go into my fuel tank when I switch back to diesel?
Thanks!!!
#11
Mongo- I may be a little late gettin in here, but if you are still around, I know from experiance that you do not want to T in prior to the fuel pump. They simply won't last. If the oil is hot enough to not load the pump, it is too hot for that pump, and it dies quickly. Keep the oil cool enough to not hurt the pump, and it is too thick. Still will kill the pump in short order, and plug your filters. In my mind, the ONLY way to convert these reliably is with a complete second fuel system. Meaning another tank, WVO specific pump, filter, pressure regulator and lines. This prevents tampering with the OEM system, and allows for very short purge times. And if done right, is completely failsafe. If you attempt to do this yourself, be prepared to double whatever you think you will spend on fittings, and almost triple how long it will take to do. I consider myself somewhat clever, and it took me three weeks the first time I tried a conversion on my truck. And that was just to get it back on the road. Then spend the next year making changes to make it reliable and debug it. Not to mention a ton of small leaks, a lot of clutter and so on. Buying a quality kit will save you a ton of time, and a lot of headaches. As well as having a reliable rig.
Fordnut74
The Original Vegistroke!!
Fordnut74
The Original Vegistroke!!
#12
Vegistroke- thanks for the input. I've done a lot of research, and your post pretty much said I need a separate fuel pump (I'll check out your site). Other than that I think I got it down. I love the simplicity of a kit, but I honestly can't see myself paying so much for parts that would cost me half the cost. But I will check for pumps on your site...
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